Beefing up a 10R80

[Flyhalf]

There should be, but not many people if any have tested those parts on a road course. More fluid, more clutches and stronger clutch material will definitely increase the life of the unit under constant load and shifting while on a road course.

I know @Flyhalf has destroyed a few stock units on the track and now has a built one but not sure what he's done to it.

Is all about temps IMO.
I have the better clutches kit
a 934 setrab cooler.
A bypass .
Max temps on track 160f.
Technically you can always stop airflow to the cooler if you want to keep it warmer.

I honestly believe the cooler the better for q transmission. Of course a minimum warm up always needed.

Thanks to by pass im considering reducing again the size of the cooler. So i can put a way bigger engine oil cooler.

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[EFI]

Is all about temps IMO.

What's a max temp to watch out for? I've seen a max of about 208-210* before I back off a bit, but it takes a while to get there so I have plenty of time to drive hard before slowing the pace down to cool off.

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

Is all about temps IMO.
I have the better clutches kit
a 934 setrab cooler.
A bypass .
Max temps on track 160f.
Technically you can always stop airflow to the cooler if you want to keep it warmer.

I honestly believe the cooler the better for q transmission. Of course a minimum warm up always needed.

Thanks to by pass im considering reducing again the size of the cooler. So i can put a way bigger engine oil cooler.

Do you know where I can get a bypass from?
I messaged Scott Richardson on IG (@richardson5.0) but he doesn't have any in stock. Thanks

 

[Flyhalf]

Do you know where I can get a bypass from?
I messaged Scott Richardson on IG (@richardson5.0) but he doesn't have any in stock. Thanks

i made it . it is a metal cylinder that substitute the thermostat keep it open everytime. I m gonna make some of them .will post on the big 10r80 thread, when I have them
probably 10$

 

[Flyhalf]

What's a max temp to watch out for? I've seen a max of about 208-210* before I back off a bit, but it takes a while to get there so I have plenty of time to drive hard before slowing the pace down to cool off.

210 is ok. cause thermostat starts open at 190f ish.

dont go over 225 you already start damaging the clutches .

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

i made it . it is a metal cylinder that substitute the thermostat keep it open everytime. I m gonna make some of them .will post on the big 10r80 thread, when I have them
probably 10$

Great!
Please send me a message you if you remember to when you have some. Will purchase a couple

 

[Exploded_Muffin]

Thank you for documenting your work.

When the trans went, was it particular gears only or did you have a more overall failure?

For me it was an issue with 3rd gear. When slowing down the car failed to downshift from 3rd gear and the throttle pedal went dead for a few seconds before the trans sprang back to life.
Also the trans shifted early in 3rd gear at WOT.

Now that I have the new transmission in to compare....the old transmission had a harsh engagement from neutral into drive and odd hiccups here and there. Was also running hotter than this new one and the WOT shifts weren't as crisp.

Generally though it didn't go bad all of a sudden, it slowly degraded up till the point where the 3rd gear issue started happening and that's when I decided to sort it out.

 

[schmeky]

My original trans lost 6th gear, failure in clutch packs D, E, & F. Threw a code (can't remember the code number). Forscan DTC defined the code as "overspeed" in 6th gear.

I reset this via Forscan once the new trans was installed.

New Sun Coast upgrade kit trans is working well, but I don't like the 5-6 shift in the new trans.

I have the Tuning Schools 10R80 programing software and accompanying tuners guide. I have completed the first phase of the tune (with emphasis on a boosted application) and the results are impressive so far. Shifts are quick and positive and I still have the 2nd phase to go through. Torque Management and hydraulics are going to be a factor in helping the 10R to live behind a lot of HP.

I feel if you retain the original factory trans calibration, you are only addressing 1/2 of the problem.

I think the Major Sun Coast upgrade kit combined with tuning the hydraulics and trans for boost is going to produce optimal results

I can't wait to move onto the 2nd phase of trans tuning, hopefully over the July 4th weekend I'll be done.

 

[ice445]

Impressive work sir. I've always wanted to take apart an auto trans, but it's a lot of work and time to learn your way around at first.

 

[schmeky]

I'm in the final phase of trans tuning with the HP Tuners software. All I can say is:

Holy Moley!

By studying the HP Manual and going in progressive steps, the results are most impressive. Since I have a boosted 5.0 I went for the "aggressive" tuning path. Shifts under power are amazing, super firm, aggressive and PERFECT for a boost 10 speed (once you get it dialed in).

But even better, since we don't drive at high boost all the time, I was able to also tune the light to medium throttle shifts as well, you simply use the HP tuning tables in a slightly different way. Not really that difficult to do.

I'll reiterate by saying the marriage of the Sun Coast Major upgrade paired with the HP Tuners software is turning out to be a great way to build a high performance 10R80.

 

[TX-Ripper]

imagine if you had your transmission tuned prior to the rebuild.

 

[EFI]

I did want to comment on the 10R80's mechanicals.

I am more than impressed with the quality of the internal components. Robust, well supported, Torrington needle bearings throughout, and the machining of the gears (ring, sun, and planetaries) and overall finish are impeccable.

Is this on the stock stuff as you were tearing down, or the upgraded Suncoast parts you are putting in?

 

[EFI]

TCM reprogramming as well.

What tuning parameters have you changed with HPT?

 

[schmeky]

EFI,

The factory sun, planet, and ring gears Ford has put in the 10R80 are impressive. Reminds me of a TH400.

So mechanically the 10R is stout.

In nearly all the HPT 10R tuning, they concentrate on trans temps of 95 - 212 degrees and rpm from 5,000 - 7,000.

For the low speed and up driving range, you can select the same trans temps, but on upping line pressure you can go as low as 1,350 rpm as the starting rpm. HPT does not say this in the manual, but you can definitely modify the low-mid range throttle parameters, which makes for some awesome low speed, quick, firm shifts.

Not brutal or harsh, just very quick and positive. I love the feel down low now.

As rpm increases the shifts get progressively more aggressive; incredibly quick and snappy in a very good way. Feels like a sports car transmission.

Trans life should be greatly improved and heat build up in the clutch packs should be reduced with this shifting strategy.

 

[CORNYOTE]

Interested to see how this turns out. I've had a coupe built transmissions by Midnight and they definitely hold up for awhile but would love to start doing the rebuilds myself. I have a spare I keep on hand at all times and a shelf with a couple valve bodies as well ready to go. I currently have a fresh Midnight build with 1500 miles on it and now run a thermal bypass and a power by the hour trans cooler with a 160 thermostat and a bypass button on the shifter so I can turn it on at any time. So far it's been holding 1000+whp fairly well so far.

I've also switch from Lund tuning to Rick Clarke and started running HP Tuners as well and notice the difference immediately. Lund turns off torque management and creates some really brutal shifts. I'm sure it makes for fast cars, but I feel like it's help contributed to the demise of my transmissions. Rick is really taking his time with this tune and I've done probably 30 logs and revisions with him. My spare is freshly toasted so I'll be looking to rebuild it myself.

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