Installing the FI interchiller on my Roushcharged Gen3 Coyote

[SH!FT]

I got a bunch done yesterday.

• Removed the heat exchanger
• Dropped the Roush reservoir tank/pump
• Mocked up the chiller mounting bracket

Removing the heat exchanger:
The LTR heat exchanger came out easy. I was super careful so spilled very little coolant. I hope to get an accurate idea of the IC coolant capacity with the chiller is installed.
Roush install instructions for reference.

Started by draining the LTR temp sensor port.
I setup catch pans across the length of the spanner bar. As expected, some coolant ran down the LTR then followed down the spanner. I opened the degas cap to increase the flow once the catch pans were set.

Looking back: I should've removed the spanner bar before draining the temp sensor port. All coolant would have likely flowed right into the bucket.

Res. tank level shown after sensor port was empty.

Next was the LTR outlet. A bit more coolant emptied, but from the hose only.

Last was the LTR inlet which I was dreading. Luckily none came out.

Probably not necessary, but I removed the spanner bracket before unbolting the LTR. Had a magnet handy for clips that fall into the frame.

A bit more coolant emptied from the LTR when tipped it over.

Dropping the Roush reservoir tank/pump:
Carefully fished the LTR inlet hose back behind the fan shroud and hooked end on the fan harness.
Hose end must remain higher than the tank or coolant will spill.

Next disassembled the tank/pump mounting bracket. The tank dropped slightly allowing access on both sides of the tank inlet connection. Both hands are needed. It's a PITA to disconnect.

Tank/pump down.

Removed the 2 plastic close-out panels.

Access to HVAC liquid line:

Side note: The OD of the engine coolant petcock nozzle is 0.435". I'll be adding an extension so it can be drained without dropping the Roush components.


Mocking up the chiller mounting bracket:
Started with a 6" x 20" steel plate 0.130" thick. All measurements are based on square to the condenser face. I plan to use M8 hardware.

I'll post more details once I confirm the mounting plate works.

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[SH!FT]

Quick update.

The chiller mounting plate is drilled, sandblasted, and painted. I should be test fitting it on Friday.

Mounted the drag valve switch below the HVAC cabin sensor.

The AeroForce water temp. sensor arrived today.

 

[smokescreens]

Looking glod so far. Looks like you have or know someone with a small mill?

 

[SH!FT]

Looking glod so far. Looks like you have or know someone with a small mill?

Luckily yes. Here's my benchtop setup at home.
I also have off shift access to the machine shop at work.

I will post prints and dimensions that are hand tool friendly.

 

[smokescreens]

Luckily yes. Here's my benchtop setup at home.
I also have off shift access to the machine shop at work.

I will post prints and dimensions that are hand tool friendly.

No machinist by trade but i like to play around a bit.

 

[SH!FT]

Chiller is mounted!!

 

[smokescreens]

That looks like its right at home.

 

[SH!FT]

A little too at home..
Needed to rotate the chiller 180 degrees, but it didn't want to unmount.

The insulation adhered to the bracket. Took 30 minutes to carefully scrape it off. I wrapped it the chiller bottom in foil tape and waxed the bracket surface so it doesn't happen again.

 

[RSKTAKR]

I'm about to pull the trigger on a Stage 2 Interchiller system for my 2013 Mustang GT with a VMP Gen3r. Ill get to ditch my VMP triple pass HE, the trunk mount ice tank and all the 1" hose running to and from that ice tank. I bought a engine bay VMP ice tank and ill move my EMP pump to the front of the car. cant wait to have some much cooler IAT's and not have to drain/fill an ice tank all the time. Not to mention the added weight.

 

[SH!FT]

Nice! Their new Ice tank should be perfect. I wish I could get it to fit with the Roush kit but their air box is huge.

Also look into a tubular crash bar if you plan to mount the chiller behind it with stage 2.
The chiller when mounted behind the OEM crash bar only leaves ~2.25" gap between the OEM condenser face.

Confirm with Kirk at FI, but based on their provided measurements you'll need over 160mm of space between the OEM condenser face and crash bar to fit the chiller and stage 2. The OEM bar only gave me ~5.75". I would really have to compromise the bar for stage 2 to fit.

 

[RSKTAKR]

Nice! Their new Ice tank should be perfect. I wish I could get it to fit with the Roush kit but their air box is huge.

Also look into a tubular crash bar if you plan to mount the chiller behind it with stage 2.
The chiller when mounted behind the OEM crash bar only leaves ~2.25" gap between the OEM condenser face.

Confirm with Kirk at FI, but based on their provided measurements you'll need over 160mm of space between the OEM condenser face and crash bar to fit the chiller and stage 2. The OEM bar only gave me ~5.75". I would really have to compromise the bar for stage 2 to fit.

I already have a tubular crash bar and a aftermarket kmemeber. I’m still not 100% dead set on a stage 2 kit because of possible space limitations even after I eliminate my triple pass.. but as cold as I could get would be badass. I haven’t asked Kirk yet what additional parts come with a stage2 kit but I was thinking it would be another chiller (making a total of two chillers) maybe?

 

[baevid]

It should be adding a 2nd condenser in a series along with all the proper supporting hardware.

 

[SH!FT]

Slight change in plans. I'll be recharging with 134a not 1234yf. R134a is cheaper and will perform better.

Also noting that the hose on the HVAC suction line of my 2020 is a 14 (~19mm ID) not a 12. Easy way to confirm is to remove the sheath then measure the hose OD. Mine is about 1-1/16" OD.

I would except a 12 suction hose OD to be around 7/8".

 

[engineermike]

Right, I noticed before that the boiling pressure/temp curve for yf1234 is extremely close to 134a, so they are likely interchangeable.

 

[SH!FT]

I already have a tubular crash bar and a aftermarket kmemeber. I’m still not 100% dead set on a stage 2 kit because of possible space limitations even after I eliminate my triple pass.. but as cold as I could get would be badass. I haven’t asked Kirk yet what additional parts come with a stage2 kit but I was thinking it would be another chiller (making a total of two chillers) maybe?

Talk to Kirk about your application. See what he recommends. I was told to leave room for stage 2.

My $0.02:
Go stage 2 if you're on the fence. Best to expose the HVAC to atmosphere and contaminates only once. Stage 1 requires a decent amount of fabrication that's likely not all that compatible for stage 2.

If I'm not happy with the stage 1 one results, I'll increase IC coolant capacity, improve tank and coolant hose insulation, and upgrade the IC pump before going stage 2.

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