B&O center (dash) speaker replacement guide request

[Mike Pfeifer]

I looked at some of those other speakers and not sure if they would fit very well, they look more like they are designed to go in a 2 or 3 way bookshelf or floor standing speaker. Also, not sure about them holding up to car interior (or door) conditions and the extreme temps and moisture levels than can occur. Even if you could get them to fit, they might not last very long.

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[Matthewstorm]

I looked at some of those other speakers and not sure if they would fit very well, they look more like they are designed to go in a 2 or 3 way bookshelf or floor standing speaker. Also, not sure about them holding up to car interior (or door) conditions and the extreme temps and moisture levels than can occur. Even if you could get them to fit, they might not last very long.

Which speakers are you referring to? The ones I mentioned?

 

[NGOT8R]

If you guys see a specific speaker that you like, this place can make a bracket for you that fits the factory mounting locations with properly spaced mounting holes. I ordered a set for the AudioFrog tweeters that I installed in the dash of the 2019 Chrysler 300 that I had.

http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/

 

[Matthewstorm]

If you guys see a specific speaker that you like, this place can make a bracket for you that fits the factory mounting locations with properly spaced mounting holes. I ordered a set for the AudioFrog tweeters that I installed in the dash of the 2019 Chrysler 300 that I had.

http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/

The Mustang isn't listed.

 

[NGOT8R]

The Mustang isn't listed.

You’re going to have to call them if you don’t see what you’re looking for. The can make whatever you need.

 

[Mike Pfeifer]

Which speakers are you referring to? The ones I mentioned?

The ones from parts express is what I was referring to.

 

[Elp_jc]

What about this one?

That doesn't look like a car speaker; look at the holes. And same thing with those $400+ linked above yours. Our best bet will be one of the four 8-ohm ones that somebody else posted. We need something that bolts on the factory holes, and that the tweeter doesn't protrude much, to avoid the issue of the tweeter hitting the B&O grille.

 

[NGOT8R]

That doesn't look like a car speaker; look at the holes. And same thing with those $400+ linked above yours. Our best bet will be one of the four 8-ohm ones that somebody else posted. We need something that bolts on the factory holes, and that the tweeter doesn't protrude much, to avoid the issue of the tweeter hitting the B&O grille.

This might help some on an exact replacement coaxial speaker. Kicker makes one the guy shows the Part number in the video, which is a good video on how to remove the cover. I actually used this method to remove mine and drill a hole in it for my nitrous controller cable.



I think it’s one of the speakers in the link that I posted fromCrutchfield that fits the Chrysler 300, so that should also confirm that the others would fit too, as I suspected.

 

[NGOT8R]

The guy gives his opinion as to how it sounds at the end. He didn’t mention that it brightened the sound any, given that it”s a 4 ohm speaker.

 

[Matthewstorm]

That doesn't look like a car speaker; look at the holes. And same thing with those $400+ linked above yours. Our best bet will be one of the four 8-ohm ones that somebody else posted. We need something that bolts on the factory holes, and that the tweeter doesn't protrude much, to avoid the issue of the tweeter hitting the B&O grille.

Yeah, you're right. Shoulda looked closer.
The Kicker's are discontinued.

 

[StangTime]

Hey guys I have some 3.5" speakers up for sale: JBL GTO 329 I have no idea if they fit or if they will be overbearing as they are 3ohm and 91dB efficiency. If these fit as a center channel, you may need an L-pad or a 4 to 6 ohm resistor in series with it.

 

[Elp_jc]

He didn’t mention that it brightened the sound any, given that it”s a 4 ohm speaker.

You missed a crucial detail: His stock speaker was 2 ohms (he even mentioned that on his video), so a 4 ohm one would sound less loud. Our B&O is 8 ohm, so a 4-ohm would be the opposite... and we do not want that . But yes, I'd prefer a coaxial 3-1/2 8-ohm speaker, and none of the options over PartsExpress has one of those.

 

[NGOT8R]

You missed a crucial detail: His stock speaker was 2 ohms (he even mentioned that on his video), so a 4 ohm one would sound less loud. Our B&O is 8 ohm, so a 4-ohm would be the opposite... and we do not want that . But yes, I'd prefer a coaxial 3-1/2 8-ohm speaker, and none of the options over PartsExpress has one of those.

Yeah, I just skimmed through it and was focusing more on the protrusion of the tweeter, as I know that was a concern of yours, so I did miss that. Take a look at this article regarding changing impedance of a speaker using a resistor. Maybe this may be a workaround for you.

https://soundcertified.com/how-to-add-resistor-to-speaker-to-change-match-impedance/

 

[ChaoticFury09]

Sorry to hijack this thread but it seems like there is a wealth of knowledge in here about speakers to which I have none. I was considering have someone swap the B&O speakers in the car and add in an amp for cleaner and better sound. The rear channels sound so empty that I was hoping it would clean it up. Based on some of the comments it seems that swapping speaker isn’t that easy. Is it not recommended to do the upgrade to a different set of speakers and add an amp?

 

[NGOT8R]

Sorry to hijack this thread but it seems like there is a wealth of knowledge in here about speakers to which I have none. I was considering have someone swap the B&O speakers in the car and add in an amp for cleaner and better sound. The rear channels sound so empty that I was hoping it would clean it up. Based on some of the comments it seems that swapping speaker isn’t that easy. Is it not recommended to do the upgrade to a different set of speakers and add an amp?

Yes, it’s definitely worth it to at least upgrade the mid bass woofers in the lower portion of the doors. I did this with a Hertz DSK 165 speaker set and left them powered by the factory B&O amp. The Hertz speakers also come with a set of 24.3 mm tweeters which fit perfectly in the A-pillars (must hot glue them in) behind the factory grills too, so it looks factory. I do have an AudioControl 4.300W amp running the tweets. The rear deck speakers don‘t bring much to the party either. I actually removed one of mine to serve as a bass port for the 12” JL Audio Stealthbox sub that I’m running. I am using an AudioControl 1.300 mono sub amp to power the subwoofer. My speaker signal is fed from the head unit via a PacAudio AmpPro4 fd-21 amp interface, into an AudioControl DM-608 Digital Sound Processor and from there, into the two aforementioned amps. Stereo sound killer now! Oh and I removed the center channel speaker from the dash altogether and it improved the sound. No negative effects either.

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