Aluminator Failure

80FoxCoupe

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Bone stock aluminator. 93 octane with a bottle of boostane shot every fill up. I never let the tank get below 1/4 before I top if off and add another bottle of boostane shot.

I don't have any e85 stations near me, thus why I asked for a tune that would be safe for 96 octane.

I'm still waiting to hear back from Holbrook for the quote to repair, but I did ask about doing ARP head studs, cometic head gaskets, and total seal rings for the rebuild. I'm hoping those and a hone job will get it back together and not require new pistons.
So stock TTY head bolts amd stock head gaskets correct? Lifting the head(s) at 800whp on pump gas is not surprising to me. Actually surprised it lasted that long. Blaming the tune would be speculation. I dont know shit about tuning so i have no opinion on that.





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I don't have any e85 stations near me, thus why I asked for a tune that would be safe for 96 octane.
IMO this time you ask for a safe tune for 91/93 whatever you have in your area. Octane booster is only used as a safety net. NEVER base a tune off of using octane boosters.
 

K4fxd

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Blaming the tune would be speculation. I dont know shit about tuning so i have no opinion on that.
I've been looking at a lot of FI tunes and none have more than 15 degrees of timing on pump gas.
 
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IMO this time you ask for a safe tune for 91/93 whatever you have in your area. Octane booster is only used as a safety net. NEVER base a tune off of using octane boosters.
I agree.

I was given 3 tunes

16 timing for 93
18 timing for 93
21.5 timing for 96

Most of the time I would use the 18 timing or 16 in the winter when I had my all seasons on. The 21.5 was only used at the track or on dyno. Id guess I have maybe 2 dozen dyno pulls and 1/4 passes on the aluminator.

What would be the most timing you would run with a 3.5 pulley with straight 93?
 

80FoxCoupe

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I've been looking at a lot of FI tunes and none have more than 15 degrees of timing on pump gas.
No offense, but that doesn't mean a whole lot.
 

K4fxd

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No offense, but that doesn't mean a whole lot.
You are right, but if the top tuners stop at 15 and raise the knock sensor sensitivity, I take notice.
 

K4fxd

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To me this boils down to...

The tuner claimed false knock, but did nothing to verify this. (According to the OP and the information given to us)

The tuner sent a revised tune and all knock stopped.

12,000 miles later there is knock related damage to the engine.

The tune is locked so we will never know what was done as far as removing the "false knock"

To be fair we don't know if the OP drove without octane booster.

But 21 seems like a lot of timing for 96 Octane and boost.

If we go by the 1 degree per octane point and use 15 as a safe timing number at 93 we get 18 degrees at 96.

Just some pondering, I may be in left field without a glove.
 
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stang17

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To me this boils down to...

The tuner claimed false knock, but did nothing to verify this. (According to the OP and the information given to us)

The tuner sent a revised tune and all knock stopped.

12,000 miles later there is knock related damage to the engine.

The tune is locked so we will never know what was done as far as removing the "false knock"
Stock motor 12,000ish miles- snapped crankshaft.

Aluminator was put in and now I'm just a hair over 18,000 odometer....so roughly 6,200 miles only.

We went through several revisions early on trying to get the cruise control to work with the calimer stage 3 gear ratios. After I had put a few hundred miles on new motor (round trip from PA to ocean city Maryland for a weekend trip) and doing the partial throttle/idle logs we strapped it down on the dyno to start WOT pulls. Even at low timing we were getting knock. A change was made, knock went away and made a few pulls on dyno gradually adding more timing until it stopped making any additional power.

Car never burnt any oil, catch can never had excessive build up, coolant was good. No noticeable smoke out of the exhaust. Car ran perfect with smooth partial throttle and good idle characteristics.
 
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stang17

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But the consensus is I was given too much timing for 96 octane and that the knock sensors were desensitized to the point where the cpu wasn't detecting actual knock or pulling timing and thus why motor started to take a shit after only a few thousand miles.

I still plan on working with PBD in the future once my engine is repaired, just disappointed how things panned out.

I bought the car new from the dealer which they gave me a 3yr warranty. I snap the crank literally 8 days after my 3 years were up. Fair play, but got held holding the bag of what to do as I still owed money on the car. FWIW I paid $54k for 2017 fully loaded PP car with all options less adaptive cruise and recaros(i wanted cooled seats), the whipple, magnaflow comp cat back, lowering springs, and steeda stop the hop kit all wrapped into the financing.

Work had been offering overtime for the past 3 years non stop and I was making decent extra money, so I splurged for the aluminator, and remainder of parts in my signature.

Then COVID happens and all overtime was taken away, which limited how much I can chip away at my balance.

Now this happens and it just sucks. Im hoping that Holbrook can get me back together for a reasonable price as I'm about to beat my credit card into submission lol.

It is what it is.

I appreciate everyone's input.
 

Basspro302

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Sorry op lesson learned tho boostane and 93 are a gamble. Seems like alot of timing for that pulley and 96.
Maybe just run a safe 93 tune and get one for some real race gas.
I suspect the boostane didn’t mix and you got straight 93 on some hits and with that pulley and timing thats all she wrote.
 

K4fxd

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Even at low timing we were getting knock. A change was made, knock went away and made a few pulls on dyno gradually adding more timing until it stopped making any additional power.
This is what causes me to scratch my head. If it was false knock what could a tune do to stop it?

The only answer I can come up with is to desensitize the knock sensors. This is 100% wrong. Even if it was proved to be false knock. IMO you find what is causing the false knock and fix it.
 

BlackandBlue

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It is hard to believe PBD would shut off or reduce the main safety system on a car running mixed 93. E85 I could believe.

820hp on 96 octane is going to net some knock though.
 

NotagainV2

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The tuners always wrong........ Running north of 800whp on ANY pump gas is insane and asking for trouble. I dont care if its octane 5000 shoulda been on e85 if you want to party north of 800.

Some of you b1tch and blame the tuners left and right but never stop and think pump gas and swinging for the fences isnt very bright...........
 

NotagainV2

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Bone stock aluminator. 93 octane with a bottle of boostane shot every fill up. I never let the tank get below 1/4 before I top if off and add another bottle of boostane shot.

I don't have any e85 stations near me, thus why I asked for a tune that would be safe for 96 octane.

I'm still waiting to hear back from Holbrook for the quote to repair, but I did ask about doing ARP head studs, cometic head gaskets, and total seal rings for the rebuild. I'm hoping those and a hone job will get it back together and not require new pistons.
No e85 near by? LOL I bet buying it in barrels or some ethanol1 is FARRRRR cheaper than building engines.

You are insane running 800+ on pump.
 

NotagainV2

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Rob and his infinite wisdom was wrong. REAL KNOCK. So as said, he either shut em off, or desensitized the fuq outta the knock sensors. I wouldn't let that clown tune a big wheel. Also, hoped you learned ur lesson with the whole 'max effort supercharged pump gas bullshit'. It never works out.
Your never ending bashing of tuners is pretty sickening.

You dont think one ounce of the OPs responsibility is the insane choice to run pump gas on a 800+ hp setup?

Run along your constant crying about tuners is old.
 

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