Adding Active Exhaust on 2018 GT

Discussion in 'V8 5.0L Engine / Mods: Bolt-ons, Exhaust, Tuning' started by evan546, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. ponyv6

    ponyv6 Well-Known Member

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    any update? thanks!
     
  2. Sc1850

    Sc1850 New Member

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    Just bought my 18 without, have had an Active exhaust system tucked away for 7 months, going to be putting it on new car. At minimum, I'll switch valve to "Track" and run loud all the time. I would like to use the mode switching if possible, but don't have to. Will post any updates as they happen.
     
  3. Andy13186

    Andy13186 Well-Known Member

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    just get electric cutouts..
     
  4. Bybcous

    Bybcous Well-Known Member

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    There is a thread somewhere on the forum, it has been done and you can use factory modes to switch exhaust notes. It's a huge thread and some cars have the factory connection already installed so all you need are the mufflers.
     
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  5. ehazel

    ehazel Member

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    #25 ehazel, Jan 18, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2019
    Thread:
    https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/

    If you have the plug based on this post its super easy (plug and play + forscan edit) to install. If not its a little more difficult.
    Plug location:
    https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aust-install-guide.101913/page-3#post-2234512


    If you dont have the plug make sure to read all the way through that thread as there are wiring diagrams, plug pinouts, wire gauges, etc.

    Here are some key posts:

    Signal:
    https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-active-exhaust-install-guide.101913/page-12#post-2388973

    Power:
    https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ust-install-guide.101913/page-15#post-2422428

    I added active to my car following that thread. You have to read all the way through as its original thread got off topic and switched to installing to 2018 cars. I didn't have the plug so I had to make my own harness to tap into the wiring in the Driver(Signal) and passenger(Power) footwells.
     
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  6. Bybcous

    Bybcous Well-Known Member

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    Did you make a guide for what you did ? the schematic pictures have me lost lol
     
  7. HopfibreSn

    HopfibreSn Active Member

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    I'm in the same boat, do not have the plug. It would be much appreciated if someone made a write up for the non plug cars.
     
  8. ehazel

    ehazel Member

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    #28 ehazel, Jan 18, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2019
    Dont let the schematic scare you away, the majority of that is existing or apart of three harnesses you will buy in addition to the mufflers. I did an edit to the diagram. Here is a brief overview, Ill try to put together all the specific details when I have some spare time.

    The wiring from the PCM and Power all terminate inside the cabin. There are two multi pin connectors where the wires end and need to be extended back to the trunk.

    The Y Harness is what would have connected to the missing plug underneath the car. There are two extension harnesses that plug into the Y and each goes to one muffler. You CAN wire this up without the Y connection but I felt It was easier than wiring everything directly into the mufflers (Or Muffler extensions).

    The Y Harness has Six wires going into it.
    Five need to be pulled from the front footwells consisting of:
    - Four signal wires from the drivers footwell.
    - One power wire from the passenger footwell.

    The final wire is ground and there is a perfect spot in the trunk to grab from.


    Wiring info.jpg
     
  9. ehazel

    ehazel Member

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    #29 ehazel, Jan 19, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2019
    This is by no means a step by step how to. Mainly consolidated information from the other thread and photos of my sketchy half assed(for now) installation. Please read through the other thread to get a full understanding and verify before proceeding. Thanks to Fishtail, Rock50, and others for putting in the hard work of tracking down information and tracing wiring from the pcm and fuse box to the passenger cabin.

    Major Parts:
    JR3Z-5230-FA - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE
    JR3Z-5230-FB - Muffler - DOUBLE CHECK THESE - It Looks like Ford might have changed part numbers for the mufflers
    JR3Z-14A411-H - Actuator/Extension Harness - Need Two
    JR3Z-14A411-J - Y Harness

    Wiring:
    Signal: I found a 4 conductor 22awg shielded cable at my local Fry's electronics, 50ft for about $12. Similar to the link below.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/25-4-Condu...d-25-Foot-Length-4C-22AWG-S2204-/263651685640

    Power+Ground: I used off the shelf Autozone 18awg in Red and Black.
    Taps:
    Signal wires being tapped are 20awg (I used 20-22awg tap)
    I dont recall the size of the power wire but I used a 14-16 awg tap
    Spades: I used the 22-18awg spades and they didn't want to crimp to the 22awg signal wires due to small size. (It could have been my crimp tool, but be prepared to solder just in case)
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-pc-3M-...DE/381858397493?hash=item58e888bd35:rk:4:pf:0

    Forscan:
    IPC module if you have a standard cluster. (The digital cluster might be different check the forscan spreadsheets in the DIY section)
    Inactive code: 720-10-01 0xxx xxxx xxxx
    Active code: 720-10-01 2xxx xxxx xxxx


    Here is the super super simplified diagram I made to keep myself organized when connecting things together. The original diagram and my medium simplified version are available earlier in this thread.
    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GR1EKLwP0vdrvnphMZ16YencGahA1QZYI7Yxr2gNZvY/edit?usp=sharing

    I have been unable to source the correct pins to add to the missing side of the connector so I T tapped the wires just before the connector for both power and signal. I Had a similar issue sourcing the main connection on the Y harness so I ended up cutting it off and soldering on 3m waterproof spade connectors on each wire. My end goal is that I can find the correct pins/connectors in the future and have a near factory install.

