B&O 10" sub replacement guide

[TreeFiddyAre]

Ohh and I just snagged the DD Redline SW, the XTR really needs more power not just a larger box. Has anyone weighed all the stock audio components ? So far I have added 5.8lbs with the XTR10" and now the SKAR box is coming I cant see it not being 8-10lbs more so I have roughly 25lbs for wiring and the rest of the hardware including mounting equipment and fans to keep the amps I have cool. I have access to 8mm dry carbon sheet that I will most likely be using as the base to mount the hardware in the spare tire well....its going to be close . Anyone had a link to procure harnesses for say the power wires, signal wires etc... so I can make a quick disconnect for the entire system so in the event I go for "Spirited" drives I can unplug it all and be on my way in OZEMPIC mode ?

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[TreeFiddyAre]

Well I started the process and was able to save 1 of the trim ring clips.

I am reviewing the subwoofer replacement options and the only place I can find the DD Audio SW10-D4 is on Amazon by WoofersEtc. DD Audio has it listed as discontinued. Is there a newer model? I checked reviews for WoofersEtc to see if the company is legit and it appears they are. Anyone have experience purchasing from them?

If I am not able to go with DD Audio, is there any on the list below people have went with and are happy? I am also on the fence of just going with the Pioneer A-Series TS-A250D4.

Polk DB1042DVC 85db
Polk MM1042DVC 86db
Alpine S2-W10D4 84.5db

Appreciate the help.

I'd continue to search for the DD Redline 200 series Specifically 210D D4 if running the stock box and amp. You won't be disappointed. They are around just have to look. I'd add 3-4oz of polyfill as well. Most of there newer models are designed for more power. I have been putting together systems for the past 30 years and I am absolutely impressed with this driver considering the crappy OEM box and amp output not to mention the ridic OEM DSP settings. I did try the Orion XTR in the Skar 1.0cuft box which sounded almost as good, less accuracy and geared a bit more for low output but you have to remove the bracket that holds the OEM box in place which saves you 6lbs . Keep searching , I just checked Woofersetc and that DD Audio 10" isnt the one I am using , look for the 210D D4

 

[TreeFiddyAre]

Well I started the process and was able to save 1 of the trim ring clips.

I am reviewing the subwoofer replacement options and the only place I can find the DD Audio SW10-D4 is on Amazon by WoofersEtc. DD Audio has it listed as discontinued. Is there a newer model? I checked reviews for WoofersEtc to see if the company is legit and it appears they are. Anyone have experience purchasing from them?

If I am not able to go with DD Audio, is there any on the list below people have went with and are happy? I am also on the fence of just going with the Pioneer A-Series TS-A250D4.

Polk DB1042DVC 85db
Polk MM1042DVC 86db
Alpine S2-W10D4 84.5db

Appreciate the help.

Here you go my man :

Digital Designs DD Audio 210-D4 10" Subwoofer – South East Car Audio

 

[TreeFiddyAre]

Here you go my man :

Digital Designs DD Audio 210-D4 10" Subwoofer – South East Car Audio

I'd even give this one a try the 500 series

Digital Designs DD Audio 510 10" Subwoofer – South East Car Audio

 

[jayvicious]

I've just purchased DD Audio RL-PSW10-D4 Subwoofer 25 cm 4+4 ohm and DD Audio Subwoofer grille 10″ from Nonsolospeakers since i'm from the Malaysia. I've also purchased the Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicle.

Most out my choices are from our expert, Joe Gonsalves ! kudos to you for the guidance

Aside from focusing on removing the clip on the 12 o'clock screw. Is there anything i should refrain from making mistake? Any guidance will do

 

[TreeFiddyAre]

I've just purchased DD Audio RL-PSW10-D4 Subwoofer 25 cm 4+4 ohm and DD Audio Subwoofer grille 10″ from Nonsolospeakers since i'm from the Malaysia. I've also purchased the Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicle.

Most out my choices are from our expert, Joe Gonsalves ! kudos to you for the guidance

Aside from focusing on removing the clip on the 12 o'clock screw. Is there anything i should refrain from making mistake? Any guidance will do

Interested on how that one will sound in the oem box , I just looked it up and I didn't find any specs on it minus power handling and its suggested for a ported box. Keep us posted on your findings

 

[jayvicious]

Interested on how that one will sound in the oem box , I just looked it up and I didn't find any specs on it minus power handling and its suggested for a ported box. Keep us posted on your findings

I just realised i did a mistake and time to cancel the parcel before they ship em.. I was looking for
RL-SW10-D4 not the RL-PSW10-D4

Thank you man for making me to avoid the mistake

 

[TreeFiddyAre]

I just realised i did a mistake and time to cancel the parcel before they ship em.. I was looking for
RL-SW10-D4 not the RL-PSW10-D4

Thank you man for making me to avoid the mistake

I had a feeling you did, use the links I posted as they are for the 210/510 series . Good luck!

