BBQ Tick Fix

[armykyle1 [HACKED ACCOUNT]

Mine had the tick on the factory fill at like 40 miles, thats why I changed it, hoping it would go away but no change. I have a ton of amsoil signature series 5w30 I will probably put in 5w30 next change to see if that makes a difference.

How long did you stay on the factory fill? I run 5-30w because I race a fair amount, same with my 15. I hope this sig series is worth the hefty price tag.

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[accel]

Prematurely draining the initial factory fill motor oil is not the best idea. Modern oil additive packages activate with longer use, to the point of recommended drain interval.
I'm an advocate of Euro spec. oils Group 4 / 5. API spec. syn-3 oils are "Fake" synthetic oils.............
Up to 2017 Castrol Edge Professional oils were labeled as Made in Germany. As of 2018 Edge Professional E is no longer Made in Germany (USA). The color and odor between the two are vastly different. What also interesting is Jaguar / LR switched from Castrol Pro E to Liqui-Moly as factory Spec. oil in 2018. Hummmmmm.

My point, Don't cheap out on API group 3 oils. Run the oil close to the oil change interval so the additives have a chance to activate and do their job. The days of 3k,4k,5k oil change intervals are long gone. Hell, Jaguar / Land Rovers newest 5.0 SC motor has a oil change interval of 15,000 miles when using Edge Pro E 0W-20 (now Liqui-Moly)

So what US sold oild do you recommend?

 

[Andy13186]

How long did you stay on the factory fill? I run 5-30w because I race a fair amount, same with my 15. I hope this sig series is worth the hefty price tag.

1175 miles on factory fill. Changed to castrol edge extended performance 5w20 and amsoil eao17 filter, will do the 5w30 amsoil next I think.

 

[Ghost50]

Here is the vid of my knock on the start up

 

[stangman638]

Here is the vid of my knock on the start up

That's not knock mine does it at start up when cold sometimes.. knock sensors show zero..

 

[Ghost50]

That's not knock mine does it at start up when cold sometimes.. knock sensors show zero..

That's good to know. Hopefully mine show zero too.

It sounds like the other guy in this thread who posted video and mentioned that it could be piston slap.

 

[stangman638]

That's good to know. Hopefully mine show zero too.

It sounds like the other guy in this thread who posted video and mentioned that it could be piston slap.

Honestly I would stop worrying until you rather have

1. CODES THROWN
2. CAR DRIVES LIKE POOP
3. SEE METAL SHAVINGS IN OIL FILTER

This reminds me why I dont use google to look up things when i get sick, according to google i should have been dead a long time ago with cancer, viruses and a whole slew of things i don't have.

 

[Ghost50]

Honestly I would stop worrying until you rather have

1. CODES THROWN
2. CAR DRIVES LIKE POOP
3. SEE METAL SHAVINGS IN OIL FILTER

This reminds me why I dont use google to look up things when i get sick, according to google i should have been dead a long time ago with cancer, viruses and a whole slew of things i don't have.

Ha - that is true. WebMD will have you calling the funeral home.

I just never heard that before. I'm new to Coyote motors (all Fox Body/SN-95's for me previously) so it had me tripped out when I heard it.

My '05 F-150 Lariat and even my '10 F-150 FX4 made knock type sounds at slow speeds, particularly the '10, but I learned that was normal because it was the cam phasers were making that noise.

 

[Toro73]

Here is the vid of my knock on the start up

Yeah a lot of us got that typewriter sound. It is annoying as hell when you have a garage and can hear it clearly when you start it up. I did try Ceratec oil additive and the typewriter sound is not as noticeable any more, only when you rev it a little. Once the engine is warm the sound goes away. Is it hurting the engine? don't know. only time will tell, but so far... just annoying, the additive did quiet it down to not too annoying level

 

[Ghost50]

Yeah a lot of us got that typewriter sound. It is annoying as hell when you have a garage and can hear it clearly when you start it up. I did try Ceratec oil additive and the typewriter sound is not as noticeable any more, only when you rev it a little. Once the engine is warm the sound goes away. Is it hurting the engine? don't know. only time will tell, but so far... just annoying, the additive did quiet it down to not too annoying level

Exactly! In the garage it drives me nuts. But it’s the same as yours in that it doesn’t come back at all throughout the day. Even after I drive it to work and leave it for a day - start up to go home...no sound. Just in the AM on the first start of the day.

I took it in mainly to start a paper trail with the dealer so if it does blow...I can say “yeah I’ve had it in here for that problem”

After I get it back from them and I do my first oil change I’ll add the Ceratec

 

[Toro73]

Exactly! In the garage it drives me nuts. But it’s the same as yours in that it doesn’t come back at all throughout the day. Even after I drive it to work and leave it for a day - start up to go home...no sound. Just in the AM on the first start of the day.

I took it in mainly to start a paper trail with the dealer so if it does blow...I can say “yeah I’ve had it in here for that problem”

After I get it back from them and I do my first oil change I’ll add the Ceratec

Yeap, that's all you can do, the Ceratec worked pretty good, there's another product some ppl have tried, Trybo Tex. That one is expensive. But yeah, get a paper trail, change oil, put the additive and enjoy. If a TSB ever come out (wish I doubt) ill take the mods off, take it to the dealer and role the dice.

