2020 New Voodoo Big Booboo- Engine Replacement Experience

[orangegrower]

Don't know where your getting your info but my dealer, Banner Ford, Covington, LA has a black GT350R for $3K below invoice. They would probably do better than that since they've had it for a half a year or more.

He wants Line only.

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[Montoya]

Don't know where your getting your info but my dealer, Banner Ford, Covington, LA has a black GT350R for $3K below invoice. They would probably do better than that since they've had it for a half a year or more.

I’m not suggesting that all R’s are over invoice, just that the only 2 available Lime Green R’s are listed for over sticker. I bought mine for under. I don’t want black and I want 2020 like the one I have. Hope that clears up any confusion.

UPDATE- no update but the Ford CSR is on it to expedite my repair. She called to see if I had an update since she had called the dealer twice today with no answer. I gave her the contacts I had and told her that I had rec’d an email that they are waiting for more info. Anyways, sounds like she is going to be following up through the system to get this done quickly. The sooner it get’s repaired the better. I don’t really want to go down the buyback road if I can help it.

 

[Montoya]

In your specific case (and any others similar to it) where the Owner has vested additional money into any aftermarket upgrades (physical parts, appearance or “detailing”) is where the loss would be incurred (to the Owner).

In Ford’s RAV docs it’s specifically laid out that Ford will not reimburse for anything aftermarket.

If an Owner installed say an aftermarket exhaust and wants to remove it, the Owner is responsible for the R&R (and any cost associated with the R&R if not DIY) and has to replace that aftermarket with the stock component OR similar at a cost out of their pocket (IF the original components are MIA).

Anything such as window tinting, PPF, “ceramics”, etc. there is obviously no way to “recoup” those items from the vehicle.

Even if an Owner can produce receipts for the purchases and seeks reimbursement, Ford and Ford RAV rarely deviate from the RAV polices.

NOW, that’s not to say the Owner cannot persist and see if Ford or Ford RAV will even entertain such a reimbursement for the $4k in aftermarket. In the instance of THIS specific GT350R failure, with the Owner having only had the car for 3 days, only 720mi AND THAT it is a “flagship” vehicle from Ford - the Owner *might* be able to push the aspect of “hey, I’m not asking for any more than to be made whole” - and while it’s an unfortunate situation for the OP, there’s a definitive QC issue SOMEWHERE if a brand new 2020 GT350R engine catastrophically fails in a VERY short period of time.

If it were me, sure as hell bet would I put pressure on Ford and Ford RAV with making me entirely whole by requesting reimbursement of the “aftermarket” upgrades. Put it to Ford Or Ford RAV this way - how in the F were you supposed to know that after putting out the purchase cost of the car + aftermarket that the engine was going to shit the bed before 1k miles? The worse they can do is say no, that they won’t deviate from the RAV docs or process... Then that’s when the OP can leverage that he will make this problem as public as possible and would seek an Attorney. Again there’s nothing saying this OP CAN’T request the reimbursement, BUT with such short ownership time on a brand new vehicle - it would be in Ford’s best interest to oblige and make the OP whole.

Now of course, any decision is solely up to the OP.

My opinion and viewpoint is this:
Do you tell Ford you want a refund - and take what is due to you - and lose the $4k in aftermarket upgrades...

OR

Do you allow the engine replacement and keep the car, then take a 10% + hit on the value of the vehicle + the $4k down the road?

IMO, if it were me - and Ford said “ok, we will refund the entire purchase of the vehicle but cannot reimburse the $4k” - I would take the refund and walk.

The 10%+ decrease in value on a future sale or trade in of that vehicle due to non-numbers matching will be a greater hit than just $4k.

Just putting it out there in black and white. I know sometimes “emotions” play a role in decisions, but anyone looking “in” or even for the OP, definitely look at the big picture (not just the “now”) before making any rash decisions.

It’s just not an easy or simple choice no matter which is decided...

Thanks for the detailed response Cobra Jet and thanks for researching the whole issue of Ford Buy Backs, RAV and Lemon Laws. It is not a simple decision, particularly since I want the exact same vehicle as a replacement. The two dealers over sticker on their Lime Green R’s are not likely to trade them to my dealer so I can buyback at MSRP, leaving me with no comparable cars. The question for you is how does RAV buybacks work if there is no comp to buy? Is the customer always given an chance to special order his car, or in the case of a limited production vehicle it is at Ford’s discretion and they might just say, ‘sorry you can compromise and choose another color or just take your money back’? If it’s the latter I don’t want to go down that road....

Appreciate any insight regarding this unique situation.

 

[Shogai]

I'm a little surprised at the lack of updates provided to you so far. Then again that might mean chaos behind the scenes as they scramble to figure out what to do. It's reassuring at least to hear the CSR is on top of following up to push things along.

Good luck OP.

