2016 GT suspension recommendations

[HourlyB]

Since you live in a place that sees winter conditions, doesn't surprise me. My Steeda bumpsteer kit is rusted to hell. I am replacing it with J&M this week when I do coilovers.

This the J&M kit? It does look nice, if it turns out both sides of the Steeda kit are toast then I'll also do the upgrade, but if it is just the one side that's worn out, I'll just get a replacement from Steeda for $60 and hopefully it lasts another 3 years.

The spherical bearing you can buy for the front control arms: Steeda, J&M, Cortex, etc. - those are for the tension links. The roll center correction arms that Steeda sells are the lateral links. Yes, for me, the bearings in the tension links are worth it to me for the direct steering response they give. And there is no more lag or dead zone in the steering. There is a little NVH with these bearings but worth it for me personally. Your opinion may vary.

Ahhhh gotcha. I'll just double check which control arm bushings are going.

But looking at this old pic, I think that's the tension link bushing with all that rust, which I haven't replaced, and in that case, it'll have been on the car for 61k miles/~8 years.

That would probably be far more reasonable for it to be failing, and in that case is there any substantial difference in quality between Cortex/Steeda/J&M? Or is the quality typically the same.

maybe my bumpsteer was not configured right the first time, but one of my rods failed within 90 days of install - major slop in the chassis end bearing. Replaced both with Moog parts and this time a different mech did the work and I'm guess it was done right because it's been fine for 2+ years.

Hmmmm, interesting. Definitely seems like a YMMV situation, or that the Steeda/tie rods are very suseptible to . Interesting the Moog (hopefully that's the right part) works as a bumpsteer, unless you haven't lowered your car much as I have.

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[shogun32]

Hmmmm, interesting. Definitely seems like a YMMV situation, or that the Steeda/tie rods are very suseptible to . Interesting the Moog (hopefully that's the right part) works as a bumpsteer, unless you haven't lowered your car much as I have.

The Ford inner tie rod bearing failed. The Steeda bumpsteer kit replaces the OUTer tie rod. The Steeda part is just fine. The INNer rods were replaced.

 

[HourlyB]

This the J&M kit? It does look nice, if it turns out both sides of the Steeda kit are toast then I'll also do the upgrade, but if it is just the one side that's worn out, I'll just get a replacement from Steeda for $60 and hopefully it lasts another 3 years.


Ahhhh gotcha. I'll just double check which control arm bushings are going.

But looking at this old pic, I think that's the tension link bushing with all that rust, which I haven't replaced, and in that case, it'll have been on the car for 61k miles/~8 years.

That would probably be far more reasonable for it to be failing, and in that case is there any substantial difference in quality between Cortex/Steeda/J&M? Or is the quality typically the same.


Hmmmm, interesting. Definitely seems like a YMMV situation, or that the Steeda/tie rods are very suseptible to . Interesting the Moog (hopefully that's the right part) works as a bumpsteer, unless you haven't lowered your car much as I have.

Actually building off of this, the tension links I have are stock GT ones, without the brake deflector, would any of the aftermarket bushings/bearings fit? I've heard that PP LCAs have a different bushing, but unsure if the diameter is different or if it's just the material. Would it be better to just buy a set of PP tension link control arms with bearings fitted?

 

[Bluemustang]

Actually building off of this, the tension links I have are stock GT ones, without the brake deflector, would any of the aftermarket bushings/bearings fit? I've heard that PP LCAs have a different bushing, but unsure if the diameter is different or if it's just the material. Would it be better to just buy a set of PP tension link control arms with bearings fitted?

The arms should be the same. The base GT ones just don't have the brake air deflectors. The bearings simply get pressed in. I like these personally.

https://hotpart.com/product/2015-20...r-front-control-arm-spherical-caster-bushing/

The Cortex and Steeda ones should also fit.

