Interchiller install (whipple GT350) and initial report

[DougS550]

Yes, I went with FI.

I did however ignore his rantings because I don't trust ditching the heat exchanger and I'm not looking to get the IAT "chilly" as much as I am trying to keep it from getting hot.

I just need it to not get into deep triple digits and I'm more concerned with the steady state performance than some sorta of stored, build up max chill at the drag strip.

So I plumbed the system in sequence. I have an ice tank (no ice) in the rear for more fluid capacity (more heat sink) with a PB400 pump that pushes coolant forward, through the blower/intercooler, from there it goes to the heat exchanger, from the heat exchanger it goes to through the chiller and then from the chiller back to the reservoir.

In this setup, if the discharge from the blower is cooler than ambient temps, then the heat exchangers actually HEATS the coolant. In most loaded situations, the discharge from the blower is above ambient, so the heat exchanger serves it's original purpose, just at reduced temps.

In this configuration, if the A/C system takes a shit, then my car simply returns back to a traditional heat exchanger setup. That way I'm not stuck on long trips if the compressor craps out or the compressor clutch, etc (which I've had happen).

To minimize temps, they want to eliminate the H/E and the more stored solution is a loop to/from the reservoir and a loop to and from the reservoir to the blower.

I considered having a middle ground and doing a loop to/from the reservoir and the chiller and then just have my normal loop from the reservoir-blower-h/e-back to reservoir, but this would require running two pumps and I'm already over budget on electrical load with a modest radio amp and fuel system. So I elected to go with a single serial loop.

If electrical loads weren't an issue I'd have done the split loop.

IN their recommended configuration, the chiller tries to super cool the fluid under low load conditions and then when you mash, the fluid going to the blower is cooler. This is why they don't want the H/E because again, in low load, if the fluid comes out of the intercooler at lower than ambient, the H/E actually adds heat back.

So in the end, it's all about a combination of what risks you're willing to accept.

I also don't really like the operational/power configuration and I may update that in the future. The way it is right now is that the A/C system operates the chiller all the time and the interior cabin A/C some of the time. I would rather have full flexibility to turn both branches off or turn one or the other on or both. But living in FL, it's not the end of the world because I don't drive the car in conditions where I would want to cut the A/C all that often (it can damage it if you try to run it in too cold of temps) and I don't go to the drag strip (despite claims, I'm really worried that even with all the insulation and shielding that the car will still drip on the track if it's really hot/humid even with the cabin loop cutoff).

Thank you for your help. I agree with you, I do not want to get rid of my OS whipple H/E for those exact reasons for I am a "What IF" man. I decided I will go with IC Chiller (Charlie). He has been very helpful and I have his direct number which he answers immediately, and I am not waiting for a reply email from Australia if I have issues. He said he will help me 100% through my install as well as any future issues/concerns I might have. I told Charlie I wanted to keep my whipple OS H/E and he said he has a Bypass adapter kit ready to go so I can keep it. It involves installing a bypass valve and running a toggle switch/wires to the inside of my car, for me to mount the switch. Then when I get into traffic or want to play, all I do is turn it on and walla, Chiller Chilling. Because right now, even at 14-15lbs boost, my Mishimoto 3 core radiator, OS Whipple H/E and the 170 degree thermostat, Mishimoto oil Cooler, I have only seen my electric radiator fans come on a few times driving in stop and go traffic. And thats with my tuner lowering the threshold Temp of when my fans turn on. So this is just for those times when I need it.
Thank you. Chat later

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[Angrey]

It's a very complex affair and many different conditions, the optimal configuration changes.

Again, for a single pass, drag only application, having no H/E makes sense.

The MOST optimal setup would be to have a thermostat that is tied to ambients and when the fluid is above ambient, send it through the H/E, and when it's below, bypass the H/E and send it through the chiller back to the reservoir.

That way when you're cruising or idling, it's just going small loop and when you're beating on the car you're getting the most reduction out of the system and it would still retain the fall back/default position of the non-IC setup.

