On a high compression modern engine you don't turn them off even if it is getting false knock. You might turn them down but NEVER off.
I have the entire email thread I can forward. I was never asked permission to change knock sensors. We had tried changing cat back exhaust, made sure headers weren't touching, tried only 12 degrees of timing, added an entire can of boostane professional. Knock would not go away.
I feel its a FAR better idea to chase it down. If they are sure its false knock, SOMETHING is causing it. Find it.
I think 600 is pretty conservative. 700 even seems to be the "normal" easy number people go for on a regular street car. 800 seems to be that number where you should go E85.
So I was partially correct, there was false knock coming from somewhere, but rather than be very explicit with you about silencing them artificially, they just did it on their own (which again, is very out of character for most reputable tuners).
I combed my entire car over for over a year chasing false knock. I even started resorting to trying crazy things that I knew couldn't possibly be causing it but I was desperate. Lund reviewed logs way after the tuning window was over and kept trying to help. They finally told me they could desensitize the knocks if I wanted but I'd be responsible for making sure I had enough octane. Eventually I went that route and wish I had sooner. Car never misses a beat now and I've pushed it as far as 11lbs to date and i push it often. I do run 14-16oz of boostane in every tank and 14gal/hrs of meth starting at 6lbs of boost though so I'm guessing around 98oct on a pump gas tune.
But something physical HAS to be causing it right? I just have a hard time believing "ghost knock". Just like ghosts in real life, they dont exist. Something has to be hitting/taping somewhere thats making its way down the drivetrain to the knock sensors though right?
WARNING: your actual octane is 3.5 points less than marked at the gas pump.
Curious if that's a fact, a hypothetical assumption, or a rule of thumb assumption used to make a smart and safe decision while tuning. Kinda like saying "there's no such thing as an unloaded gun" when speaking on the context of gun safety.
If you'd like to prove ghost knock doesn't exist I'd gladly let you throw money at my car to prove it.
Maybe it's the turbos, tranny? Hell the engine has 85k so maybe that's the cause? Everything else has been replaced or inspected multiple times.Knock is not a mythical creature. A setup can be created to find the source of the sound. I haven’t chased knock in many years but before the smart days(GN days), microphones were used to find it. For the coyote it looks like the knock frequency should be around 6.18khz. Putting a few microphones on the engine and exhaust would get you a pretty good indication of where the sound was coming from and what particular sound was causing the overlap.If you'd like to prove ghost knock doesn't exist I'd gladly let you throw money at my car to prove it.
These discussions are typical of the car community. I'm sure you're a very experienced wrench. But it's complete hubris to assume that everything is solveable (just because you've solved something on YOUR cars in the past). I've known some guys who were VERY experienced in dealing with issues, chase and chase and replace and replace only to come up short in why the car was still reading knock (when they KNEW it was false.)