Installing the FI interchiller on my Roushcharged Gen3 Coyote

SH!FT

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I haven't seen posts for DIY on the interchiller. I'll share what I can during my install process. FI asks their customers to not share any of the provided videos, instructions, or part number specific components which I am going to respect.

***Update with table of contents***
Total spent: ~$2400
Install time: A few weekends

Chiller performance & IAT2/coolant temps: post #80, post #93, post #113

Electronics install: post #36, post #47, post #100
LTR removal: post #46
Chiller, drier, & solenoid mounting: post #105
Refrigerant line assembly: post #106
Coolant line assembly: post #109
Insulating: post #75, post #79
Leak test and refrigerant recharge: post #110
********************************************

Fair Warning:

I am an engineer. I will over plan and complicate everything. My install will take wayyy longer than it should take you. I'll use tools and machines that aren't necessary complete the job. I'll wait for FI to confirm everything I do. Don't take my word on anything. Contact FI for any tech info.
Buckle up..


Planning:
For the past 6 weeks I've been blowing up the inboxes of [email protected], [email protected], and [email protected]. They've all been awesome. The goal is to use the Roush PID parameters to monitor IAT2 and pre/post chiller water temps with the AeroForce OBD2 interceptor gauge. I expect the install take me 1-2 weeks. Still waiting on some Amazon goodies to arrive, but I plan to start disassembling the car after work. Budget is $2,300 (cost of the Roush Max Cooling Upgrade Kit). I'll be having my local shop recharge the HVAC which may bust the budget.


What's in the Box?
I bought the stage 1 interchiller kit on the June 27 for $1,787.51 USD. I received the kit from DHL on July 8. Signature was required.
The kit includes all required for the HVAC. These plumbing components are super high quality from Holland. Everything came packed neatly organized and clearly labeled. It weights just over 20lbs. The kit includes a USB drive with instructions, pictures, and videos.

1657682775040.jpeg


USB files
1657683438373.png



A La Carte Items:
This interchiller kit seems to be universal for most S550 setups. I'm required to purchase/fabricate the electrical, water plumbing, and fixturing particular to my build. I'll post links once I confirm the components that work for me.
  • 3/4" heater hose
  • 1" hose clamps
  • 2 and 3 wire cable
  • Multi pin quick connectors
  • Fuse(s)
  • 4 pin replay
  • Chiller mounting fixture
  • Drag solenoid mounting fixture
FI strongly recommends adding a 2nd coolant reservoir. My goal is to add 2 gallons. I'll also be adding a 2nd water temp sensor to monitor the post chilled coolant temps.


More to come!!

 
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smokescreens

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I will be watching this thread. I want a interchiller myself.
 

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I’m interested if you ac can keep up or if the thermal load will be to much to keep you both cool. I hope this works though!
 

smokescreens

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I’m interested if you ac can keep up or if the thermal load will be to much to keep you both cool. I hope this works though!
I dont understand how but the cabin air still gets just as cold. Even with the bigger unit. My only fear is my a/c goes out on the road and i cant drive my car because of that. However, if im being fair. if a hole gets poked in my heat exchanger or the pump goes out im done as well so maybe its not a logical fear.
 

Bahndvr

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Mine arrive 13 June.
I will be standing by for your installation.

InterChiller.jpg
 


smokescreens

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Does this kit comes with a modified high pressure line?
From what i was told by FI interchillers. It comes with hose, clamps, fittings and solder on fittings. You need to cut the factory hardline and modify it with what is in the kit. Plus the brazing rods and a set of crimpers for the clamps.
 
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SH!FT

SH!FT

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I dont understand how but the cabin air still gets just as cold. Even with the bigger unit. My only fear is my a/c goes out on the road and i cant drive my car because of that. However, if im being fair. if a hole gets poked in my heat exchanger or the pump goes out im done as well so maybe its not a logical fear.
My concerns before making the purchase:
  1. I'm scared.. is it really necessary to delete the LTR heat exchanger.
  2. Will I need to be towed if the AC fails??


Feedback for #1:
"Unless circuit racing (shouldn't be circuit racing a supercharger) totally remove the heat exchanger(s) from the car.
Retaining the heat exchanger is an absolute waste of time, and additional weight and complexity as well as an intercooler fluid flow loss."

Feedback for #2:
"Intake air temps when not in boost really do not matter at all, the engine is basically naturally aspirated when at idle and cruise, having or not having cooling doesn't have much impact."

"When you are not in boost the car is basically naturally aspirated the intake temps have no relevance, they can be whatever as long as you don't go into boost you will be fine, the issue of AC failure is extremely unlikely, you are far more likely to fail an intercooler pump or have a hose leak, which would then give you the exact same conditions."


My thoughts on cabin air temps:
FI has research and metrics available on their website. The provided USB drive file list shown in post #1 includes a ton of info and tricks for maximizing cooling the capability such as "Minimize your losses.pdf" and "My AC System is Turning OFF.pdf".

I don't care enough to the sit there with an IR gun to compare pre/post cabin temps. I'm assuming their may be a very minimal cabin cooling loss. The drastic change in IAT2 will be well worth it. I can hear my compressor clutch disengage quite often, so there's definitely compacity left in the system.
 
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SH!FT

SH!FT

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I dont understand how but the cabin air still gets just as cold. Even with the bigger unit. My only fear is my a/c goes out on the road and i cant drive my car because of that. However, if im being fair. if a hole gets poked in my heat exchanger or the pump goes out im done as well so maybe its not a logical fear.
The gist I've gotten is that the puny Roush IC pump will be the weakest link in the cooling system.
 

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The gist I've gotten is that the puny Roush IC pump will be the weakest link in the cooling system.
I have a whipple but im willing to vet we have very similar if not exactly the same pump
 

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The gist I've gotten is that the puny Roush IC pump will be the weakest link in the cooling system.
Definitely upgrade the pump if you can. I think that may have been one of the issues I had with temps not being as cool as they should have been.
 

smokescreens

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Wonder how hard it would be to make a front impact bar out of aluminum and it be a tank and mounting point.
 

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SH!FT

SH!FT

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Definitely upgrade the pump if you can. I think that may have been one of the issues I had with temps not being as cool as they should have been.
Could also have to do with the amount coolant you have. Once the H/E is deleted we're well under 2 gallons.
 

 
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