2018 GT BBQ Tick question---again...with poss scoring

[WOT88]

Just wanted to provide a quick update. Got a call today from dealership; ''normal engine characteristics'' Oddly enough, and you guys may or may not be aware of this, there is a second TSB now to go along with the first that covered ''typewriter ticks'.The new one now covers ''knocking''...

Some 2018-2019 F150 and Mustang vehicles equipped with a 5.0L Engine may exhibit a light to moderate knock type noise at idle (600-700 RPM) that is sometimes described as a quiet diesel type sound. The noise is usually more prominent on the passenger side of the vehicle toward the rear of the engine. As the engine comes to operating temperature, the noise level increases slightly. The noise is not detrimental to engine function and has no short or long term affects on engine durability. This is a operating characteristic of the 5.0L engine and no repairs should be attempted''.

I am not necessarily convinced but whatever. Just picked up some Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 and a jar of Certatech. I will be installing the Procharger and sending it. If it blows up, it blows up....

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[2018GT]

Just wanted to provide a quick update. Got a call today from dealership; ''normal engine characteristics'' Oddly enough, and you guys may or may not be aware of this, there is a second TSB now to go along with the first that covered ''typewriter ticks'.The new one now covers ''knocking''...

Some 2018-2019 F150 and Mustang vehicles equipped with a 5.0L Engine may exhibit a light to moderate knock type noise at idle (600-700 RPM) that is sometimes described as a quiet diesel type sound. The noise is usually more prominent on the passenger side of the vehicle toward the rear of the engine. As the engine comes to operating temperature, the noise level increases slightly. The noise is not detrimental to engine function and has no short or long term affects on engine durability. This is a operating characteristic of the 5.0L engine and no repairs should be attempted''.

I am not necessarily convinced but whatever. Just picked up some Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30 and a jar of Certatech. I will be installing the Procharger and sending it. If it blows up, it blows up....

I have had the best luck with penzzoil ultra platinum and ceratec. Valvoline advanced and ceratec still ticked, but PUP and ceratec doesn’t. I wanted to use the valvoline because it is a thicker 5w30, but oh well.

 

[Daryl333]

I would be livid. That ticking seems to go way beyond B'BQ tick in my mind.
My '17 GT had a tick also.
I know they're different years and yours is probably caused by the plasma coated cylinder bores being out of spec. The tick in my '17 is supposedly caused by bearing tolerances. I used Cera-tec and mine does not tick nor does it rattle at 2,000 RPM anymore. But wow that noise coming from your engine sounds a lot worse than almost all the ones I've heard. I'm no mechanic but that is loud.

 

[RCOLEMAN545]

My 18 literally makes the exact same noise, has since day one. I was told it was also normal. I'm basically part of the "send it" crowd at this point. Ford isn't going to do anything about it.

 

[Daryl333]

My 18 literally makes the exact same noise, has since day one. I was told it was also normal. I'm basically part of the "send it" crowd at this point. Ford isn't going to do anything about it.

The tick in mine pissed me off to no end.
Spending that amount of cash for a car that has a factory defect. I was embarrassed when people come up and said nice car what's wrong with it? Yea I started obsessing over the tick and finally used the Cera-tec which fortunately solved my problem. Good luck with yours.

 

[ktp1598]

Mine has that same knock at idle, just as yours and as the TSB describes. Goes away when I rev any at all. Ceratec didn't help me. It doesn't have that other louder sound you have when revving though. Glad you mentioned the TSB as I was going to take in just to have it documented but I see there's no need now.

 

[WOT88]

The tick in mine pissed me off to no end.
Spending that amount of cash for a car that has a factory defect. I was embarrassed when people come up and said nice car what's wrong with it? Yea I started obsessing over the tick and finally used the Cera-tec which fortunately solved my problem. Good luck with yours.

It was certainly a little embarrasing. I had a few words with the service adviser and told him ''it wasnt a normal characteristic when I bought it''. Bottom line is though that there is record of it now should it fail and should it ever turn into a class action agasint Ford. I'd hate to see that happen since I've been a lifelong and loyal customer of Ford. My first car was a 1994 GT. I owned cobras, lightnings, fusions, explorers, and a dozen F-series pickups. I am not happy with the way Ford conducted themselves in this case. At minimum, they should have done soemthing to alvieviate the sound. I'm aware all these motors tick, but not like the 18 does...They put tons and tons of engineering time into NVH on thier vehicles and this noise was downright annoying. They should have come up with a fix for it, even if it was THEM putting out a bulletin telling us to add friction modifiers.

My 18 literally makes the exact same noise, has since day one. I was told it was also normal. I'm basically part of the "send it" crowd at this point. Ford isn't going to do anything about it.

I am right there with you. I used half a bottle of ceratech and it appears to be completely gone.

 

[JayplaySS]

My 18 did not start ticking until 18k miles. I run a shop in Georgia.

I usually ran 5w20 and on the last oil change it ticked so obviously I was going to sell it for another C6Z. On a hunch I switched to 5w40 and added one bottle of Ceratec as we do to the AMG cars as customers request.

