Installed FI Interchiller: 30° Coolant Temp

[DougS550]

HP gains are mainly from those still on pump gas. E85 is much more resistant to temp induced knock, so most tuners don't even start to really sweat until IAT2's are up in the mid triple digits (on E85). But yeah, if you're on 93 and the tune features timing constraints for higher IAT's, chilling the intercooling system is definitely going to allow for max timing more often.

Just got the info. Stock Hellcat which dynoed in at 600whp stock. Then they put the 1 psi blower pulley on, The interchiller, tuned it on 93 octane and got 748 whp. He will share the before and after dyno graphs.
I am scheduling my dyno now.

Sponsored

 

[DougS550]

Slate Performance said it was a stock Hellcat which dynoed @ 600whp stock. They put a very small 1 psi blower pulley on, Installed the Interchiller, Tuned on 93 octane and had a end results of 748whp. He said I could have the Dyno graphs if I wanted.

 

[Torinate]

Ok. There is a ton to be said for cool intake temps!

But, 147 hp sounds a little over the top if you’re saying it had 1 more PSI boost and just the interchiller. I’m skeptical. I’ve been wrong before, that doesn’t add up UNLESS they added complete tuning, the 1 psi increase and some octane or e85.

Did I read that correct that your IAT2 is still 70*?

 

[DougS550]

Ok. There is a ton to be said for cool intake temps!

But, 147 hp sounds a little over the top if you’re saying it had 1 more PSI boost and just the interchiller. I’m skeptical. I’ve been wrong before, that doesn’t add up UNLESS they added complete tuning, the 1 psi increase and some octane or e85.

Did I read that correct that your IAT2 is still 70*?

Today outside temps are in the 70s. I just drove to a appointment with the AC ON, my IC temp was upper 30s-low 40s it does go up and down a few degrees. I assume it's the interchiller. Now I did insulated my 2.5 gallons reservoir tank and All coolant hoses, fittings Etc.

 

[Torinate]

Today outside temps are in the 70s. I just drove to a appointment with the AC ON, my IC temp was upper 30s-low 40s it does go up and down a few degrees. I assume it's the interchiller. Now I did insulated my 2.5 gallons reservoir tank and All coolant hoses, fittings Etc.

What were your IAT2 temps though? That is what makes the difference - I the actual intake air temps post blower and intercooler. What difference are you seeing in the IAT2 temps from before and after the install?

Install looks great by the way!

 

[DougS550]

What were your IAT2 temps though? That is what makes the difference - I the actual intake air temps post blower and intercooler. What difference are you seeing in the IAT2 temps from before and after the install?

Install looks great by the way!

It was low but I didn't take it to memory. Tell you what, I will take it out to dinner and drive and check.

 

[DougS550]

What were your IAT2 temps though? That is what makes the difference - I the actual intake air temps post blower and intercooler. What difference are you seeing in the IAT2 temps from before and after the install?

Install looks great by the way!

IAT2 right at 65° F

 

[Angrey]

The HP claims are dubious.

Unless you're just running with no intercooler and 93 octane, lowering IAT2's is more to preserve the max output than it is to actually increase max output.

There's some snake oil going on. If you compress air, it heats up, if you then cool it, it loses pressure (but not total particles).

Having low IAT's will help from LOSING power by having to yank timing to protect from temp induced knock (with poor quality fuel).

Like I wrote earlier, with E85, it's pretty knock resistant so most tuners don't force limits until IAT2's are in the mid triple digits (i.e. 150F).

I'm not certain of the timing changes you can achieve with going from 100F IAT2 to 50F IAT2. So in theory, you COULD gain power (max output) with 93, but I'm going to go on a limb and say it ain't as drastic as hundreds of hp.

Keeping IAT2's in check simply helps to add some safety if you're on E85 and keep the tune from hitting borderline and yanking timing if you're on 93.

I feel like there's some taking advantage of a dubious proposition that colder temps post intercooler adds air(oxygen) which leads to more power. Unless you're cooling the incoming air, once you pressurize it, cooling it will not result in more oxygen molecules.

 

[DougS550]

The HP claims are dubious.

Unless you're just running with no intercooler and 93 octane, lowering IAT2's is more to preserve the max output than it is to actually increase max output.

There's some snake oil going on. If you compress air, it heats up, if you then cool it, it loses pressure (but not total particles).

Having low IAT's will help from LOSING power by having to yank timing to protect from temp induced knock (with poor quality fuel).

Like I wrote earlier, with E85, it's pretty knock resistant so most tuners don't force limits until IAT2's are in the mid triple digits (i.e. 150F).

I'm not certain of the timing changes you can achieve with going from 100F IAT2 to 50F IAT2. So in theory, you COULD gain power (max output) with 93, but I'm going to go on a limb and say it ain't as drastic as hundreds of hp.