 

[HourlyB]

Was able to get under the car, and yeah it wasn't fantastic. Lots of rust on the outer tie rod and a bit of movement in the bushings on both sides. They suggested just replacing the outer tie rods on both sides, since while it didn't have the movement it still looked pretty rusted.

So now I'm just left at the crossroads of polyurethane versus spherical. Honestly, given this car sees far far far far far far faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar more street miles than track ones, and winters and New England potholes, I'm actually leaning more towards the poly bushings, since people talk about the bearings as wearing down a lot and being tended towards 'racecar' only.

 

[Bluemustang]

Was able to get under the car, and yeah it wasn't fantastic. Lots of rust on the outer tie rod and a bit of movement in the bushings on both sides. They suggested just replacing the outer tie rods on both sides, since while it didn't have the movement it still looked pretty rusted.

So now I'm just left at the crossroads of polyurethane versus spherical. Honestly, given this car sees far far far far far far faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar more street miles than track ones, and winters and New England potholes, I'm actually leaning more towards the poly bushings, since people talk about the bearings as wearing down a lot and being tended towards 'racecar' only.

There's other companies making poly bushings for the front arms. My buddy installed the Superpro bushings in the rear lower control arm and it worked out great. I am pretty sure they make em for the front arms too.

 

[HourlyB]

Wait. Hang on, just realized that the arm with is the lateral link/lower control arm, not the tension link/upper. Which it seems like you can't just replace the bushing on, I need a entirely new set of arms.

Sucks. Also, I'm guessing the front bolt and nut will need to replaced as well? If so, it's part no 6 on this diagram, right?

There's other companies making poly bushings for the front arms. My buddy installed the Superpro bushings in the rear lower control arm and it worked out great. I am pretty sure they make em for the front arms too.

But you are right about the bushings!

Now I'm wondering if I should replace the tension link bushings as well. Given my car's issue of rubbing on the inner lining, I might go for them since some guys talked about using the adjustable caster to widen the track width. I have Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates, I should be able to adjust the camber to make up for the reduction in caster.

 

[Bluemustang]

Wait. Hang on, just realized that the arm with is the lateral link/lower control arm, not the tension link/upper. Which it seems like you can't just replace the bushing on, I need a entirely new set of arms.

Sucks. Also, I'm guessing the front bolt and nut will need to replaced as well? If so, it's part no 6 on this diagram, right?



But you are right about the bushings!

Now I'm wondering if I should replace the tension link bushings as well. Given my car's issue of rubbing on the inner lining, I might go for them since some guys talked about using the adjustable caster to widen the track width. I have Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates, I should be able to adjust the camber to make up for the reduction in caster.

No one I know makes bearings or alternate bushings for the lateral arm, but I could be mistaken. I haven't researched it extensively. I've just never seen one.

Fwiw it's worth, with the Steeda roll center correction arms and MM plates my caster is 6.9 (stock). Prior to the arms it was high 7s almost 8. I can't comment on the track width and caster relationship specifically. Running more caster will increase steering effort, esp. at low speeds BUT it has the added benefit of increasing camber lean in corners. Maxing out the caster is a common thing for cars with the McPherson strut. It helps a little bit so you can run a little less static negative camber.

 

[HourlyB]

No one I know makes bearings or alternate bushings for the lateral arm, but I could be mistaken. I haven't researched it extensively. I've just never seen one.

Unfortunately yeah, it seems like the entire lateral arm is a disposable part, as are the nuts and bolts, even though Steeda says to reused them.

Fwiw it's worth, with the Steeda roll center correction arms and MM plates my caster is 6.9 (stock). Prior to the arms it was high 7s almost 8. I can't comment on the track width and caster relationship specifically. Running more caster will increase steering effort, esp. at low speeds BUT it has the added benefit of increasing camber lean in corners. Maxing out the caster is a common thing for cars with the McPherson strut. It helps a little bit so you can run a little less static negative camber.

