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How do you spell S-L-O-W?
- Thread starter 2021 Mach 1
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OP
OP
2021 Mach 1
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This morning, I was at it again guys and gals. This time in full on Drag mode and gear S. I punched it to the floor and held it there. This time, there was more wheel spin and getting out of line than the previous time in Sport+. Temperature a bit warmer at 79F, dry road. Still the same time of 4.8 seconds. However, getting the car to wiggle around was awesome.
moby4dick
Well-Known Member
I think it was, “A man’s got to know his limitations”.Won't be gettin free writing classes from us anytime soon.
we know we are terrible.
"If you want to be strong, you start by recognizing your weaknesses"
:Eastwood maybe:
GT-DM
Well-Known Member
Tire Pressure in rear?
Quality of road surface? (Makes huge diff)
Traction control on/off?
Advance tracking on or off?
Clutch style Traclok?
Or a Torsten rear differential?
Sounds like you enjoyed it!
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OP
OP
2021 Mach 1
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In the UK, Mach 1's do not get the Torsen differential. Other than selecting S and putting it in Drag mode, I didn't turn off any driver's aids.
Bit_the_Bullitt
Well-Known Member
We also need to know what was for lunch and if you've taken a massive morning s*it or not. DETAILS MATTER
ShadesOfBloo
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That's what she said.
hlfbkd420
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It's mine... I can wash it as fast as I want to!
tdstuart
Well-Known Member
As everyone else has stated, the magazines are great at getting the best possible times achievable.
My 2015 6r80 gt with a tune and some bolt-ons was getting around low to mid 5s 0-60 due to traction issues (even with 305w MPSS).
Got some drag radials (NT555R2) and now I am running mid to low 4s.
My issues now are gearing and converter as the car can't really launch any harder.
Only now after bolt-ons, cams, a tune, e85, and radials am I running what magazine times claim for my car.
The moral of the story is you are dealing with a rwd front-engine car. Mustangs are not the best at traction, that is just the truth. And so the reality is most people's 0-60 times are going to be a lot slower than the magazine times. Just look at hellcats as another example, many automotive YouTubers often comment on how hard it is to get the hellcat to launch well. When you look at awd cars, especially electric cars, your 0-60 will be a lot closer to the advertised 0-60.
My 2015 6r80 gt with a tune and some bolt-ons was getting around low to mid 5s 0-60 due to traction issues (even with 305w MPSS).
Got some drag radials (NT555R2) and now I am running mid to low 4s.
My issues now are gearing and converter as the car can't really launch any harder.
Only now after bolt-ons, cams, a tune, e85, and radials am I running what magazine times claim for my car.
The moral of the story is you are dealing with a rwd front-engine car. Mustangs are not the best at traction, that is just the truth. And so the reality is most people's 0-60 times are going to be a lot slower than the magazine times. Just look at hellcats as another example, many automotive YouTubers often comment on how hard it is to get the hellcat to launch well. When you look at awd cars, especially electric cars, your 0-60 will be a lot closer to the advertised 0-60.
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SheepDog
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Yup, my Model3 Performance would rip off 3.1's any time I asked it to. Until of course the battery was below about 60% charge.
GT-DM
Well-Known Member
2 things nearly anyone can control: Tire temperature & PSI inflation. If we are not attempting to manipulate either of these 2 variables by making adjustments to them. It will not be easy to improve acceleration when a spinning tire plagues any car.
To little air in a tire often results in it wanting to cup,
(or cupping upwards behavior)
up on the bottom, & away from the road surface. It's hard to see it though, because the tire around the perimeter of the contact patch, is contacting the road, which makes it visually difficult to see this phenomenon. This cupping behavior results in the loss of the largest portion of the tires contact patch to be applied to the road/track. This then leads to traction loss. What cures it is increasing the pressure just enough force the cuping behavior downward, until its pressing against the pavement/concrete. Cobblestones will be even more challenging. Lol
Tire cup phenomenon is of course around the 6 o'clock position of tire.
You could expect to see this below 20psi.
It varies in PSI for many reasons.
I'd start at ~30psi on a typical 70°/85°F day & then drop 4 psi at a time, till you think you have gone to far. Then start adding bk in around 2psi per hit.
To much, or to little air, are both going to be on the outsides of the metaphorical bell curve, which we refer to as Tractive Force Sweet Spot. Tire brands due vary on this range of ideal psi.
Call it what you will, as for the best inflation fir your own car. These short sidewall 30/35 series, 19"/20" wheel-tires, are not very DIG friendly.
Using a short sidewall from dig, is like putting a eyepatch over 1 eye & trying to hit a baseball with a bat. Possible, but not easy.
If your going to use the few tools mist people own, like a phone w/video capabilities, to record your rear tire action. The idea is to examine its shapes & behaviors in slow motion. You might try putting a line/or a triangle, on the sidewall with white shoe polish. It can be a bit helpful. Gives you a greater reference (in slow motion video) as to how many revolutions the tire makes when compared to the car moving forward, before it's starting to grip w/better adhesion, & seeing tire become a bit rounder in diameter, at lower inflation pressures.
