2016 GT suspension recommendations

[Bluemustang]

I went with the SuperPro's for longevity. They've been good for me. If you grease them once a year, I can't see how you could go too wrong. I think they give 95% of the gain of the sphericals without any real downside.

I probably prefer this option TeeLew, and for the rear lower control arm as well. If I had known these existed back then, I'd have gone SuperPro.

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[HourlyB]

I have my Steeda front control arm bearing in there for 3 years. I live in Maryland where we do get snow. No squeaking or creaking for me fwiw.

Gotcha, I did give J&M a call asking about their castor bearing and they said it wasn't really made for winter conditions.

I absolutely trust that Steeda makes a terrific part, about half the parts I have are Steeda, the other half are BMR. I'm just not sure if it's worth ~$100 over the SuperPros.

I went with the SuperPro's for longevity. They've been good for me. If you grease them once a year, I can't see how you could go too wrong. I think they give 95% of the gain of the sphericals without any real downside.

Gotcha, did they come with grease or did you buy some White Line bushing lube or something else?

Also, going back to the track width thing, would setting it to the negative caster position (which I believe has the hole facing the outside of the vehicle) fix about this amount of rubbing? Or are we talking about millimeters against what's probably around a half a inch of rubbing (iirc, 5mm spacers didn't solve the issue entirely) And would correcting the castor back to 7 degrees via the plates just remove the added track width anyway?

Thanks for the responses guys, I'm still trying to figure out the best path forward.

 

[bnightstar]

Or are we talking about millimeters against what's probably around a half a inch of rubbing (iirc, 5mm spacers didn't solve the issue entirely) And would correcting the castor back to 7 degrees via the plates just remove the added track width anyway?


Thanks for the responses guys, I'm still trying to figure out the best path forward.

For the rubbing there are kits that suppose to fix it like this from steeda:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-8602-s55-steering-rack-limiter-stops

Rosch also have a kit but Steeda one looks easier to install

 

[WD Pro]

The PP cars come standard with a spherical on the lateral link. Maybe they wouldn't live as long on the tension link, but I'd guess you could get 15 or 20k out of them at bare minimum.

Huh, didn't know that. I thought it was just a standard rubber bushing across all the lateral links.

Note that although its a spherical, it's a rubber booted spherical :

i.e. it's not 100% comparable to a typical aftermarket 'open' spherical if environmental factors are a consideration

WD

 

[kz]

Note that although its a spherical, it's a rubber booted spherical :



i.e. it's not 100% comparable to a typical aftermarket 'open' spherical if environmental factors are a consideration

WD

I've wanted to mention that - same thing in the rear - Ford spherical bearing have rubber protection unlike anything aftermarket which is just exposed bearing.

 

[WD Pro]

Not quite, look what J&M did after a little nudge :

WD

Edit for spelling ...

 

[HourlyB]

For the rubbing there are kits that suppose to fix it like this from steeda:

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-8602-s55-steering-rack-limiter-stops

Rosch also have a kit but Steeda one looks easier to install

Huh, I wonder how much they effect the turn radius? I'll probably still get them but it would be nice to know.

Note that although its a spherical, it's a rubber booted spherical :

i.e. it's not 100% comparable to a typical aftermarket 'open' spherical if environmental factors are a consideration

WD

Ohhhhh! Interesting, that could explain why mine are worn out; toughened up suspension means they got hammered out of shape.

Not quite, look what J&M did after a little nudge :

WD

Edit for spelling ...

Wow, those are pretty! And that's a good feature, maybe they can develop something similar for their caster bearing as well. (not sure when my vertical links are getting upgraded, but it's definitely on the list)

I think after everything is said and done, I'm going to go with the SuperPro polys, the worst case is that it might squeak over possibly wearing out and needing to be replaced entirely. Called SuperPro and they said they should be winter resistant.

 

[TeeLew]

The SuperPro's come with a small tube, but I had some of the Energy Suspension stuff that I used, too. What they come with is enough, but I put more on and then cleaned it up later.

If you go full width, it should help with rubbing the inner forward fender liner. It moves the wheel center back and outboard, so it should work in your favor. It won't change anything if you're rubbing on the strut. The total bushing offset is about 10mm. I'm not sure what that turns into at the wheel center, probably 3-4m?

If you correct the caster back to 7*, then you'd do that with the top of the strut. That doesn't effect track width, but it will tend to increase camber as you steer, which may again cause the touching. You'll just have to see. I'm running my caster full back on both sides with the arms extended. I don't know the actual measured number, because I've never been on a pad to do it, but it's a reasonable compromise.

 

[HourlyB]

The SuperPro's come with a small tube, but I had some of the Energy Suspension stuff that I used, too. What they come with is enough, but I put more on and then cleaned it up later.

If you go full width, it should help with rubbing the inner forward fender liner. It moves the wheel center back and outboard, so it should work in your favor. It won't change anything if you're rubbing on the strut. The total bushing offset is about 10mm. I'm not sure what that turns into at the wheel center, probably 3-4m?

If you correct the caster back to 7*, then you'd do that with the top of the strut. That doesn't effect track width, but it will tend to increase camber as you steer, which may again cause the touching. You'll just have to see. I'm running my caster full back on both sides with the arms extended. I don't know the actual measured number, because I've never been on a pad to do it, but it's a reasonable compromise.

Hmmm, I don't know how comfortable I am going hog wild with suspension geometry changes trying to fix something over just having the rack spacers installed, y'know?

 

[TeeLew]

Fair enough. I'm not trying to convince you to do anything. I'm just sharing what I know. In that case, Energy Suspension has a Poly bushing that is on center. That would give you the gain in stiffness/response without having to run an unprotected spherical and without using an offset bushing.

Maybe that could be of interest?

 

[HourlyB]

Fair enough. I'm not trying to convince you to do anything. I'm just sharing what I know. In that case, Energy Suspension has a Poly bushing that is on center. That would give you the gain in stiffness/response without having to run an unprotected spherical and without using an offset bushing.

Maybe that could be of interest?

Already bought the SuperPros based both on your recommendation and the fact that SuperPro seem to be universally liked for their products, I can just ask for them to be installed in the 12 o'clock neutral castor position.

I suppose the question would be this; what would the total effect of the reduced caster be, are there any other reasons to do it for handling or is there not much of a point given power steering? Also, I haven't had too many issues with oversteer, though I also don't drive my car especially hard even on the track.

 

[TeeLew]

In the ranges we're talking about, I don't think most people could tell the difference. More caster will give more weight jacking and tend to turn the car more for a given steering angle. This is more noticeable in slow corners with lots of steering. Adding caster will add a small amount of negative camber to the outside front tire when steered, so this will also tend to increase front grip. When you get too much caster, the steering tends to get a little 'floppy' at high angles and inside rear wheelspin becomes an issue.

In these ranges, though, the differences aren't that big. Set them up neutral and you're good.

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