BBQ Tick Fix

[Zinc03svt]

No one is talking about this, but the factory oil filter that comes on the car is a generic Fomoco filter. It is much smaller than the FL500S Motorcraft. May be a flow restriction? I’m glad I got it off there at 3100 miles...

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[Andy13186]

No one is talking about this, but the factory oil filter that comes on the car is a generic Fomoco filter. It is much smaller than the FL500S Motorcraft. May be a flow restriction? I’m glad I got it off there at 3100 miles...

I noticed it was small too, but I changed to full synthetic and put in an amsoil ea017 and that didnt change it at all.

 

[CEHollier]

If you research the barbque tick on Gen 1 coyotes it was a very loud intermitten sound that occurred on up to temp engines. Way louded than any of this cold start clicking/ticking. This 18 up sound can be heard lower (behind front tire) and upper engine with hood up on cold start. Again, stop obsessing over warm up engine noises and give your car time to come up to temp before hammering on it.

My tick sounded like a typewriter. It only happened when the engine hit 180 to 185 degrees. Worsened on hot Louisiana days and with AC on. A short block replacement fixed it.

 

[stangman638]

I think here within lies the answer.

Knock occurring at half engine RPM or camshaft speed:
Hydraulic valve lifters are a common source of engine noise. New lifters may take a few minutes to pump up with oil and will be noisy until they are pressurized. A bad lifter can stick or simply be defective from the manufacturer. A faulty lifter can be isolated by listening to each rocker pivot point with a stethoscope while the engine is at idle. Also, a similar noise can occur if you have a damaged valve spring, pushrod, rocker arm or even excess valve lash. Even mechanical fuel pumps can make a similar noise at valve train speed.

Deep metallic knock:
This noise is caused by excessive main bearing clearance. The noise is most audible when the engine is under load, accelerating or when it is just started. Low oil pressure always accompanies excess main bearing clearance because naturally as clearance increases oil pressure decreases. This noise must be addressed quickly because failure to address the issue early can result in a spun main bearing. If this occurs the engine block will need to be align bored and this is an additional charge at any engine remanufacturer.

Sharp metallic rap when releasing or engaging manual transmission clutches:
If crankshaft endplay is beyond the factory specifications this is the noise you will hear. This can be diagnosed by placing a dial indicator at either end of the crankshaft. Carefully pry the crankshaft from one side to another recording the total limits of travel. It’s as simple as comparing that number to the factory specification and if it exceeds then there is a problem with the thrust of the crankshaft.

Metallic rap when the engine is running under a light load:
This is caused by excessive connecting rod clearance. The noise will become louder and will increase in frequency as the engine speed increases. You can isolate the defective connecting rod bearing by removing spark from one cylinder at a time. When spark is removed from the defective cylinder the metallic rapping will noticeably decrease. The combustion is what thrusts the piston and rod downward causing this engine noise.

Dull metallic rattle heard at idle and under light engine load:
Piston slap is the noise associated with excess piston-to-cylinder wall clearance. On some engines the noise can disappear when the piston expands during warm-up. In this case the noise will not affect the engine’s reliability. However, if the slap remains after warm-up, piston or ring failures are possible. In this case, grounding a spark plug will not affect the noise.

Light metallic rap at idle and at low speeds:
This type of noise is caused by excessive piston pin clearance. Similar to excessive rod clearance noisy piston pins are isolated by grounding spark plugs. However, the affect is different than too much rod clearance. Noise from a loose piston pin will actually increase in frequency with the spark grounded. This noise typically occurs after piston rings are replaced due to the additional drag on the loose pin.

While these are some of the most common noise sources, remember that noises can come from areas other than internal engine parts. Drive belts, alternators, compressors, air pumps, and fuel pumps all make noise. This is why it is good practice to first disconnect the accessories and run the engine to determine if the noise disappears. To prevent overheating be sure to only run the engine for a short period of time.

 

[Andy13186]

Im about 95% sure its piston slap now ^ .. Still not sure if I want to leave it alone though since it seems like it could wear on the sprayed in cylinder liner. Guess ill let them borescope it and see what they say.

 

[stangman638]

Im about 95% sure its piston slap now ^ .. Still not sure if I want to leave it alone though since it seems like it could wear on the sprayed in cylinder liner. Guess ill let them borescope it and see what they say.

I dont think its the pistons, I think it has to do with the rods / crankshaft.. we're going to find out soon.

or Light metallic rap at idle and at low speeds:
This type of noise is caused by excessive piston pin clearance.

?

Kinda fun trying to figure this out, like columbo .. on the job! Want to make sure I know what this is before I pump E85 into the tank.

 

[Andy13186]

Mine goes away when warm so their description of that above ^ makes me think its the piston slap. They dont mention the others going away when warm.

 

[stangman638]

I don't think it will cause any harm, way to many people have it and hammered it for thousands of miles and no reported issues... I guess if you annoy ford enough about it and want to get rid of the tick, they just replace half ya engine lol.

 

[Kahboom]

Let's see. I had the tick after the first oil change with I switched to Mobil 1 5w-20 full synthetic, then switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic which was quieter, then Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic even quieter, then Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic with Lucas break in oil additive (lots of zinc in a small bottle), much quieter, now I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic and two small cans of BG MOA additive and so far it's like new now, no tick runs great. Also to mention Mobil 1 at high RPM had excessive oil consumption 3-4 qts in 3000 miles vs Valvoline 0.5-1 in 3000 miles, so far with Rotella it's the same as the Valvoline with consumption only 1000 miles and catch can is empty and no loss of oil so far might be better even. No noticeable difference in MPG from 5w-20 to 5w-40.