The track width comment was in relation to this message from the other thread; (Rereading it, it might not be referring to track width, but I do not know what track would mean in any other context)

in the 3 o'clock position, which widens the track and reduces caster. I haven't tested other options, but this is definitely one of the factors which allows me to run a lot of front camber.

When I got the plates installed they set the caster to 7 degrees and the camber to -2.3 degrees symmetrical at the front. So just slightly increased caster over stock. I'm not sure if I really need to replace the tension arm bushings

I'm going to jack the front of the car up and check to see if there's any play with the tension link/arm, would this 'guide' be a good indicator for if I should get those bushings replaced?

Here is my best effort, sorry. Green motion is OK, red motion is bad.

 

[TeeLew]

I'm going to jack the front of the car up and check to see if there's any play with the tension link/arm, would this 'guide' be a good indicator for if I should get those bushings replaced?

If it's stock it needs replaced, even if in pristine condition. The question is whether you go with the Poly Bush or spherical. I think either is a good option. The offset poly bushing allows for more camber, so that does make it attractive, but getting it reduces caster, so not ideal.

-2.3* is a good street setting for front camber, but it's not enough for the track.

 

[HourlyB]

If it's stock it needs replaced, even if in pristine condition. The question is whether you go with the Poly Bush or spherical. I think either is a good option. The offset poly bushing allows for more camber, so that does make it attractive, but getting it reduces caster, so not ideal.

Gotcha, do the spherical bushings hold up to being used on the street, especially winter weather? I've read that sphericals tend to be made for track only purposes, as in street miles and weather causes them to break down compared to poly, on top of some of them needing to be lubed.

If that isn't a issue, then I might go with the J&M set. But if rust/salt is a issue, I will probably go for the poly, and if that track width difference is enough, the superpros, since I've been rubbing the inside of my tires on the splash guard for a while now.

-2.3* is a good street setting for front camber, but it's not enough for the track.

I think the main issue is the Mustang is my daily, so I'm a little limited in the amount of camber I can use without toasting the inside of my tires.

And at the moment, I doubt I would be able to make much use of any additional handling benefits that additional negative camber would give me; I'm way too slow.

 

[TeeLew]

It will probably depend on how nasty of an environment you are driving in, but I can vouch for 35+k miles on the SuperPro bushings and they're still in good shape, but in CA, so a relatively nice environment. Just make sure you butter them up good when you put them in.

The PP cars come standard with a spherical on the lateral link. Maybe they wouldn't live as long on the tension link, but I'd guess you could get 15 or 20k out of them at bare minimum.

 

[HourlyB]

It will probably depend on how nasty of an environment you are driving in, but I can vouch for 35+k miles on the SuperPro bushings and they're still in good shape, but in CA, so a relatively nice environment. Just make sure you butter them up good when you put them in.

Unfortunately New England isn't known for having weather as nice as Cali. I think I'm more worried about the possibility of the metal bearings wearing, either the ball bearings getting corroded or getting just worn down due to the street miles. Poly most people talk about squeaking/creaking over wearing out due to weather or bumps.

The PP cars come standard with a spherical on the lateral link. Maybe they wouldn't live as long on the tension link, but I'd guess you could get 15 or 20k out of them at bare minimum.

Huh, didn't know that. I thought it was just a standard rubber bushing across all the lateral links.

 

[Bluemustang]

Unfortunately New England isn't known for having weather as nice as Cali. I think I'm more worried about the possibility of the metal bearings wearing, either the ball bearings getting corroded or getting just worn down due to the street miles. Poly most people talk about squeaking/creaking over wearing out due to weather or bumps.



Huh, didn't know that. I thought it was just a standard rubber bushing across all the lateral links.

I have my Steeda front control arm bearing in there for 3 years. I live in Maryland where we do get snow. No squeaking or creaking for me fwiw.

 

[TeeLew]

I went with the SuperPro's for longevity. They've been good for me. If you grease them once a year, I can't see how you could go too wrong. I think they give 95% of the gain of the sphericals without any real downside.

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