Exactly. There is so much I could go into - but just to point out one thing. The IRS in stock form is HORRIBLE. Anyone who has seen a video showing the deflection would have to be scared shitless driving the car hard with it like that.
Gotcha. I think that's all that's necessary, at least for a 200tw tire. Ya, you can run higher rates, but I just don't see any advantage to it.I have ride-height adjustable coil-overs.
But point taken. I probably should have said "stock'ish RATE rear springs"
Yes, camber plates properly adjusted will certainly help keep as much flat tire on road surface as possible. I have a similar setup to yours: Steeda Sport Springs, with 295-30-19 front and 305-30-19 rear. Everything else is stock PP1. The course I frequent is very tight and technical so I've found that -2.9 camber seems to work pretty well for the occasional track day. I leave it set at this setting for street as well. It's not a daily driver, so I'm overly concerned about tire wear.
Can I ask about that my camber is -3.2 at the moment (minimum possible to tug the 305/30) inside however when on PP1 wheels on full lock they scrub on the inside with the 255/40/19 tires and this is annoying the shit out of me because I need full lock to get into my garage ... Anyone else having similar problem ?
Well. I think you find the issue
I don't want to run spacers because it's dangerous seen it time and again at my local track people loosing wheels no thank you.
There are 2 types. Through bolt spacers with extended studs are every bit as robust as a wheel with a longer hub. There's no physical difference.
I don't want to argue on the topic of wheel hubs I just don't want to use them I have ET26 19x11 SM-10 and they work perfect with the 305/30 with -3.20 camber. My problem is with the OEM PP1 wheels and my oem 255/40 tires when I have -3.20 camber the top of the tire is touching inside on a full lock. Which is very annoying when parking in the garage. No rubbing on the street (when not parking) or on the track with the track set.
