2016 GT suspension recommendations

[HourlyB]

The thrust angle at the back is significant enough to feel in regular driving, as is the difference in L and R front camber. The total rear toe is pretty decent but it's not the same. While you're in there get the front toe back to zero or at least the same on both sides.

Just making sure I got the needed adjustments correct;

• Symmetrical camber at both front and rear
• Thrust angle should be at 0
• Front and rear toe set to 0

What should I have aim to be the settings? Or should I just request a symmetrical Performance Pack allignment specs?

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[Brian@BMVK]

Just making sure I got the needed adjustments correct;

• Symmetrical camber at both front and rear
• Thrust angle should be at 0
• Front and rear toe set to 0

What should I have aim to be the settings? Or should I just request a symmetrical Performance Pack allignment specs?

Do you have camber plates or bolts?

 

[HourlyB]

Do you have camber plates or bolts?

I do not. Should I just buy the BMRs?

 

[Brian@BMVK]

I do not. Should I just buy the BMRs?

I'm a fan of the J&M ones personally, having had both. It helps a lot. You could also just as soon do bolts if you're not looking for track-oriented camber capability, and just want to even them up. For any track intentions you're going to want at least -2.0 deg up front, even if you street drive it. Toe is what wears them, far more than camber. I've driven ~8,000 miles this year with -3.0 deg front and the wear is flat.

 

[HourlyB]

I'm a fan of the J&M ones personally, having had both. It helps a lot. You could also just as soon do bolts if you're not looking for track-oriented camber capability, and just want to even them up. For any track intentions you're going to want -2.0 deg up front, even if you street drive it. Toe is what wears them, far more than camber. I've driven ~8,000 miles this year with -3.0 deg front and the wear is flat.

Hmmm, bolts seem to be good for what I need, as long as they are quality. Might go for the Steeda bolts, unless BMR bolts have a better reputation. (Also not sure to what degree the Steeda's are adjustable to, but I can't imagine much difference between the two)

 

[Brian@BMVK]

Hmmm, bolts seem to be good for what I need, as long as they are quality. Might go for the Steeda bolts, unless BMR bolts have a better reputation. (Also not sure to what degree the Steeda's are adjustable to, but I can't imagine much difference between the two)

They're all basically the same.

 

[HourlyB]

They're all basically the same.

That's what I figured, but it never hurts to check. Will go with the Steedas, since shipping is cheaper, and hopefully I can find a code on here. I know Steeda has a pretty big presence on here..

 

[HourlyB]

I'm a fan of the J&M ones personally, having had both. It helps a lot. You could also just as soon do bolts if you're not looking for track-oriented camber capability, and just want to even them up. For any track intentions you're going to want at least -2.0 deg up front, even if you street drive it. Toe is what wears them, far more than camber. I've driven ~8,000 miles this year with -3.0 deg front and the wear is flat.

Alright, so the set up I have so far is;


Front Camber - -2.0 degrees
Rear Camber - Keep at -1.7 degrees
Front Toe - 0.2 Toe Out
Rear Toe - 0.2 Toe In
Get Thrust Angle to be 0

That correct?

 

[HourlyB]

I'll go for that then, especially since

 

[HourlyB]

So, got the camber bolts for the front, should I get anything for the rear camber? I know its adjustable from the factory, but would there be any benefit to camber arms or a adjustment kit? Just curious, I know adjustment is a pain with the stock equipment.

Kit
Arms

 

[HourlyB]

Hmmm, any other advantages? Because $440 is a lot for making maintenance easier, something that I already pay for.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Hmmm, any other advantages? Because $440 is a lot for making maintenance easier, something that I already pay for.

Nope thats all they do. Just make alignment easier and your wallet lighter.

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