 

[tokuzumi]

Subscribing. You have really worn the new off of this car! I hope you aren't without your GT350 for too long, although any time it's sitting at the shop is going to be too long

 

[VertMustang98GT]

I'm a little surprised at the lack of updates provided to you so far. Then again that might mean chaos behind the scenes as they scramble to figure out what to do. It's reassuring at least to hear the CSR is on top of following up to push things along.

Good luck OP.

It is a very slow process...It took me from start to finishing (opening a case #, 3 months until it was done, done).

Attached is the buy-back pricing breakdown they provided me and I'm not sure where they'd put (aftermarket upgrades) since I got full reimbursement for my truck but I didn't have upgrades to worry about neither.

I was also told, the first offer Ford gives, is the best offer usually.

Remember, I got told "No" two times before I they finally said yes. Stay positive and it'll all work out!

I hope this helps.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Thanks for the detailed response Cobra Jet and thanks for researching the whole issue of Ford Buy Backs, RAV and Lemon Laws. It is not a simple decision, particularly since I want the exact same vehicle as a replacement. The two dealers over sticker on their Lime Green R’s are not likely to trade them to my dealer so I can buyback at MSRP, leaving me with no comparable cars. The question for you is how does RAV buybacks work if there is no comp to buy? Is the customer always given an chance to special order his car, or in the case of a limited production vehicle it is at Ford’s discretion and they might just say, ‘sorry you can compromise and choose another color or just take your money back’? If it’s the latter I don’t want to go down that road....

Appreciate any insight regarding this unique situation.

You’re in a very unique situation being:
1) It’s a Shelby GT350R
2) It’s a Shelby GT350R in a very unique color
3) The aftermarket expense

My suggestion would be, if you have found (2) other LG R’s, call and tell your CSR of those vehicles, ask if there is the chance to make you whole if they would procure one of those LG’s and just do a collateral swap. They shouldn’t penalize you at all, because IF you financed the car, obviously you hadn’t been made the 1st payment... there would be paperwork involved to get VIN’s corrected on all docs, etc. Again sounds simple, but it’s not simple.

If Ford can get one of the LG’s for you, they would transport it to the Dealer where you are at (or where your car is) and you would do paperwork there.

As far as them ordering another to build - again, it’s a Shelby GT350R - it’s not a standard production S550. I don’t even know if they would entertain building another to match yours due to how those vehicles are assigned and built.

Allocation or not, someone at Ford should be able to assist you. I mean it’s not like you owned your car for 6 mos, you only had it for 3-days.

Be prepared, because the whole fix/repair on a major failure or even Buy Back process is not a “fast” process. Also be prepared to be the one chasing after XYZ to get things done or expedited to your favor.

 

[lenFeb]

It is a very slow process...It took me from start to finishing (opening a case #, 3 months until it was done, done).

Attached is the buy-back pricing breakdown they provided me and I'm not sure where they'd put (aftermarket upgrades) since I got full reimbursement for my truck but I didn't have upgrades to worry about neither.

I was also told, the first offer Ford gives, is the best offer usually.

Remember, I got told "No" two times before I they finally said yes. Stay positive and it'll all work out!

I hope this helps.

So, 'Less payoff of original vehicle' means that you will loos down payment and whatever you paid monthly(principal + interest) if financed? And what 'Less usage' means?

 

[Bluelightning]

Don't know where your getting your info but my dealer, Banner Ford, Covington, LA has a black GT350R for $3K below invoice. They would probably do better than that since they've had it for a half a year or more.

He's looking for the same color as stated in his above post.

 

[shogun32]

And what 'Less usage' means?

mileage-based depreciation.
'less payoff of original' is the amount the lender needs (remaining principle) to satisfy the note. Any part of your previous payments that were interest are 'gone' since you were renting the money from the bank and nobody works for free even though they printed the money out of thin air...

 

[NoXiDe]

I'm going to get some hate for this response but OP should accept the new engine with extended warranty. The Shelby GT350/R is nothing special other than the Voodoo engine and the handling components that were added to the Mustang platform. In fact, it should be called the Ford Performance 350 because it was built by Ford Performance and Shelby America never touched a single component. Accept the extended warranty and drive the car unlike the garage queen owners who think their going to get 200K 50 years from now. I highly doubt Apple Carplay will function 50 years from now making the tech obsolete. I'm sorry but OP you've already spent 5K on PPF plus whatever else. It's a beautiful machine but my suggestion is to accept the new engine and beat it till it blows again and repeat. It's the platform, enjoy it cause it's a fun ride.

 

[Ninjak]

I will have to agree with NoXiDie. I been through this process as well. My 17 threw rod 3 and 7 through the block. Now granted my journey was a little different because I had headers and tune. In the end, I took my 19 engine, the warranty with the engine, and the discount on the extended warranty. I did not want to give up what I had in the car already. (Beyond the headers, all OEM speakers replaced with Infinity series.) I am enjoying my car, knowing the 19 block is much better. When and IF I decide to sell, I'll deal with it then.

