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Installing the FI interchiller on my Roushcharged Gen3 Coyote

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SH!FT

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What is the reasoning behind the 2nd reservoir again?
Larger volume stays cooler for longer. Plus at WOT the compressor shuts off. You need enough coolant to compensate. I was recommended 1.5 to 3 gals of extra reservoir.
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Wonder how hard it would be to make a front impact bar out of aluminum and it be a tank and mounting point.
The would be cool.
2nd tank must mount higher than the Roush tank to gravity feed the Roush tank then the pump.
 

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The would be cool.
2nd tank must mount higher than the Roush tank to gravity feed the Roush tank then the pump.
If it needed to be tied in yes. If it wasnt 2 gallons or more in itself. The whipple tank is below the impact bar. Pretty sure the pump on a roush kit is lower as well.

That might be my winter project to play with.
 

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Subscribed to see how you guys like it. I was always interested in the KillerChiller but held off since it didn’t hit all the checkmarks for me overall so this would be another good choice
 

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I’m interested if you ac can keep up or if the thermal load will be to much to keep you both cool. I hope this works though!
From my past experience and what I have heard from current Killer Chiller owners, the cabin cooling only really suffers in a heat soak situation. For example, when you shut the fully warmed up car off and run into a store for 30 minutes, the AC will really struggle to overcome that heat soak when you come back out.

I am very interested in seeing how this goes in comparison to the Killer Chiller. There have been claims of colder fluid temps, but I just don't see how there could be a significant difference based on the limited info FI puts out. While Joe Kincaid doesn't deserve much praise for his customer service these days, I will credit him with including a pre-brazed Mustang specific line and somewhat of a solution for an additional fluid reservoir.
 

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From my past experience and what I have heard from current Killer Chiller owners, the cabin cooling only really suffers in a heat soak situation. For example, when you shut the fully warmed up car off and run into a store for 30 minutes, the AC will really struggle to overcome that heat soak when you come back out.

I am very interested in seeing how this goes in comparison to the Killer Chiller. There have been claims of colder fluid temps, but I just don't see how there could be a significant difference based on the limited info FI puts out. While Joe Kincaid doesn't deserve much praise for his customer service these days, I will credit him with including a pre-brazed Mustang specific line and somewhat of a solution for an additional fluid reservoir.
According to FI the killerchiller core is a beverage cooler and not ment for refrigerant. It works but i bet the efficiency of it is lower. Likely due to the flow paths inside. However that being said i wonder if that heat soak is why FI uses a 2nd condensor in the stage 2 kit.
 

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According to FI the killerchiller core is a beverage cooler and not ment for refrigerant. It works but i bet the efficiency of it is lower. Likely due to the flow paths inside. However that being said i wonder if that heat soak is why FI uses a 2nd condensor in the stage 2 kit.
Interesting. From the limited images I have seen, they appear to be very similar cores. I do know that the core used in the KC has evolved over the past 15 or so years, but realistically they are both just using off the shelf cores.
 

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Interesting. From the limited images I have seen, they appear to be very similar cores. I do know that the core used in the KC ha evolved over the past 15 or so years, but realistically they are both just using off the shelf cores.
I would be shocked if they are custom spec sized as well.
 

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If they’re including a condenser core….then it seems to me that this installation could be done with zero permanent modification to any of the oem lines.

You could tie into the high and low side charging ports with adapters. Run the high side refrigerant through the condenser, then an orifice, then through the chiller unit, then back to the low side charging port. In fact, this method wouldn’t even require pulling the refrigerant out of the stock system. This would be so much more desirable to people like me who don’t want to molest the stock system any more than necessary.
 

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If they’re including a condenser core….then it seems to me that this installation could be done with zero permanent modification to any of the oem lines.

You could tie into the high and low side charging ports with adapters. Run the high side refrigerant through the condenser, then an orifice, then through the chiller unit, then back to the low side charging port. In fact, this method wouldn’t even require pulling the refrigerant out of the stock system. This would be so much more desirable to people like me who don’t want to molest the stock system any more than necessary.
Where can you find adapters?

One of the things i was thinking is with the 2nd condenser was use a 12v dc powered compressor so i can run cheap r134a on a 100% separate system. But im not sure if the alternator could power it 12v 66amp at full speed.

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Where can you find adapters?
Various ones are available out there. Just need to select the one that seals and adapts easiest to tubing.

One of the things i was thinking is with the 2nd condenser was use a 12v dc powered compressor so i can run cheap r134a on a 100% separate system. But im not sure if the alternator could power it 12v 66amp at full speed.
That’s a good idea too. Can it be turned down to the 30-40 amp range?

That’s better than an earlier idea I had….
https://a.co/d/cxNjEHJ
 

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Various ones are available out there. Just need to select the one that seals and adapts easiest to tubing.



That’s a good idea too. Can it be turned down to the 30-40 amp range?

That’s better than an earlier idea I had….
https://a.co/d/cxNjEHJ
They have 3 speeds. Full tilt is 66amp i would think 30-40 would be possible. You can also get a high output alternator to handle the extra amps. See what the audio guys use. Found some that go up to 400amp on a mustang.
 

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Why not circuit race with a supercharger? I suspect its because of heat soak, but what does that mean/do....asking for a friend who drives cars, but doesn't know shit about them, lol.
 
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If they’re including a condenser core….then it seems to me that this installation could be done with zero permanent modification to any of the oem lines.

You could tie into the high and low side charging ports with adapters. Run the high side refrigerant through the condenser, then an orifice, then through the chiller unit, then back to the low side charging port. In fact, this method wouldn’t even require pulling the refrigerant out of the stock system. This would be so much more desirable to people like me who don’t want to molest the stock system any more than necessary.
Check out the layout diagram for the universal kit on the FI website.

The stage 1 kit relies on the factory fans and condenser. The drag valve needs to be installed in the factory line in order to use the chiller at the track. Also keep in mind that tapping into the low at the charge port would make the line from the chiller very long.

I would be interested in your process for tapping into the stock charged system without introducing air.
 
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Why not circuit race with a supercharger? I suspect its because of heat soak, but what does that mean/do....asking for a friend who drives cars, but doesn't know shit about them, lol.
I get only a couple good pulls during high rpm spirited driving then I notice significant power loss. Recovery is slow with the LTR.

Have your friend google or youtube SC's vs turbos. There's some good stuff out there that breaks down the ideal applications for each type of SC and turbo setup.
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