 

[Zinc03svt]

I believe many people have replaced short blocks and engines only to have the same tick eventually come back once assembly is broke in. No thanks, unless it is a true failure or knocking at temperature I personally would not go through the hassle.

There is no way an aluminun block high rpm dohc v8 motor cannot loosen up (break in) within tolerances and be mechanically silent. Have you ever heard a forged slug high compression chevy big block fire up cold before? Lol.

Buy a Prius is you want a quiet engine...

 

[Turbolag87]

Let's see. I had the tick after the first oil change with I switched to Mobil 1 5w-20 full synthetic, then switched to Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic which was quieter, then Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic even quieter, then Valvoline 5w-30 full synthetic with Lucas break in oil additive (lots of zinc in a small bottle), much quieter, now I switched to Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic and two small cans of BG MOA additive and so far it's like new now, no tick runs great. Also to mention Mobil 1 at high RPM had excessive oil consumption 3-4 qts in 3000 miles vs Valvoline 0.5-1 in 3000 miles, so far with Rotella it's the same as the Valvoline with consumption only 1000 miles and catch can is empty and no loss of oil so far might be better even. No noticeable difference in MPG from 5w-20 to 5w-40.

u r the second person that i know of that has had his tick completely go away with Rotella. Hrmmmm i see a pattern here

 

[udcvsean]

I believe many people have replaced short blocks and engines only to have the same tick eventually come back once assembly is broke in. No thanks, unless it is a true failure or knocking at temperature I personally would not go through the hassle.

There is no way an aluminun block high rpm dohc v8 motor cannot loosen up (break in) within tolerances and be mechanically silent. Have you ever heard a forged slug high compression chevy big block fire up cold before? Lol.

Buy a Prius is you want a quiet engine...

At least for me the tick seems to be associated with scoring in three of my cylinders, so I’m getting a new shortblock.

 

[stangman638]

At least for me the tick seems to be associated with scoring in three of my cylinders, so I’m getting a new shortblock.

Did you have any metal shavings in oil, I never thought shavings could go through PCV system into a catch can but they did.

u r the second person that i know of that has had his tick completely go away with Rotella. Hrmmmm i see a pattern here

I don't think masking the problem is a proper fix if there is an actual issue. Was damage already done? It would be kinda sorta the same logic as adding motor honey to an engine that burns oil, sure you don't see the smoke coming out your exhaust, but a problem exists. If your car is over 125k and 10 years old I would understand, but if you just dropped 40-50k on a new car and its under warranty take it in.

The problem is the engines are noisy, many noises are normal, some videos I watched people said they had the tick and it was normal injector/fuel pump noises.. I am betting most of these cases that went to a dealer were sent home with their car quickly, followed by car owner saying the tick is normal and dealer didn't want to help them.

Than there is real cases of an actual metallic tick, that isn't normal, owner brings to ford and has parts thrown at it until fixed, bought back or short block replaced.

Everyone hears things differently and no way of knowing what poster is actually hearing or has heard in all cases.

All makers of cars don't want to lose money, and wouldn't authorize parts or many cases half an engine to be thrown into the car, and even buying back, if there was nothing wrong, they know something we all here do not.

Is there any long term effects or real danger of engine failure or loss of power? Nobody knows, could be because I read here guy says tick is normal, says his car does the same thing, he's not worried, but than low and behold said guy got rid of his mustang 2-3 months later, sold off to whoever and drives it, if it fails at that point who knows? Most people don't post stuff online.

Hyundai was recently sued for concealing an engine defect.

 

[udcvsean]

Did you have any metal shavings in oil, I never thought shavings could go through PCV system into a catch can but they did.



I don't think masking the problem is a proper fix if there is an actual issue. Was damage already done? It would be kinda sorta the same logic as adding motor honey to an engine that burns oil, sure you don't see the smoke coming out your exhaust, but a problem exists. If your car is over 125k and 10 years old I would understand, but if you just dropped 40-50k on a new car and its under warranty take it in.

The problem is the engines are noisy, many noises are normal, some videos I watched people said they had the tick and it was normal injector/fuel pump noises.. I am betting most of these cases that went to a dealer were sent home with their car quickly, followed by car owner saying the tick is normal and dealer didn't want to help them.

Than there is real cases of an actual metallic tick, that isn't normal, owner brings to ford and has parts thrown at it until fixed, bought back or short block replaced.

Everyone hears things differently and no way of knowing what poster is actually hearing or has heard in all cases.

All makers of cars don't want to lose money, and wouldn't authorize parts or many cases half an engine to be thrown into the car, and even buying back, if there was nothing wrong, they know something we all here do not.

Is there any long term effects or real danger of engine failure or loss of power? Nobody knows, could be because I read here guy says tick is normal, says his car does the same thing, he's not worried, but than low and behold said guy got rid of his mustang 2-3 months later, sold off to whoever and drives it, if it fails at that point who knows? Most people don't post stuff online.

Hyundai was recently sued for concealing an engine defect.

No they didn’t find any metal shavings in the oil or oil filter. In fact they said my oil looked fairly new (but they’d changed it 7,000 miles ago). Eventually they used a borescope and found the scoring.

 

[Stormtroopin5.0]

With the guys running ultra platinum pennzoil, what weight are you using, 5W20 or 5W30? About ready to change the oil for the first time with my 18 GT (about time to put the car up for the winter with only 1050 miles) and I am in a similar boat with the tick developing around 200miles on the factory fill.

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