There seems to be this myth out there that you can run more timing at 50F than you can at 100F and with 93 that is true but with E85, most tuners are comfortable with full timing well over 100F.

In my configuration, it helps with back to back to back rips in holding the initial starting temps down. Everything just gradually climbs so instead of starting a heat soaked rip and seeing IAT's starting out at triple digits, it helps to ensure that temps are held more in check.

 

[DougS550]

Can you tell me what you have heard, good or bad about IC Chiller kits? I do like what they offer. I have the option to use my whipple OS H/E and install a electric bypass valve and routing the switch to mount somewhere in the inside. I would like not having it going continuously, but only when the need arises.
Thanks

 

[Angrey]

Can you tell me what you have heard, good or bad about IC Chiller kits? I do like what they offer. I have the option to use my whipple OS H/E and install a electric bypass valve and routing the switch to mount somewhere in the inside. I would like not having it going continuously, but only when the need arises.
Thanks

Not familiar. Don't think they were around or an option when I did mine.

 

[DougS550]

Yes, I went with FI.

I did however ignore his rantings because I don't trust ditching the heat exchanger and I'm not looking to get the IAT "chilly" as much as I am trying to keep it from getting hot.

I just need it to not get into deep triple digits and I'm more concerned with the steady state performance than some sorta of stored, build up max chill at the drag strip.

So I plumbed the system in sequence. I have an ice tank (no ice) in the rear for more fluid capacity (more heat sink) with a PB400 pump that pushes coolant forward, through the blower/intercooler, from there it goes to the heat exchanger, from the heat exchanger it goes to through the chiller and then from the chiller back to the reservoir.

In this setup, if the discharge from the blower is cooler than ambient temps, then the heat exchangers actually HEATS the coolant. In most loaded situations, the discharge from the blower is above ambient, so the heat exchanger serves it's original purpose, just at reduced temps.

In this configuration, if the A/C system takes a shit, then my car simply returns back to a traditional heat exchanger setup. That way I'm not stuck on long trips if the compressor craps out or the compressor clutch, etc (which I've had happen).

To minimize temps, they want to eliminate the H/E and the more stored solution is a loop to/from the reservoir and a loop to and from the reservoir to the blower.

I considered having a middle ground and doing a loop to/from the reservoir and the chiller and then just have my normal loop from the reservoir-blower-h/e-back to reservoir, but this would require running two pumps and I'm already over budget on electrical load with a modest radio amp and fuel system. So I elected to go with a single serial loop.

If electrical loads weren't an issue I'd have done the split loop.

IN their recommended configuration, the chiller tries to super cool the fluid under low load conditions and then when you mash, the fluid going to the blower is cooler. This is why they don't want the H/E because again, in low load, if the fluid comes out of the intercooler at lower than ambient, the H/E actually adds heat back.

So in the end, it's all about a combination of what risks you're willing to accept.

I also don't really like the operational/power configuration and I may update that in the future. The way it is right now is that the A/C system operates the chiller all the time and the interior cabin A/C some of the time. I would rather have full flexibility to turn both branches off or turn one or the other on or both. But living in FL, it's not the end of the world because I don't drive the car in conditions where I would want to cut the A/C all that often (it can damage it if you try to run it in too cold of temps) and I don't go to the drag strip (despite claims, I'm really worried that even with all the insulation and shielding that the car will still drip on the track if it's really hot/humid even with the cabin loop cutoff).

First. Did you have any issue getting a shop to service 134a instead of 1234 refrigerant (if your car originally had 1234). Why didn't FI want you to use the whipple basic H/E?. My kit will be here next week so I am preparing how I will install. I am thinking to install the basic whipple heat exchanger, and install an extra tank to use souly with the interchiller when it is turned on. I ask them if they offer the elecric bypass valve I will wire in so when the AC system is turned on the chiller is doing the cooling not the H/E. Did you keep whipple aluminum coolant reservoir and the small plastic fill reservoir you add coolant into?.

