The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[TeeLew]

Well I have it since 2018.
15k miles.
It does.a good job for 'normal HPDE speeds or time trials '
For endurance definetely small.

If you really have water temp under control, then we could run a oil-to-water heat exchanger which might be nice for packaging, but, at that point, all of our heat rejection would be through the water, so that might require auxiliary side radiators of roughly shifter kart dimensions. This is what Porsche does with their Cup cars. There are three water rads in each nose. Once built, bleeding a system like this could be a real bitch, but it would give the needed cooling capacity.

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[TeeLew]

Why are you bypassing the thermostat?
There is no upside to it, only downside

They do fail from time to time. One which isn't there can't fail.

 

[TeeLew]

Neither the GT

I didn't know that.

 

[TeeLew]

Are there 2 of him? I asked him just 2 days ago and said he only does 5.0 rads. I even mentioned the scca example and said nothing. Grrrr

Weird. There's only one that I know of.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Well I have it since 2018.
15k miles.
It does.a good job for 'normal HPDE speeds or time trials '
For endurance definetely small.
I have it without a thermostat.
For the 10speed guys. please remember to PUT IT IN THE LOWER GRILLE. Cause otherwise you cover your trans OEM cooler

Thanks Alessandro
I put my Mishimoto oil cooler in the upper grille, but put another larger aftermarket A10 Trans cooler in the lower grille. My trans temps have remained a consistent 200 while engine oil is almost in the red.

 

[Flyhalf]

Thanks Alessandro
I put my Mishimoto oil cooler in the upper grille, but put another larger aftermarket A10 Trans cooler in the lower grille. My trans temps have remained a consistent 200 while engine oil is almost in the red.

Almost is where will be. Red is 285f and yellow 270-285
(Or similar to that there is a thread somewhere with the exact same numbers)

 

[TeeLew]

Almost is where will be. Red is 285f and yellow 270-285
(Or similar to that there is a thread somewhere with the exact same numbers)

You've got a lot of faith in chemistry. That's, well....

 

[Flyhalf]

I don't pay too much attention for the.moment at the colored gauge.
Having a direct measurement absorb all my attention.
Ps. I do have a bigger radiator with CHT TEMPS around 200-218 now

 

[TundraOnKings]

Almost is where will be. Red is 285f and yellow 270-285
(Or similar to that there is a thread somewhere with the exact same numbers)

So you think I’m good to continue running at the 270-285 temp or should I continue to research a larger oil cooler? I never made it into the red the 2 days this year.
Last year I did make into the red, and it threw a Code for overheated engine oil.

 

[1 old racer]

I don't have all my cooling issues worked out just yet so I don't run in the heat... because of a two year business flight shut down I am flying all over the place. Which means I will not be doing any track days this year. But I keep researching all the forums on colling these things and I have 1 year and 8 months to get it figured out. Then this car and I have to be ready for some serious track time. That is when I retire from serious work.

 

[Flyhalf]

So you think I’m good to continue running at the 270-285 temp or should I continue to research a larger oil cooler? I never made it into the red the 2 days this year.
Last year I did make into the red, and it threw a Code for overheated engine oil.

Change oil more frequently . use an ticker oil than 5w30. 5w40 or even 5w50 IF mainly track(as recommended by Ford perf). Especially summertime

 

[NeverSatisfied]

I need to get a oil temp gauge on my setup.. I beat the hell out of it for 15 minutes chasing down a well driven ss1le during 70F ambient at Nelson’s. CHT never exceeded 210F with the mishi radiator, some boxing in, and racelouvers

It’s a Setrab 25 row I had leftover from a turbo Miata and Setrab sandwich plate with -10an. I like the Setrab plate better than other options, but no hole for a gauge.

 

[Plimmer]

So I eventually gave up on the large oil cooler in front of the radiator and made brackets to hold 2 smaller coolers in front of each wheel. It was a lot of custom, measure plenty times type work, but the end results seem good. The air comes in through the spot light holes, and then I made a box around each cooler to force air through. I drilled holes behind cooler in the wheel liner to let air out.

Also what I learned the hard way is oil coolers must be rubber mounted to prevent them from cracking. My old center cooler setup would crack every year because I didn’t mount it with rubber isolation.

 

[Flyhalf]

Fyi. I'm debating the future cooling setup.
Light yellow is radiator.
I dont have issue with the actual setup but my car is a time trials car
I did test multiple times for 15~20min with good success but i want to be sure to be able to substain w2w racing with traffic in case i go in that direction.
So attached a real size scheme with the options I'm evaluating.
Option4 is the less probable
But wanted to share it.
Please remember i have a 10speed bypass (who fixed together with the cooler all the overheating issues. ) And also no thermostat on oil. (again for time trials reason i can buy some time and also reduce the inlet air taping the lower grill to increase DF even more.

 

[paulm1]

read through the thread, incredible amount of great info here. Has anyone switched to a 170F T-stat and added some water wetter? I've done this to a few of my cars through the years (mostly camaros & vettes) and it helped with cooling quite a bit.

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