Within a day there was ZERO tick at any temp or rpm range -

I'll use 5w40 again next time but not Ceatec for the hell of it but mine is gone 100% -

My .02

 

[2018GT]

My 18 did not start ticking until 18k miles. I run a shop in Georgia.

I usually ran 5w20 and on the last oil change it ticked so obviously I was going to sell it for another C6Z. On a hunch I switched to 5w40 and added one bottle of Ceratec as we do to the AMG cars as customers request.

Within a day there was ZERO tick at any temp or rpm range -

I'll use 5w40 again next time but not Ceatec for the hell of it but mine is gone 100% -

My .02

Keep us updated on how that goes. I would like to not buy ceratec if an oil by itself would stop the tick.

 

[Condor1970]

My 18 did not start ticking until 18k miles. I run a shop in Georgia.

I usually ran 5w20 and on the last oil change it ticked so obviously I was going to sell it for another C6Z. On a hunch I switched to 5w40 and added one bottle of Ceratec as we do to the AMG cars as customers request.

Within a day there was ZERO tick at any temp or rpm range -

I'll use 5w40 again next time but not Ceatec for the hell of it but mine is gone 100% -

My .02

Same here. I use QSUD 5w30 with 1/2 bottle of Ceratec to subdue the tick. Last oil change I used same oil, but no Ceratec. It immediately ticked. Added a half bottle, and it went away. I noticed the tick is oil pressure sensitive. It goes away above about 25-30psi when the oil pump bypass closes. I really think it's just Lash Adjusters that don't inflate all the way on the far side of the block, and that little gap to the lifter arm starts to tick. I also think adding the Ceratec makes it more slippery to allow it to inflate easier.

I wish there was a way to program the oil pump bypass to keep oil pressure at 25psi or higher at warm idle, instead of only 12-15psi..

 

[2018GT]

Same here. I use QSUD 5w30 with 1/2 bottle of Ceratec to subdue the tick. Last oil change I used same oil, but no Ceratec. It immediately ticked. Added a half bottle, and it went away. I noticed the tick is oil pressure sensitive. It goes away above about 25-30psi when the oil pump bypass closes. I really think it's just Lash Adjusters that don't inflate all the way on the far side of the block, and that little gap to the lifter arm starts to tick. I also think adding the Ceratec makes it more slippery to allow it to inflate easier.

I wish there was a way to program the oil pump bypass to keep oil pressure at 25psi or higher at warm idle, instead of only 12-15psi..

Mine seems to do it the most if the car is warm and has a little time to cool down. It isn’t completely cold. My guess for me is that the block and pistons are not the same alloy and expand/contract at different rates so that is when there is the most clearance between the piston and block. Of course I’m guessing but that is my thought with the piston slap that many think it is.

 

[BlackandBlue]

Do they recommend using 5w-50 with the supercharger kit?

Anyone tried 5w-50?

Mine has tick, 2k rattle, and knock/tap.

Damn race car engines.

 

[Condor1970]

Do they recommend using 5w-50 with the supercharger kit?

Anyone tried 5w-50?

Mine has tick, 2k rattle, and knock/tap.

Damn race car engines.

Yes, many have tried. 5w50 makes no difference.

 

[Condor1970]

Mine seems to do it the most if the car is warm and has a little time to cool down. It isn’t completely cold. My guess for me is that the block and pistons are not the same alloy and expand/contract at different rates so that is when there is the most clearance between the piston and block. Of course I’m guessing but that is my thought with the piston slap that many think it is.

The typewriter tick IS NOT piston slap.

It's most likely Lash Adjusters not being fully inflated when oil pressure is below 30psi at low RPM. Temperature really doesn't have much to do with it. When you start it up cold, it won't tick much, because the cold oil is at almost 40psi during warmup, so the HLA's are fully inflated. Once oil warms up, and rpm comes down to idle, oil pressure drops below 30psi and the ticking starts.

Do you have oil pressure gauges on your car? Do a cold start and watch the oil pressure gauge and also the digital temp gauge and notice when it starts ticking,.

 

[Mustang Tony]

Same here. I use QSUD 5w30 with 1/2 bottle of Ceratec to subdue the tick. Last oil change I used same oil, but no Ceratec. It immediately ticked. Added a half bottle, and it went away. I noticed the tick is oil pressure sensitive. It goes away above about 25-30psi when the oil pump bypass closes. I really think it's just Lash Adjusters that don't inflate all the way on the far side of the block, and that little gap to the lifter arm starts to tick. I also think adding the Ceratec makes it more slippery to allow it to inflate easier.

I wish there was a way to program the oil pump bypass to keep oil pressure at 25psi or higher at warm idle, instead of only 12-15psi..

If its oil pressure sensitive...which I also believe too. Isn't this a case to support oil cavitation? If its the Lash Adjusters as you state...would this be metal on metal contact? If so, many people who have the tick have shown no metal in the oil.

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