    To route the cabling I used the Install guide for Roush's active exhaust. You will need to tear apart most of the drivers side interior and that guide made it 10x easier than guess work. I routed my power under the dash over to the drivers side so I didn't have to tear the passenger side apart.(You can see both the red wire and signal going into a black bundle in the photo below)
    https://www.roushperformance.com/media/parts/manuals/422100-instructions.pdf


    The Y Harness has Six wires going into it.
    Five need to be pulled from the front footwells consisting of:
    - Four signal wires from the drivers footwell.(GY, WH-BU, BN-GN, BU-GN) Pins 1-4. I attached the connector pinout diagram.
    Signal Wires.jpg
    - One power wire from the passenger footwell.(VT-BN) Pin 2
    Power (Passenger Footwell).jpg
    The final wire is ground and there is a perfect spot in the trunk to grab from. (Bolt with black wire)
    20190119_213719 - Copy.jpg

    Here is the Y Harness(Under the rear were the factory plug would be.) Its main connector I replaced with waterproof spades then shrink-wrapped.
    20190119_213446 - Copy.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  10. acemastr

    acemastr Well-Known Member

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    Can you confirm this works with the mode changing on the dash?
    I'm missing the relay and power to the exhaust but I have the cable at the back.
     
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  11. NotMarc

    NotMarc Well-Known Member

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    Thank you so much for this. I am going to pick this back up as a project now that it looks like this is really doable.

    I would love to know this as well. ^^ What is your full exhaust system and how is it performing?
     
  12. ehazel

    ehazel Member

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    It works as if it was optioned at the factory. Both the manual (within the settings in the gauge cluster) and changing drive modes operate the AE. Quiet start also functions normally.(This is a life saver if you do a resonator delete) I set the quiet start to 12 too 12 so it always starts in quiet mode. If you want a rowdy cold start You can start in track mode via powering the accessories then changing to track in the gauge cluster before turning the car over.

    The only non Ford part I am running on my exhaust (apart from my wiring) is a Steeda x pipe. I am super happy with the results and have no plans to make any more changes. The sound output range is incredible between quiet and track + It sounds borderline exotic at high revs in sport+ or track mode.

     
  13. acemastr

    acemastr Well-Known Member

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    Since I have the connector at the rear, should I just be able to pull power to it like you did?
     
  14. 50racer

    50racer Well-Known Member

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    if you have a 2019 which it looks like you do, it may not be 100% plug and play with forscan. if you read through the entire 24 pages of the existing thread there are some people that have 2018/2019 and done plug and play, others that had to go to dealer for some other programming, and others that couldn't get it done. That said I do a 2019, I have the plug in back and the relay and fuses already in the fusebox. I just ordered the harnesses needed. I am waiting on a new ODB adapter that has the MS CAN switch because my existing one didn't have it and I couldn't modify the IPC module (which is required). Once I have those items in this week sometime (hopefully) I will be attempting the activation in the dash and verifying the voltages back at the plugs before I purchase mufflers. I also am only purchasing the actuators I have no intention of using the stock mufflers, so I will be getting a BORLA or CORSA system once I know it will work. I will keep everyone posted once I get further.
     
  15. ehazel

    ehazel Member

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    If you have the rear connector you shouldn't need to pull anything.(Maybe just add the fuse and relay?) You have the exact opposite issue as me, I didn't have any AE wiring or connectors past the foot-wells. Your issue is (as you are missing the relay/fuse/terminals) we don't know if you are wired from ecu/power TO the foot-wells (and then onto the rear connector)

    If I was in your position I would start with checking the connectors in the foot-wells to make sure power and signal wires are continuing past those connectors.(Mine had the wires on front side of the connector and the rear side didn't have a wire continuing to the rear of the car) (Just verify one wire in one wire out for all the listed wires)
    If so I would then check for power at the rear connector. (12v Power is a violet wire with a brown stripe, ground is a blackwire with a yellow stripe. Verify that with the wiring diagram) If it has power I would think it also has signal.(I don't know of an easy to to make sure you are getting the pwm signal to the rear connector short of an oscilloscope or buying everything and plugging in to test.)

    As 50racer said, I would read that thread and see what issues others have ran into with the MY19s.
     
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  16. acemastr

    acemastr Well-Known Member

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    Bit of an update, added power to the rear connector, adjusted 720-04-01 and 720-10-01 and still no valve movement.

    Going to see if Ford will help me change PCM settings
     
  17. 50racer

    50racer Well-Known Member

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    If they do anything to get it to work please see if they will tell you what they changed. Thank you and good luck. I just got my harnesses yesterday. Wont get my new obd2 adapter till Monday.
     
  18. acemastr

    acemastr Well-Known Member

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    First Ford dealer didn't know how to do it, not sure how much effort they put in. I'll go to the others and speak to someone.
    "You'll need someone with an aftermarket programmer to do it" is what he said... he clearly didn't know.
     
  19. acemastr

    acemastr Well-Known Member

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    3 dealers down, "It can't be done" over and over... why are dealers so hard to work with
     
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