 

[Ghost50]

Yeap, that's all you can do, the Ceratec worked pretty good, there's another product some ppl have tried, Trybo Tex. That one is expensive. But yeah, get a paper trail, change oil, put the additive and enjoy. If a TSB ever come out (wish I doubt) ill take the mods off, take it to the dealer and role the dice.

Yessir!

The car still drives great and I love driving it. There hasn’t been a loss of power so that’s good.

I think they put out a TSB for the GT350’s. When I was picking up my plates on Saturday at the dealer I bought it at I spoke to a service advisor and she mentioned how one was out for the 350’s but it didn’t transfer over to the GT’s.

 

[Zinc03svt]

Exactly! In the garage it drives me nuts. But it’s the same as yours in that it doesn’t come back at all throughout the day. Even after I drive it to work and leave it for a day - start up to go home...no sound. Just in the AM on the first start of the day.

I took it in mainly to start a paper trail with the dealer so if it does blow...I can say “yeah I’ve had it in here for that problem”

After I get it back from them and I do my first oil change I’ll add the Ceratec

Mine did not start that sound (much more intermittently and less than yours) until almost 2000 miles on cold start up. Just changed oil @ 3100 miles to Pennzoil Ultra and no sound at all again on cold start. Will see how long it lasts..? But, again not sweating it.

 

[Ghost50]

I'm 90% sure the tapping noise is piston slap. Here it is about a minute after a cold start :



I went out and started a few 5.0s , not all did it, but I suspect thats because they werent broken in or were already warm possibly. A couple did do it but not as loud as mine.

From a thread I found while looking up piston slap

"Here is what a GM engineer told me on this subject..


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you talking about piston slap during the first few minutes of warmup..??


If so...that is what it is. Nothing to fear or nothing really wrong...just the piston noise until the piston warms up to fill the clearance to the bore.

Pistons rock as they cross TDC where the thrust load from the rod angularity shifts from one side to the other. This makes noise. Harmless..but it is the source of piston slap in most all situations.

To prevent this, pistons are designed with long, tapered, flexible skirts so that they can be fitted very tight in the bores when the bore and piston is cold. The taper of the skirt and flexibility of the skirt then prevents scuffing when the piston is hot. Also, the piston pin in OEM production pistons is always offset to one side....it is NOT in the middle of the piston. By offsetting the pin in the piston, artificial thrust load is created to control the piston "rocking" as it crosses over TDC.

Unfortunately, all of the above control techniques, common in past model engines to the extreme, create excess piston mass, cause friction and cost power and fuel economy. With the desire to build in as much power and free-revving capability and to improve fuel economy as much as possible thru friction reduction these design features are pushed in the other direction on modern engines.

Piston pin offset has been reduced over the years to a bare minimum today to reduce the thrust load generated and reduce friction. Pistons have been lightened up considerably by shortening the skirts. This creates less rotating/reciprocating mass which is good for power, free revving capability and fuel economy. Light weight pistons are great but the skirts, by necessity, are short making it hard to make them both strong and flexible and the shorter ckirts make them more prone to rocking.

Unfortunately, when the performance and fuel economy oriented pistons are run cold they are very prone to "slap" until they warm up to operating temperature.

The piston designers and development engineers are always treading the fine line between piston slap cold and friction and power/fuel economy loss when the engine is warm.

It is possible that you are hearing piston noise from an engine that is on the "high limit" for piston clearance so that it makes some noise cold. The good news is that the condition is harmless and that engine is probably a little more powerful (due to less friction) than a "quiet" counterpart. The bad news is that...it makes noise cold.

As an example of what the piston pin offset can do, it was common back in the early 70's to turn the pistons around "backwards" in the large displacement Chrysler engines to gain power. Those engines had large piston pin offsets to create thrust load to control the piston slap. So much thrust load and friction was created that just turning the pistons around in the bores was often good for 10 HP. The engines were very quiet with the pistons in correctly and they slapped like crazy, especially when cold, with the pistons reversed so as to reverse the pin offset.

Racing engines do not have the pin offset and thus the pistons slap like mad...but no one hears them over the open headers...LOL.

The noise is an annoyance but will not hurt anything and the engine is fine.

I don't remember if that engine had full floating pins or not but they can also cause some ticking just after start. Same sort of deal...the "correct" clearances in floating pins will cause clicking after startup for 30 seconds or so. To prevent the start up noise, the floating pin clearance must be kept so tight that the pins are almost press fit again."

I just picked my car up from Ford today and they were of the same opinion. They held it since Monday for this and a couple other things.

I asked to speak to the lead line tech/shop foreman and he concurred with what your friend said about the piston slap.

He said that these motors make so many different noises it’s crazy. But I wanted it documented just in case something catastrophic happens to the pistons or cylinders.

 

[stangman638]

I just picked my car up from Ford today and they were of the same opinion. They held it since Monday for this and a couple other things.

I asked to speak to the lead line tech/shop foreman and he concurred with what your friend said about the piston slap.

He said that these motors make so many different noises it’s crazy. But I wanted it documented just in case something catastrophic happens to the pistons or cylinders.

If the noise is coming from the bottom end, its not piston slap. Piston slap goes away when engine warmed up as well.

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