 

[Angrey]

First. Did you have any issue getting a shop to service 134a instead of 1234 refrigerant (if your car originally had 1234). Why didn't FI want you to use the whipple basic H/E?. My kit will be here next week so I am preparing how I will install. I am thinking to install the basic whipple heat exchanger, and install an extra tank to use souly with the interchiller when it is turned on. I ask them if they offer the elecric bypass valve I will wire in so when the AC system is turned on the chiller is doing the cooling not the H/E. Did you keep whipple aluminum coolant reservoir and the small plastic fill reservoir you add coolant into?.

You're straining my memory when it comes to the coolant. From what I remember, the bigger issue was trying to get the correct amount of coolant and the correct amount of PAG oil to put back in.

As for as the H/E, again, they don't want the heat exchanger because if the coolant exiting the intercooler is still colder than ambient a heat exchanger actually works in reverse and heats the coolant (rather than cooling it) and fights against you. Which is true if you're trying to setup a single cold pass. (and again, is fine if you don't care about being stranded in the event your A/C system takes a shit).

With no heat exchanger, if you're compressor clutch goes out, you won't be able to drive the car more than a few miles without having to shut it down and let it cool for 2 hours, then limp it another few miles, cool it down, etc.

If your compressor actually takes a shit, if you leak A/C coolant, etc. It's not a huge risk, but my car has already required a compressor replacement. I drive my car and not just to and from the grocery store or the cars/coffee or the track. Sometimes I take long trips in it. I want to avoid as many things as I can that make it a tow truck risk. It'd be one thing if our cars were known for their A/C system reliability (with all components). In fact the opposite is still very true.

A bypass valve as you indicated would in theory create two separate loops. It just wasn't an option for me at the time.

I ditched the whipple reservoir and went with a rear mounted tank and pump. Again, IC didn't like that. But it's my car, I wanted more fluid for a heat sink and I wanted a much better pump which necessitated it be mounted in the rear.

In the end, the bypass would be the way to go, without that, my car is setup to reduce (but not minimize) IAT's and keep them lower for more extended periods of time. The drag setup is more for max cold single pass and not really as effective at keeping IAT's reasonable for extended use.

 

[mepawn]

You're straining my memory when it comes to the coolant. From what I remember, the bigger issue was trying to get the correct amount of coolant and the correct amount of PAG oil to put back in.

As for as the H/E, again, they don't want the heat exchanger because if the coolant exiting the intercooler is still colder than ambient a heat exchanger actually works in reverse and heats the coolant (rather than cooling it) and fights against you. Which is true if you're trying to setup a single cold pass. (and again, is fine if you don't care about being stranded in the event your A/C system takes a shit).

With no heat exchanger, if you're compressor clutch goes out, you won't be able to drive the car more than a few miles without having to shut it down and let it cool for 2 hours, then limp it another few miles, cool it down, etc.

If your compressor actually takes a shit, if you leak A/C coolant, etc. It's not a huge risk, but my car has already required a compressor replacement. I drive my car and not just to and from the grocery store or the cars/coffee or the track. Sometimes I take long trips in it. I want to avoid as many things as I can that make it a tow truck risk. It'd be one thing if our cars were known for their A/C system reliability (with all components). In fact the opposite is still very true.

A bypass valve as you indicated would in theory create two separate loops. It just wasn't an option for me at the time.

I ditched the whipple reservoir and went with a rear mounted tank and pump. Again, IC didn't like that. But it's my car, I wanted more fluid for a heat sink and I wanted a much better pump which necessitated it be mounted in the rear.

In the end, the bypass would be the way to go, without that, my car is setup to reduce (but not minimize) IAT's and keep them lower for more extended periods of time. The drag setup is more for max cold single pass and not really as effective at keeping IAT's reasonable for extended use.