 

[DCShelby]

I agree. Get the new motor and extended warranty and call it a day. If you want a long term investment go buy some cheap stock or index fund while the markets getting killed. In 20 years it’s going to worth more than an original engine 350. They just made too many of them.

 

[Cobra Jet]

So, 'Less payoff of original vehicle' means that you will loos down payment and whatever you paid monthly(principal + interest) if financed? And what 'Less usage' means?

There are only (2) options when doing a Buy Back:
1) Vehicle replacement (RAV refers to it as swap of collateral).
2) Refund (Ford cuts a check for total amount of purchase minus any penalties such as fees or mileage use).

The example given by VertMustang98GT is for a refund, which although the process is similar, the end result varies from a vehicle replacement.

In the case of a vehicle replacement, it is strictly MSRP to MSRP. Doesn’t matter if the owner was able to buy a new Ford below MSRP or what their “OTD” cost was, the process mandates MSRP to MSRP. So if the vehicle (hypothetical cost) was $78k MSRP, the Owner can pick out ANY new Ford product that is at least $78k MSRP. If the replacement vehicle MSRP is higher than the original, then the Owner is responsible for paying that delta at time of signing (be it cash, credit or rolling into new loan).


Quick and dirty example (w/o fees/penalties) when MSRP = MSRP
Original Veh 1 MSRP: $78k
Loan Amt left Veh 1: $58k
New Vehicle 2 Replacement MSRP: $78k
The $58k remaining gets rolled into a new loan; you’ve acquired a new vehicle for $58k.


Quick and dirty example (w/o fees) when MSRP is not equal MSRP
Original Veh 1 MSRP: $78k
Loan Veh 1Amt left: $58k
New Vehicle 2 Replacement MSRP: $88k
Delta on Veh 2: $10k
The $58k + the $10k delta gets rolled into a new loan; you’ve acquired a new vehicle for $68k.

Again, the 2 above examples are VERY simple and VERY basic just to show how a vehicle replacement works. In my other threads on this site, I’ve posted other examples for vehicle replacement.

As I have always said in any RAV, Lemon or Buy Back thread - the OP seeking such resolution MUST reference their “.gov” site that contains their Home State Lemon Law provisions - that is what Ford uses as guidance. It’s NOT a “Ford thing”, it’s a State Law thing. Do not use 3rd party non-.gov sites, they contain garbage info and misinformation. Use the .gov DMV or .gov Attorney General site for your Home State that contains the Lemon Law info.

As far as penalties:
Again, this is set by the State Lemon Law and varies by State. Some implement penalties or fees for usage or mileage accumulation at FIRST reported instance; some States do not.

I’m not going to go much further, because I’ve posted a boatload of info regarding Buy Back scenarios in MANY threads AND the fact that it’s entirely up to the OP as to his decision. The info regarding Buy Back is only provided as “info” to assist with understanding the process IF going that route; it’s not to push anyone into a decision.

Now the other issue that presents itself with any Shelby or limited production Mustang is that *some* buyers pay ADM over the MSRP. I do not know how Ford or Ford RAV handles that type of situation when the Buyer has paid MSRP+ADM. So if anyone has that info, do post the experience.

 

[Montoya]

^ Cobra Jet- thanks again for the information. As you suggest there is a lot more detail in your buy back thread which I have read through.

I will have to agree with NoXiDie. I been through this process as well. My 17 threw rod 3 and 7 through the block. Now granted my journey was a little different because I had headers and tune. In the end, I took my 19 engine, the warranty with the engine, and the discount on the extended warranty. I did not want to give up what I had in the car already. (Beyond the headers, all OEM speakers replaced with Infinity series.) I am enjoying my car, knowing the 19 block is much better. When and IF I decide to sell, I'll deal with it then.

I agree. Get the new motor and extended warranty and call it a day. If you want a long term investment go buy some cheap stock or index fund while the markets getting killed. In 20 years it’s going to worth more than an original engine 350. They just made too many of them.

Guys, I appreciate the other point of view. I have no illusions of this being a collector car by any means. It’s just the perception that I would now own something that is ‘damaged goods’ and how much that would bother me over time. And there is the reality that there is some hit you will take on the back end with a replaced motor.(look at this way- two identical used cars for sale, one with a replacement motor and one without- which do you buy?) And, there are some questions regarding the replacement motor- yes it’s the latest spec, but is it new or refurbished (some have seen what appears to be a refurbished motor as a replacement). Finally- what the hell, they don’t sign the builder plate. This is just to remind you that every time you open your hood- yep, you have a replacement motor!

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