2016 GT suspension recommendations

[Mach VII]

@SAY WHAT @Mach VII

So, the spacers did not solve the rubbing issue, but only on the passenger side. Driver side was fine.

It was only on full lock and still slight, but definitely there. I took video, but oops, "file size too large"

So, I "hot rod-ed" aka "did a shitty bodge job but i mean i guess it works for the time and it's better than doing nothing and at least nothing important got damaged".
I cut the area that was scraping with some shears and then used a file to make the edges softer and less jagged, then I put some neon green duct tape on so that I can more easily check for marks if the rubbing remains a issue.

Took it for a couple loops in the cul-de-sac. Not sure if it's rubbing or not, but duct tape will offer more cushion than basically self sharpening plastic. When I get my brakes job done, I ask if they can provide a more permanent solution.







Oh, also the lug nuts stay torqued now.

View attachment 491845 View attachment 491847

Well damn, that is interesting. I wonder if you could massage that area with heat instead of cutting it like you did. Guess I'll find out soon enough, wheels are ordered!

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[HourlyB]

Oh, also the lug nuts stay torqued now.

View attachment 491845 View attachment 491847

Addendum. They still do not.


Those plates are coming off when I get the brakes done. Maybe Sullivan tire can do a better job removing and patching the rubbing area then I could.

Also, just wondering, how fragile is this suspension set up? I've had to drive along I95 recently, and I'm not sure how MassDOT can let pavement get THAT BAD. I hit a patch that made the front driver side max out and made a upsettingly loud noise. Maybe it's just my imagination, but the steering doesn't feel as sharp as when I first got it. I'm going to get the alignment checked with the brakes.

And I only now realize this is a bit late, but what should my tire pressure be? Cold it seems to be 36 psi, but hot it gets up to 38/39.

 

[Bluemustang]

Too high tire pressure. Lower it down 30 cold and try that. 32 max. 36 cold is way too high imho.

 

[OzS550]

I would have thought 36 cold was fine. All defensive driving courses I’ve done want at least that.

 

[OzS550]

Not for this vehicle & tires.

Interesting. Tyre width a factor here?

Instructors talk about higher pressures to prevent sidewall flex and overheating the tyre.

Does the width of the tread tend to mitigate that risk?

Anything about the S550 chassis a specific factor as well?

Edit: I've gone out at lunchtime and lowered my pressures to 32psi to try it.

 

[shogun32]

I would have thought 36 cold was fine. All defensive driving courses I’ve done want at least that.

they WANT you to lose control - deal with reduced traction scenarios. Last I checked protective service drove 5500lb SUV on poor tires or Crown Vics with likewise, so maximal traction is not the name of the game. For street/DD I run 275/35 at 34 cold for wheel protection. Plus the tires are Conti's so the sidewall is very soft compared to some other brands.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Interesting. Tyre width a factor here?

Instructors talk about higher pressures to prevent sidewall flex and overheating the tyre.

Does the width of the tread tend to mitigate that risk?

Anything about the S550 chassis a specific factor as well?

Edit: I've gone out at lunchtime and lowered my pressures to 32psi to try it.

If you're driving aggressively, something like 36psi HOT is a good target. For street use that will wear out the center of the tire too fast tho (you won't get the full life out of the tread) and the road ride will be rougher than it needs to be. 32psi cold (and a few PSI higher when warmed up) is the recommended for a mix of traction and road comfort.

 

[OzS550]

Higher pressures -> more heat -> higher pressures

The load rating and spring rate of the tire comes into play here. On stock or nearly stock sizes, 32 cold is the recommended pressure for a balance of sidewall stability, wear, load capability and ride quality.

As you go wider, it's often optimal to reduce pressure somewhat to allow for a larger contact patch (not just different shape), and because wider tires have higher load ratings.

I would say the concern re excessive sidewall flex leading to an overheated tyre would apply to under inflated tyres, and 32 is certainly not under inflated. I wouldn’t feel comfortable with anything less and would go higher in a taller tyre.

 

[OzS550]

I said wider, not taller. If you don't go to less pressure on a wider tire you're not taking advantage of what a wider tire offers. Racing tires are often inflated to 22-24 psi cold. Track oriented street tires 27-29 is typical. You're overblowing the concern. Tires are much better today than 20+ years ago.

Yes, understood Brian you were referring to wider tyres. Appreciate your input and about to order the Steeda front roll center and bumpsteer correction because of you!

Re camber post installation, I understand I'm aiming for -1.5 ~ -1.8. I'm hoping not to need camber plates ($495- here in Oz plus the more involved install). Is this target camber achievable without plates? If needed, will camber bolts do for a 98% street car?

Thanks.

 

[HourlyB]

Update: Took off the spacers, and mixed results. After taking a drive up to Seaport on I93 & getting some afternoon seaside driving along 3A in Weymouth/Hingham (about 67 miles of both highway and street driving, never exceeding 85), the lug nuts were loose. Not crazy loose, only tightened about 3 or 5 degrees. But after over 80 miles of highway and street driving to the Cape for a job, driving on worse roads, the lug nuts were fine.
At this point I've decided whatever, I'll just keep checking them periodically.

Welcome to hot rodding lol.

 

[Brian@BMVK]

So you're saying it's not the spacers...

I'd try some different lug nuts.

 

[HourlyB]

So you're saying it's not the spacers...

I'd try some different lug nuts.

Lug nuts haven't been loose since I've been testing. Again, I'll keep a eye on it, but as far as I've tested with the torque wrench, even after some hard drives the nuts are fine.
I did have a extremely loud scraping noise happen when I was pulling out of my driveway to get groceries. But as soon as I stopped the car, the noise stopped and didn't come back when I set off again. No obvious fluid leaks, either before or after, nor did the mustang do anything strange. My guess is that a pebble got caught between a brake rotor and a shield.

I did notice this large scratch on the passenger side shock tower. Not present on the driver side. Doesn't seem to have pierced through, but is this a issue that I should be concerned about?

 

[HourlyB]

So, update so far;

Just took off the Indy 500 summer wheels and put my Blizzacks back on, after about 6k miles. One thing I will say is that compared to the stock 18" rims, the 19"x10" rims are much much heavier. It feels a little bit slower, but definitely not sluggish. The car also had to idle a bit higher when cruising on the highway, and drank a bit more fuel. On the thinner tires, the car does feel more lively and nervous, probably because of the decreased wheel weight and losing the grip a 285 summer compound offered.

Did have a bit of a scare when a snowstorm came into Boston on the 30th and I had to drive with my summer tires on. But still, if anyone wants a very communicative and compliant setup for their Mustang, I'd highly suggest going with what I have bought so far.

But onto the next upgrades, hopefully to be put on next spring;

• BMR Front Sway Bar (SB044)
• BMR Adjustable Camber Plates (CP001)
• Perf Pack Brembo front brakes
• JLT Front Brake Vent kit
• New Pads and Rotors for the rear brakes

After that, I'm going to sell the 18" wheel setup and buy four 19x9 Ford Perf Pack wheels and put Nokian Hakka R3s on so the Brembos are clear.

 

[Norm Peterson]

Your Blizzaks' grip may improve slightly with driving. I've consistently noticed tire grip to be a bit 'off' in the first few drives after taking them out of storage and swapping, that recovers a bit. On both ends of the cold season.


Norm

 

[GreenS550]

. Personally I'd do the CB005 and skip the stop the hop kit.

Yep.

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