 

[ManualMindset]

Kicker Comp Gold 10" - https://kickeruk.com/products/cold104?variant=43465021456533
It sounds great. Very punchy and tight.
I have a grille over it now. I designed something in the CAD and 3d printed it.

Are you able to share the a pic of the grille and the CAD file? One of the guys I work with just got a new printer and wants to play with it LOL.

 

[TeamGomez]

... As far as speakers go, I chose air motion tweeters, Dayton AMTPOD-4 from parts express and Sky High Audio SH-35 midranges...

Sifting thru all these speaker install posts and trying to formulate a plan for the mids/tweets up front.

I get the impression that the door sub is actually pretty good so I plan on leaving it alone. But the 3.5” leaves much to be desired an the tweeter is not far behind.

Pls correct me if I’m wrong here, but the way I understand it, both of ‘em are 8 ohm speakers in the 9 speaker premium S550 and they’re run in parallel with a high pass filter on the tweeter. The speakers quoted above are both 4 ohm so if run in parallel, that results with a 2 ohm load which results with an over-driven pair (now getting hit with 2x power).

So are there other portions of the install on these that I missed? I’m considering ohm for ohm replacements (8 each) so I don’t upset the balance/soundstage.

 

[Jackal]

23 MY.

Puny little 1" VC on the stocker. It is nice and stout though, with a decent little chunk of copper. Real surprised it was vented. I confirmed 3.8 ohm per side. Mine didn't have the weather stripping on the box, rather RTV applied to the "sub" itself. Took some prying with the trim removal tool.

I received a non-A revision, but they said the only difference is in the dust cap. 55 oz. double stack magnet. I was surprised to see the Pioneer sub was also 56 oz.

I was afraid the stock amp wouldn't be able to push it, but that seems to not be an issue at all. Perfect match. Much more output, actually feels like it has a sub now. Wifey is happy. Used about 10 oz. of polyfill. The trim ring / gasket fits perfectly inside the raised plastic bumps. The enclosure actually has some mass to it now. Feels about 3x heavier. I used 1 5/8" prime guard drywall screws. Rotated the sub a little clockwise to better avoid the stock screw holes, which I was happy to find that they are all blind and don't require sealing.

It sucks they discontinued this model, but it was imported, so good riddance? I ended up doing sub installs in both of our trucks this summer and decided after 25 years to make a switch from DD. They kept pushing me toward their imported line for less than, I think, 2,000-2,500w RMS, vs. offering to alter the spider pack, etc. like they would have in the past.

I recalled from back then that one of the biggest competitors to the old DD 9500 was the MMATS Juggernaut, out of FL. I looked into MMATS again and was at first disappointed that I couldn't seem to get any replies from them. I later learned that this is basically a 1-man operation and the owner is still at it, for now. I was able to get him on the phone which was nothing but a pleasant experience. He was working on a jetboat at the time, which is also right up my alley.

Long story short, we ended up going with their Jupiter, FL made 1,000w (1,200 RMS) and 1,400w (1,600 RMS) monoblocks, a 15" Juggernaut, and a 12" Monster. We couldn't be any happier, as these are very nicely built and they are super musical. (...and downright nasty.) I was afraid with the Jugg at least, that it would be more SPL oriented as was implied from the late 90's, but the owner/engineer/builder is ALWAYS improving the product line, while completely ignoring all marketing efforts.

Anyway, I wanted to throw this out there as another potential QUALITY option for the Stanger drop-ins, and more. I'm not sure what the mounting depth is on their new LS series, but their AS shallow-mount is US made, and cheap. Their ProCast model is also US made, and cheap, but probably power hungry and might require trimming to accommodate the depth, if it will fit, but they also have a new LS lineup that might be just the thing for this application, although imported. Just remember, you'll have to call, not email. If you're from the southeast and into car audio, you already know about them, or had just forgotten.

You can get good used MMATS stuff on ebay and the FB group if wanting to save money, and I believe they just had a 50% off sale on New Year's.

https://www.mmatsproaudio.com/site/product-category/subwoofers/

 

[Evolvd]

I remember MMATS, and those Juggs were downright nasty!

