Has anyone broke an aluminator?

[justinjohnson]

I'm trying to find out how much power an aluminator can handle?

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[Burnin4]

If the tune is good then an aluminator will handle 1000whp. You'll need sleeves if you want to go higher. Id go with an MPR shortblock before going with an aluminator, less money and higher quality.

 

[jhatley7]

If the tune is good then an aluminator will handle 1000whp. You'll need sleeves if you want to go higher. Id go with an MPR shortblock before going with an aluminator, less money and higher quality.

Agree on sleeves and MPR but I think [MENTION=13339]olaosunt[/MENTION] has burned an Aluminator under 1000.

My factory motor held around 900ish.

 

[olaosunt]

:frusty:Yup
Mid 900's .Hole in piston #8
There is a picture on here some where .

Heat related and may have been the tune .

My latest misadventure with a built block (non sleeved ) with water jacket supports .
Ended up with a crack in the valley around knock sensor.

My former "Hellion bro " with the yellow convertible made north of 1000 and several low 9 second@150 mph passes with an alluminator before he sold it .
How long would it have lasted ?
Who knows ?
I would not bother with anything not sleeved .

Not worth the risk and gets more expensive when you end up replacing motor 2-3 times especially when you are paying labor .
Ask me how I know ?
:frusty:
Lol

 

[olaosunt]

I don't know if sleeving would have prevented crack in valley though .
MMR sells a brace for that now .
I laughed before thinking it was snake oil but my new block comes with it and at least it won't hurt (.they think my sleeve supports did )

 

[Reds197]

:frusty:Yup

My latest misadventure with a built block (non sleeved ) with water jacket supports .
Ended up with a crack in the valley around knock sensor.
:frusty:
Lol

I had exact same shit!! Now Im getting a sleeved block. I guess the supports cause this but I never heard about it until after.

Only upgrade is a sleeved block. I have learned the hard way to.

 

[olaosunt]

I had exact same shit!! Now Im getting a sleeved block. I guess the supports cause this but I never heard about it until after.

Only upgrade is a sleeved block. I have learned the hard way to.

Really ?
same thing with crack in the valley?

Here is the alluminator

 

[olaosunt]

I found that cylinder wall was also pitted.

Only way to reuse it is to sleeve(which I plan to eventually so I have a spare block)

I may be able to replace the one piston as all the rest are fine as were the rods.

I am more likely to reuse the internals from the block that cracked in the KB car

 

[doodguy]

I don't know if sleeving would have prevented crack in valley though .
MMR sells a brace for that now .
I laughed before thinking it was snake oil but my new block comes with it and at least it won't hurt (.they think my sleeve supports did )

Any links/ info on this brace? Pics of crack on valley? What were symptoms? Wondering if I should pull whipple and look

 

[tsloms]

Would this brace be low enough to clear a Whipple sitting in the valley?

 

[olaosunt]

They told me it would .
I will find out if that's true soon enough .It now comes standard on there 1500 and 2000 hp blocks .
http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...page=product_info&cPath=26_27&products_id=980

 

[olaosunt]

Any links/ info on this brace? Pics of crack on valley? What were symptoms? Wondering if I should pull whipple and look

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...page=product_info&cPath=26_27&products_id=980

The crack is not visible but when you pressure test(or just running the car eventually) the coolant system you see coolant leaking .
Mine was leaking around the drivers side knock sensor.

I had been having what I thought was a false knock situation and ended up turning down the sensitivity of sensors -it could have been the start of the cracking .
I started losing coolant slowly at first and was chasing other sources .
I then started seeing more "white smoke/steam" than usual.
The coolant started leaking outside the engine eventually .
When we pulled the blower intake you could see it leaking in the valley.

 

[olaosunt]

I have pics of the coolant looking around the sensor in the KB thread.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64825&page=5

 

[doodguy]

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...page=product_info&cPath=26_27&products_id=980

The crack is not visible but when you pressure test(or just running the car eventually) the coolant system you see coolant leaking .
Mine was leaking around the drivers side knock sensor.

I had been having what I thought was a false knock situation and ended up turning down the sensitivity of sensors -it could have been the start of the cracking .
I started losing coolant slowly at first and was chasing other sources .
I then started seeing more "white smoke/steam" than usual.
The coolant started leaking outside the engine eventually .
When we pulled the blower intake you could see it leaking in the valley just running the car .

Interesting! I was having the false knock deal. Turned down sensors as well because my false knock was directly related to rpm where whipple started screaming. Did compression test was fine. No coolant leaking. I will pull blower to check soon as ill also be upgrading cams.

I don't think that mmr block support would fit with whipple from looks of it.

 

[olaosunt]

I am hoping it works with the KB but we will see .

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