Sub Replacement 21GT B&O Questions

[joe603]

I recently replaced my craptastic B&O OEM sub with a dual-12 box. I have a decent amp and Audio Control LC2i Pro. Sounds fantastic with more bass than I'll ever need. However, I pulled out the OEM sub and bracket and I'm left with an ugly mess with the trunk liner trim piece. Those that have gone this route...what did you do? I'm thinking of adding a trunk Mat, which should cover most of the holes...but still some on the side that would be left. I've also thought about just getting another trunk trim piece from a non-sub car. Not cheap.

Another issue I'm going to tackle soon is installing the remote bass control knob. I have it running on the passenger side...need to get it to the lower dash area, where the USB port/AUX power is. Anyone have pics on how that trim is installed? Don't want to break anything...was bad enough pulling the rear-seat side trim out.

Thanks!!

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[StangTime]

How large is the bass control knob? If you are talking about mounting the knob between the USB port and the power port, there is not much room there. The center has a support bracket in the way. The areas on either side can be opened up a little to run a wire through but anything more than that is compromising the rigidity of the structure.

Other people have mounted it in the 12V port under the armrest. Here's a good example:

More details: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/mustang-system-2-0.147905/post-3042900

I have my DSP controller flush mounted but it's designed for that:

Best way to get at these areas are to remove the shifter bezel and the top of the console trim.
These videos should help:

 

[joe603]

Thank you for the reply and the videos! I watched a few this morning and realized that the middle section hides the radio bracket...I wanted it to be easily accessed while driving, so lifting the middle armrest may be too distracting. I've seen some use the sunglasses holder tray; I may go that route.

 

[m3incorp]

I placed it in the center by drilling through that support brace.

I left my stock subwoofer enclosure in so that I wouldn't have to deal with the problems you are encountering.

 

[NGOT8R]

You could always swap out the sub box for a JL Audio Stealthbox which fits in the right corner where the factory sub was.

As for where to route the remote bass knob, I mounted mine here (look in the center of the drawn yellow circle). I used 3M double stick tape and mounted it to the bottom of the steering column trim.

 

[joe603]

I placed it in the center by drilling through that support brace.

I left my stock subwoofer enclosure in so that I wouldn't have to deal with the problems you are encountering.

Man, i like that! So what had to come off to get the RJ-11 wire through the support brace?

 

[m3incorp]

All front dash trim and the radio has to be removed to make room for you to work from inside to out.

Man, i like that! So what had to come off to get the RJ-11 wire through the support brace?

 

[B-Mitch]

I built a little amp and LC2i wall

 

[NGOT8R]

I built a little amp and LC2i wall

I stall is nice and clean! are you setting up for a sub?

 

[B-Mitch]

I stall is nice and clean! are you setting up for a sub?

I installed a JL 12w7 off that HD1200... and the dimming was so bad under hard bass hits that it would make the car stumble.... so I then installed a battery. It took my voltage dip issue away, but at that point the added weight NOTICEABLY killed the snappiness of the car... so I uninstalled everything. lol

 

[B-Mitch]

.... also, the rattle INSIDE the rearview mirror every time bass hit drove me absolutely insane.... I never tore into the the mirror to try to fix it, because I figured I'd break something and it would cost a gazillion dollars to replace it, and the replacement would rattle too

 

[m3incorp]

Yikes , did that sub box and amp/battery weigh over 150 lbs? That would still be about the same as an average passenger. I have over 1800 watts in amp power (JL Audio VX800i/8, VX1000i/1) and a JLw6 v3 in a sub box and never had any voltage issues or lack of snappiness in the car. That HD1200 must be pulling a heck of load or stock battery is just not up to par.

I installed a JL 12w7 off that HD1200... and the dimming was so bad under hard bass hits that it would make the car stumble.... so I then installed a battery. It took my voltage dip issue away, but at that point the added weight NOTICEABLY killed the snappiness of the car... so I uninstalled everything. lol

 

[NGOT8R]

.... also, the rattle INSIDE the rearview mirror every time bass hit drove me absolutely insane.... I never tore into the the mirror to try to fix it, because I figured I'd break something and it would cost a gazillion dollars to replace it, and the replacement would rattle too

l

You should have left it in and dialed the bass back a bit. You did such a great job on the install that it’s a shame to pull it all out. As far as the sluggishness goes, you could always install a power adder to put a little pep back in the car’s step.

 

[B-Mitch]

l

You should have left it in and dialed the bass back a bit. You did such a great job on the install that it’s a shame to pull it all out. As far as the sluggishness goes, you could always install a power adder to put a little pep back in the car’s step.

Hahaha… thank you. I installed the roush Kit with an AED tune on my 2012 when it had 1200 miles on the car, and I swore if I ever got another mustang, that a positive displacement blower would be the first thing I did… but when I got this one (‘21 GT PP), and I looked at the price of the kits now… It simply hasn’t been in the cards.

ya, the HD1200 amp is a very juice hungry animal. It puts out great power, but the R.I.P.s power supply is not even close to efficient. That little stinger battery took care of the problem 100%, so I’m thinking a better stock replacement battery may have been enough. Between the sub, the 1” baffle and 3/4” mdf box with sufficient bracing, the battery, the amp, and the mounts I made… it was well over 100lbs added over the rear end. It’s not just about how much weight, but where it’s placed. You can really affect a vehicles driving characteristics when you place well over 100lbs at one end.

The sub dug super deep, and was obnoxiously loud in the car, but it just wasn’t worth what it did to the handling of the car. I’ll leave the bass obsession to my home theater addiction for now

 

[Evolvd]

I installed a XS Power supercap in my stock sub location and installed my JL Audio DRC-205 in the stock cigarette lighter location.

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