 

[Jackal]

Still, certainly, are. The roof flex in the 2013 F150 is stupid, had to put a floor to roof brace in and that still didn't get it. The 2017 aluminum F250 takes it MUCH better though somehow.

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

Sifting thru all these speaker install posts and trying to formulate a plan for the mids/tweets up front.

I get the impression that the door sub is actually pretty good so I plan on leaving it alone. But the 3.5” leaves much to be desired an the tweeter is not far behind.

Pls correct me if I’m wrong here, but the way I understand it, both of ‘em are 8 ohm speakers in the 9 speaker premium S550 and they’re run in parallel with a high pass filter on the tweeter. The speakers quoted above are both 4 ohm so if run in parallel, that results with a 2 ohm load which results with an over-driven pair (now getting hit with 2x power).

So are there other portions of the install on these that I missed? I’m considering ohm for ohm replacements (8 each) so I don’t upset the balance/soundstage.

I have the B&O 12 speaker system. So the A pillar tweeter is in parallel with the door woofer, but the tweeter uses a cross over capacitor so no problem with the impedance. The door 3.5" speaker is on it's own channel so again no issue. I'm not sure of the impedance values of the 9 speaker system. There is so much contradictory information on it. All I know for sure is what I pulled out of my car, they were all 4 ohm. Don't get too hung up on it. A speaker's impedance varies with frequency. Look below at the blue line, this speaker is only 4 ohms a 2 frequencies and 1 of which( 5 - 7hz ) it will never see.

Now in the graph below you'll see the benefit of me choosing the Air Motion Transformer, ruler flat impedance with no phase shift.

If you want balanced sound then you need to match the dB ratings.
Say for this argument 90dB @ 2.83V/1M. The way that is called out, is the speaker will reach a 90dB sound pressure level with the amplifier providing 2.83V at a distance of 1 meter. It does not reference speaker impedance directly. This way it levels the playing field between 8 and 4 ohm speakers. Now, even though the amplifier is producing the drive voltage of 2.83V, the amount of current needed is twice as much for the 4 ohm than the 8 ohm speaker. Translation, the 4 ohm speaker requires twice the amount of watts but plays at the same level as the 8 ohm speaker.

I attached the audio diagrams for the 6,9,12 speakers systems.

 

[TeamGomez]

I have the B&O 12 speaker system. So the A pillar tweeter is in parallel with the door woofer, but the tweeter uses a cross over capacitor so no problem with the impedance. The door 3.5" speaker is on it's own channel so again no issue. I'm not sure of the impedance values of the 9 speaker system. There is so much contradictory information on it. All I know for sure is what I pulled out of my car, they were all 4 ohm. Don't get too hung up on it. A speaker's impedance varies with frequency. Look below at the blue line, this speaker is only 4 ohms a 2 frequencies and 1 of which( 5 - 7hz ) it will never see.

Now in the graph below you'll see the benefit of me choosing the Air Motion Transformer, ruler flat impedance with no phase shift.

If you want balanced sound then you need to match the dB ratings.
Say for this argument 90dB @ 2.83V/1M. The way that is called out, is the speaker will reach a 90dB sound pressure level with the amplifier providing 2.83V at a distance of 1 meter. It does not reference speaker impedance directly. This way it levels the playing field between 8 and 4 ohm speakers. Now, even though the amplifier is producing the drive voltage of 2.83V, the amount of current needed is twice as much for the 4 ohm than the 8 ohm speaker. Translation, the 4 ohm speaker requires twice the amount of watts but plays at the same level as the 8 ohm speaker.

I attached the audio diagrams for the 6,9,12 speakers systems.

Thanks for your response here and the audio diagrams.

I fully appreciate the objective sound data as so much of my historical experience depended on subjective impressions of system performance. Stereo shops pitched profit margins disguised as ‘best bang for your buck’ and the ultimate system performance was mostly a crap shoot.

I happen to have a MS in Space System Ops and the sound system analytics triggers some classroom PTSD from the electrical systems design lol (EE is not my forte…I must have been dropped on my head as a child and need to see the crayon drawing to best understand). So while my design intent for the Shelby is not to turn it into a competition winner (it’ll never out do the 5.2 FPC), I want to better understand the realities of sound system design and be able to quantify choices based on the correct objective data vice subjective opinions. Which, to date, I have not gotten my head around.

So off I go down the dB polarity magnification of the 3rd order Fourier transform rabbit hole to better understand what data points to actual system performance (regardless of how much tinnitus/HF hearing loss affects how it sounds to me so I am not the one to judge overall performance). Thanks again for the feedback!

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