Bringing this thread back to life! Im looking to have the same exact set up that you put on yours. I want to keep my heat exchanger, that im upgrading to 1" lines, just in case the ac fails. Now i do drag race my car and have actually gotten temps up to 220 by the end of the 1/4 so this will give me a significant boost in power on the top end.

What IAT2s are you seeing at the end of your pulls when you have it set up this way? Im not looking for 30 degrees IAT2 on these pulls just would like below 100 for no timing to be pulled at all.

 

[robvas]

With no heat exchanger, if you're compressor clutch goes out, you won't be able to drive the car more than a few miles without having to shut it down and let it cool for 2 hours, then limp it another few miles, cool it down, etc.

How different is that from your IC pump failing? A lot of people have driven their cars for a while before realizing the pump is dead (or never hooked up right in the first place)

 

[mepawn]

How different is that from your IC pump failing? A lot of people have driven their cars for a while before realizing the pump is dead (or never hooked up right in the first place)

I would guess people don't pay attention to the temps and feel a significant power decrease or potential damage to the engine is caused

 

[robvas]

I would guess people don't pay attention to the temps and feel a significant power decrease or potential damage to the engine is caused

A lot of people don't know better. And your tune is going to pull a bunch of timing so it won't destroy anything. Just saying that it's not uncommon.

 

[DougS550]

A lot of people don't know better. And your tune is going to pull a bunch of timing so it won't destroy anything. Just saying that it's not uncommon.

FYI: I "do not" have a whipple radiator and I drove my car twice without my AC working for over 30 minutes each time and my AIT2 stayed around 100° at 80° outside tempuature. I have a insulated 10 quart coolant tank for my whipple. I am at 15.5 lbs boost.

 

[mepawn]

A lot of people don't know better. And your tune is going to pull a bunch of timing so it won't destroy anything. Just saying that it's not uncommon.

This is true but for builds that are more max effort, it could cause significant damage. It became clear for me that my cooling system is only capable of street driving my car. I will not race it again until i upgrade all the cooling for my supercharger considering the temps it ended at.

FYI: I "do not" have a whipple radiator and I drove my car twice without my AC working for over 30 minutes each time and my AIT2 stayed around 100° at 80° outside tempuature. I have a insulated 10 quart coolant tank for my whipple. I am at 15.5 lbs boost.

I thought you had kept your heat exchanger to work woth the interchiller?

 

[DougS550]

Well??.

This is true but for builds that are more max effort, it could cause significant damage. It became clear for me that my cooling system is only capable of street driving my car. I will not race it again until i upgrade all the cooling for my supercharger considering the temps it ended at.


I thought you had kept your heat exchanger to work woth the interchiller?

Well??, after I tried keeping it, it became evident I could not keep it due to two reasons. 1: I have the mishimoto 3 core radiator 2: I bought the FI Stage 2 which has the extra AC Condecer and Fans to be installed. No room for anything else.

 

[mepawn]

Well??.

Well??, after I tried keeping it, it became evident I could not keep it due to two reasons. 1: I have the mishimoto 3 core radiator 2: I bought the FI Stage 2 which has the extra AC Condecer and Fans to be installed. No room for anything else.

I got the stage 2 FI Interchiller as well and got delivered yesterday. Didnt realize it came with an extra condenser. But i guess im going to try and make it all fit, somehow, someway. I just cant stand the idea of not having something if the ac fails especially since im pushing 26psi through a vmp gen3r. Generates a bunch of heat

 

[robvas]

I got the stage 2 FI Interchiller as well and got delivered yesterday. Didnt realize it came with an extra condenser. But i guess im going to try and make it all fit, somehow, someway. I just cant stand the idea of not having something if the ac fails especially since im pushing 26psi through a vmp gen3r. Generates a bunch of heat

So don't make 26psi of boost if your AC fails.

The heat exchanger isn't going to cool it down much anyway aren't you already seeing 200 degree IATs?

It just seems like if you keep the heat exchanger (and don't bypass it) you're just limiting the effectiveness of the interchiller

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