Keeping IAT2's in check simply helps to add some safety if you're on E85 and keep the tune from hitting borderline and yanking timing if you're on 93.

I feel like there's some taking advantage of a dubious proposition that colder temps post intercooler adds air(oxygen) which leads to more power. Unless you're cooling the incoming air, once you pressurize it, cooling it will not result in more oxygen molecules.

Well, I don't think the owner is lying. He said has the before and after dyno sheets. He just made a comment after I told him I just installed a FI Interchiller stage 2. He has a large shop and does ALLOT of work from old to new. I was just repeating what he said

 

[robvas]

I mean it's simple, run the car with the chiller turned off, trap 130.

then turn it on and trap 147

 

[Torinate]

I’m hoping Doug gets the car on a dyno to see where he’s at. Sure, one run off then another run on and compare. Or even if he has a previous dyno without it to compare to. Sure, if the old was in the summer and this is now in the fall that would should the widest margin.

The killer chiller is great! But not 147 whp great. That’s like a 100 shot of nitrous before the blower to cool things and add some power!

 

[Torinate]

Sorry. Thinking about it more.

Adding 147 whp is A LOT!!!

 

[DougS550]

I’m hoping Doug gets the car on a dyno to see where he’s at. Sure, one run off then another run on and compare. Or even if he has a previous dyno without it to compare to. Sure, if the old was in the summer and this is now in the fall that would should the widest margin.

The killer chiller is great! But not 147 whp great. That’s like a 100 shot of nitrous before the blower to cool things and add some power!

I do agree, it does sound pretty far fetched to gain that much HP from cooler IAT2. But, I will ask for the dyno sheet. As far as turning the AC off, I ran my car for 25 minutes in 89°F outside temp with no AC taking it to get the AC charged and my IAT2 didn't go over 110°F. The 2.5 gallon tank does supply enough cooling (without boost) as FI said.

 

[Torinate]

So from your examples, we’re looking at a difference of about 40-45* cooler IAT2 temps. Not sure what that equates to as far power increases. Safer sure. But at what IAT does the computer start to pull timing? 135 140 150? I’ve seen them all listed. I’m sure 70* makes more power than 110.

For comparison, my EB runs between 95 and 105 consistently. I’m 90* weather it’s around the 105. I haven’t seen 110+ unless it was run real hard and parked in the hot sun and even then once it runs for a minute it’s back down to the 95-105. That’s with a hot air PMAS as well. There’s no question the killer chiller is working - I’d love to have one if I didn’t have a/c issues - but not sure of the gains I’d see for my purpose, which is just a quick drop top cruiser that sees the track only a few times a year if I’m lucky.

I’m looking forward to your dyno! I hope there’s a noticeable increase!

 

[Angrey]

The claim is dubious. They're leaving something out.

Cooling the air AFTER it's been compressed can not result in additional oxygen. Period. End of physics discussion. All it can do is alter how much the motor can take advantage of the oxygen available. So it's mainly an advantage in timing.

If you really peel out all the way down, it's no different than intercooling, just cooling it further. It's particularly useful on 93 octane, but on E85, again, most tunes don't feature severe knock retard until IAT2's are crazy high.

And I've seen the misleading claims that "cooler air is denser." That is true, but let's not get it twisted, if you compress fluid and it heats up, then you cool it, you do indeed make it denser, but you also reduce it's pressure. So it's disingenuous to suggest that the new chilled air is at the same pressure as it was when it left the compressor (hot).

The reason that's not physically possible is because there's no other inputs for additional fluid. Once it leaves the compressor, the temperature and pressure can be altered, but unless you have leaks, there can be no additional particles added to the system.

Now, if one were able to super chill the AMBIENT intake air, THAT is a different story. Starting with denser air will allow the compressor to deliver more air. But starting with hot air, compressing it and then chilling it, it's the same amount of air.

So when you consider that, ask yourself if 140+ hp out of timing adjustments alone seems plausible?

My car made just over 800 rwhp on TDC (zero timing). It ran like shit and we thought it might be getting spark blowout. Once we started adding timing, as we would expect, it picked up power. The differences between 21 degrees and 17 degrees was about 100 rwhp (25 hp/degree average) but the difference between 20 and 21 degrees was in the teens. We saw we were not picking up big gains so the additional spark was diminishing returns. And that was on 19 psi max, on a very HIGHLY FLOWING system.

My point is, unless the tune is starting off INTENTIONALLY shorted, you're not picking up huge amounts of power for every degree of added spark.

Now if you start off with a baseline where the motor is at 16 degrees and once you add the interchiller now you're pushing it out to 21, 22 degrees, then sure. But again, something in the whole claim is intentionally sandbagged or exaggerated (meaning to get 140+ rwhp difference, the baseline was probably shorted to exaggerate the improvement).

Sponsored