Should you be able to get the tire to wrinkle, you may have dead hooked it. This can be an indicator of needing both less air or more air, depending on how far out on the curve you are in either direction.. Usually on a street tire we would need to add air if dead hookin it, but removing air is not out if the question. I'm personally am already using a chassis setup thats on the low side of the psi curve, if I'm at the race track. So for others, they may need the added wheel speed that cupping can bring.. which means a touch lower in air pressure. It's not how are 'minds eye' usually view the situation. Removing a little more air to get the tire to stop hooking quite so hard. These adjustments are certainly easier on a large sidewall tire, like a 17" drag radial, or a fully bias drag slick.
Dead hooking can lead to issues like wheel hop, vs tire shake. Problem is, by the time you feel it in your butt, it can be to late, & weak spots in the driveline are qwikly being discovered. Wheel hop is often seen on video, before driver feels it inside. The cars suspension/dampers will slow down the resonance of wheel hop as it travels thru the chassis, & towards your own body, thru seat foam & upholstery. Plus your own adrenaline can mask it a bit at times.
Wheel hop/tire shake, (different, but equally destructive) are usually seen on a prepared surface like a concrete launch pad dragstrip, or occasionally on quality concrete street that isn't worn slick. Previous model Mustangs with solid rear axles are not as prone to Wheel hop. They can be more prone to tire shake, if you have enough steam to wad up a large sidewall tire like a drag slick from a dead hook.
To much air makes the tire nice & round in shape, so much so that when traction is called for by wt# transfer & chassis separation forces, it's just not flat enough on the bottom to have much contact.
Lastly. If your car has been lowered or the alignment moved around at all, then I would be more inclined to verify my rear camber as to how it places the tire against the track, just after the car starts its motion forward. If you paid for a 275 or 305 width tire, you might as well put it all against the road & get your money's worth.
To little air in a tire often results in it wanting to cup,
(or cupping upwards behavior)
up on the bottom, & away from the road surface. It's hard to see it though, because the tire around the perimeter of the contact patch, is contacting the road, which makes it visually difficult to see this phenomenon. This cupping behavior results in the loss of the largest portion of the tires contact patch to be applied to the road/track. This then leads to traction loss. What cures it is increasing the pressure just enough force the cuping behavior downward, until its pressing against the pavement/concrete. Cobblestones will be even more challenging. Lol
Tire cup phenomenon is of course around the 6 o'clock position of tire.
You could expect to see this below 20psi.
It varies in PSI for many reasons.
I'd start at ~30psi on a typical 70°/85°F day & then drop 4 psi at a time, till you think you have gone to far. Then start adding bk in around 2psi per hit.
To much, or to little air, are both going to be on the outsides of the metaphorical bell curve, which we refer to as Tractive Force Sweet Spot. Tire brands due vary on this range of ideal psi.
Call it what you will, as for the best inflation fir your own car. These short sidewall 30/35 series, 19"/20" wheel-tires, are not very DIG friendly.
Using a short sidewall from dig, is like putting a eyepatch over 1 eye & trying to hit a baseball with a bat. Possible, but not easy.
If your going to use the few tools mist people own, like a phone w/video capabilities, to record your rear tire action. The idea is to examine its shapes & behaviors in slow motion. You might try putting a line/or a triangle, on the sidewall with white shoe polish. It can be a bit helpful. Gives you a greater reference (in slow motion video) as to how many revolutions the tire makes when compared to the car moving forward, before it's starting to grip w/better adhesion, & seeing tire become a bit rounder in diameter, at lower inflation pressures.
Should you be able to get the tire to wrinkle, you may have dead hooked it. This can be an indicator of needing both less air or more air, depending on how far out on the curve you are in either direction.. Usually on a street tire we would need to add air if dead hookin it, but removing air is not out if the question. I'm personally am already using a chassis setup thats on the low side of the psi curve, if I'm at the race track. So for others, they may need the added wheel speed that cupping can bring.. which means a touch lower in air pressure. It's not how are 'minds eye' usually view the situation. Removing a little more air to get the tire to stop hooking quite so hard. These adjustments are certainly easier on a large sidewall tire, like a 17" drag radial, or a fully bias drag slick.
Dead hooking can lead to issues like wheel hop, vs tire shake. Problem is, by the time you feel it in your butt, it can be to late, & weak spots in the driveline are qwikly being discovered. Wheel hop is often seen on video, before driver feels it inside. The cars suspension/dampers will slow down the resonance of wheel hop as it travels thru the chassis, & towards your own body, thru seat foam & upholstery. Plus your own adrenaline can mask it a bit at times.
Wheel hop/tire shake, (different, but equally destructive) are usually seen on a prepared surface like a concrete launch pad dragstrip, or occasionally on quality concrete street that isn't worn slick. Previous model Mustangs with solid rear axles are not as prone to Wheel hop. They can be more prone to tire shake, if you have enough steam to wad up a large sidewall tire like a drag slick from a dead hook.
To much air makes the tire nice & round in shape, so much so that when traction is called for by wt# transfer & chassis separation forces, it's just not flat enough on the bottom to have much contact.
Lastly. If your car has been lowered or the alignment moved around at all, then I would be more inclined to verify my rear camber as to how it places the tire against the track, just after the car starts its motion forward. If you paid for a 275 or 305 width tire, you might as well put it all against the road & get your money's worth.
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