BBQ Tick Fix

[Andy13186]

Im unsure of the actual point in which the pcm starts retarding timing based off of knock sensed but yes the pcm will, at some point retard timing based off of knock sensed whether false or not.

I get 2* knock, always, and on shifts ive been getting up to -30.5* of timing pulled out, I just logged for like an hour testing stuff. I posted a thread in the 5.0 tuning section

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[gbgreen]

Heavier oil wouldnt make sense, atleast in my opinion because the tick goes away when the car and oil get warm and thinner.. (atleast for me)

Well, as one might expect (or maybe not...), modern automotive lubrication is a pretty complex subject (just try seeing how much of this https://cdn.intechopen.com/pdfs/51522.pdf you can get through before your head starts to hurt). But, assuming the higher viscosity oil actually helps, I thought the explanation of how a higher viscosity oil might help could be the following:

The explanation I heard most often for the problem of engine "tick" was that piston rod bearing(s) were somehow being damaged. Let's assume this is the case.

If one uses a lower viscosity oil, when the engine is shut down, the oil can escape more readily from between the crank and the rod bearing. When the engine is (much) later started ("cold"), then, depending on the method of oil supply, the type of damage done to the bearing(s), and probably a few more things, the (colder, now relatively higher viscosity) oil may not get to the damaged area, allowing some slap between the crank and rod bearing so that the dreaded "tick" is heard. When the engine (and therefore oil) warms up, the oil is now of (again, relatively) lower viscosity, and is able to make its way to the damaged area, providing lubrication and an hydraulic buffer, silencing the "tick".

If one uses a higher viscosity oil, when the engine is shut down, more oil may remain between the crank and the rod bearing because the higher viscosity prevents it from escaping. Therefore, when the engine is (much) later started ("cold"), then there may be just enough oil remaining to have enough of a film to prevent the "tick" until the engine warms, and more oil is supplied.

Taking the example to the extreme, assume you had oil that had high enough viscosity when hot that it was almost like grease. It would certainly remain in the area of the rod bearing that was damaged when you shut the engine off.

Just a theory.
Again, requires various assumptions on what the actual damage is, the viscosity performance of the oil at various temperatures, how oil is supplied to the rod bearings (pressure, splash, etc), and probably a number of other factors.

 

[stangman638]

stangman638 how many miles?

It started when I had about 2300 miles after first oil change.

 

[stangman638]

Are you saying it's impacting timing advance?

I very rarely get it when partial throttle or at wot so I would have to say no. 99% of my knock comes at 20mph or less.. once even had about 1 degree just as I crawled up to a stop light.

 

[stangman638]

I've read it could have something to do with the crank hitting the windage tray?

 

[accel]

I very rarely get it when partial throttle or at wot so I would have to say no. 99% of my knock comes at 20mph or less.. once even had about 1 degree just as I crawled up to a stop light.

I'm just trying to understand if the tick is impacting performance through knock sensors and ignition timing. 'Cause I can definitely (but subjectively) feel like the car has less low end push than it had before.

 

[accel]

I get 2* knock, always, and on shifts ive been getting up to -30.5* of timing pulled out, I just logged for like an hour testing stuff. I posted a thread in the 5.0 tuning section

Can you post a link?

 

[Andy13186]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...-on-shifts-and-always-logs-2-of-knock.110442/

Mine was pulling timing on shifts not on low end, and my tick goes away once the car is up to temperature but massive amounts of timing are pulled on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts in all modes except dragstrip

Can you post a link?

 

[stangman638]

Strange enough it seems the tick has gotten a bit better since I changed out my oil (3rd time) and used PP synthetic... MC 5w-20 seemed like it aggravated the tick the most.. Amsoil 5w-20 did more then the MC for the noise, but the PP I think has done the most.

 

[BigBlue]

Strange enough it seems the tick has gotten a bit better since I changed out my oil (3rd time) and used PP synthetic... MC 5w-20 seemed like it aggravated the tick the most.. Amsoil 5w-20 did more then the MC for the noise, but the PP I think has done the most.

Pennzoil Platinum?

 

[stangman638]

Pennzoil Platinum?

Yes, first time I been though a drive through in a few weeks and didn't hear it.. it seems to come and go, not saying its cured or fixed but I have to say its 100% tied to the oil and lubrication within.

Wanted to use the ultra platinum but couldn't find it locally.

 

[alanpv]

Yes, first time I been though a drive through in a few weeks and didn't hear it.. it seems to come and go, not saying its cured or fixed but I have to say its 100% tied to the oil and lubrication within.

Wanted to use the ultra platinum but couldn't find it locally.

The Walmart site and Amazon have it at the same price ~$24. Pair that with the online rebate and it's ~$14 for a 5 quart of PUP.

 

[stangman638]

Started her up tonight, again no tick, but heard something else.. Will report on that tomorrow.

 

[Zinc03svt]

This will be my first oil change. Under $30 with Amazon rebates. Lol.

 

[texasboy21]

This will be my first oil change. Under $30 with Amazon rebates. Lol.

Link?

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