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2016 GT suspension recommendations

NightmareMoon

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Got it, so just stick with the stock equipment?
Yeah, if you aren’t constantly tweaking it and your alignment shop can manage. I’ve still got stock parts there and yes its a pain to adjust, but it can be done.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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So, updates;
IMG_20210507_214953.jpg

I got the Brembo PP brakes installed, as well as the foglight brake vent, BMR front sway bar and PP 3.73 rear diff and a RTR grill, because why not?

The 3.73 diff has gone slightly wrong and whirrs/hums, so if anyone has any experience with why it is making that noise, please give more information there! (Right now, I think it was that the shop forgot/chanced not replacing the crush sleeve when switching the pinion flange, throwing off the ring/pinion alignment)
PXL_20210507_235052946.jpg

But now something else has come up, I got a set of Steeda camber bolts installed so I can adjust around -2.5 degrees of camber in the front. However, the shop I brought it to said they could only get to -2.2 degrees of camber on the left front and -1.9 on the right front, with the caster dipping heavily when they tried to get any more camber.

The mechanic mentioned that the cam was too small to really get more camber out of them, I think he was referring to the cam lobe. He also mentioned that the brembo brakes got in the way of the nut, making adjusting hard. Anyone else have that issue? My current set up is;
  • Ford Performance Track Shock and Strut kit
  • Steeda Front Roll Center and Bumpsteer kit
  • Steeda Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings
  • BMR Rear Cradle Lockout kit
  • BMR Rear Shock Mount
  • BMR Handling Springs
  • SVE R357 Wheels (19x10 285/35 tires all around)
  • Brembo 6-piston PP brakes
  • JLT Brake Vent kit
  • BMR Front Sway Bar

Thanks in advance!
 

NightmareMoon

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Those camber bolts are not great compared to camber plates. You’ll get what you can get.

Normally I’ll remove the brakes and rotors (just two bolts) when dealing with those strut bolts because ya the calipers get in the way, but it sounds like he got what he could get from them.

hows the car drive?
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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Those camber bolts are not great compared to camber plates. You’ll get what you can get.

Normally I’ll remove the brakes and rotors (just two bolts) when dealing with those strut bolts because ya the calipers get in the way, but it sounds like he got what he could get from them.

hows the car drive?
Slightly pulling to the right, but not sure if that's the alignment or just the car reacting to the cross slope on the road. Unfortunately, I want to avoid driving it as much as possible to avoid stressing the diff, so I won't get much of a opportunity to suss out what is causing it.

Outside of that and the diff whirring, she's planted, responsive, corners extremely flat and grips like crazy. Once the diff is squared away, I can rest easy. Then, I start planning to get the LP 2018 intake and CAI combo, Boundary OPG/CS and a tune, I think that'll be it.
 

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NightmareMoon

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Ya get that diff checked out.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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On full lock, I'm hearing a distinct "clunk" from the front. Not sure what it could be, possibly the new brakes are hitting something?
 

shogun32

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possibly the new brakes are hitting something?
check your wheel barrel. But no, it's probably the spring 'setting' itself when being twisted instead of properly rotating.
 

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shogun32

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It's going on a lift soon, I'll ask them to check it out.
betcha they won't find anything on a lift. things have to be preloaded for it to show up. Have them put it on the 4-wheel lift/alignment rig and twist left and right and it may show.

How well were the bar bushings greased?
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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betcha they won't find anything on a lift. things have to be preloaded for it to show up. Have them put it on the 4-wheel lift/alignment rig and twist left and right and it may show.

How well were the bar bushings greased?
Not sure, but would that clunk due to steering input? It doesn't seem to make any sound when being driven over bumps.

Then again, car bangs going over any bump.
 

Brian@BMVK

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On full lock, I'm hearing a distinct "clunk" from the front. Not sure what it could be, possibly the new brakes are hitting something?
You may need to put the bar link on the inside of the bar OR move the link to the front side of the strut. It may be hitting the strut body.
 
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HourlyB

HourlyB

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You may need to put the bar link on the inside of the bar OR move the link to the front side of the strut. It may be hitting the strut body.
How serious is that issue? The shop is saying Monday is when they will have a bay open again.
 

shogun32

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How serious is that issue? The shop is saying Monday is when they will have a bay open again.
you can do it flat on the ground i think. 12mm wrench is all you need. Even better since everything will be weighted you can dial it in so you remove all preload.
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