2016 GT suspension recommendations

[JustDSM]

@HourlyB you've got an amazing car sir!

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[Bluemustang]

@HourlyB you've got an amazing car sir!

Agreed. What a transformation. @HourlyB - your impressions are many of the same that I had. You have a legit sport suspension now. A little harshness is to be expected but tbh in my stock base car it was also harsh in many situations, but harsh and uncontrolled. That control and directness is the key. One up, one down. No oscillation or excessive bouncing.

 

[HourlyB]

@HourlyB you've got an amazing car sir!

Thank you! Your one is a beast! I've still some more small modifications I want to make before I start to take it to Auto-X or track days, mainly just get the brake fluid and pads changed. Still have to choose a name.

Agreed. What a transformation. @HourlyB - your impressions are many of the same that I had. You have a legit sport suspension now. A little harshness is to be expected but tbh in my stock base car it was also harsh in many situations, but harsh and uncontrolled. That control and directness is the key. One up, one down. No oscillation or excessive bouncing.

Exactly, a carbon steel blade is more controllable than one made of gold. Have to keep inertia under control. The Mustang was already a pretty sporty car, but it felt almost boat-y in comparison to what it is now. Maybe that's just my memory lol.

 

[HourlyB]

Small update, but I've noticed a slight issue, only really comes up when I screw up parking into my garage, but the front wheels will rub when on full lock. It's the front edge of the wheels rubbing (so right wheel is rubbing when full left, left wheel rubs on full right) is there any way to stop it? My guess is the pebble/mud guard is interfering.

 

[HourlyB]

Try getting some 5 mm slip on spacers.

Any idea if this is a good brand? https://www.americanmuscle.com/wheel-spacer-316in-9412.html
I know it's a piece of aluminum with holes in it, but never bad to be too careful. Plus, if there is a better/cheaper option out there, I'll go for that option.
Side track - Floor jack, I need one. Would this one (https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...-low-profile-rapid-pump-floor-jack-64264.html) work?

 

[Bluemustang]

I have that same floor jack, works good gets the job done.

 

[Mach VII]

Small update, but I've noticed a slight issue, only really comes up when I screw up parking into my garage, but the front wheels will rub when on full lock. It's the front edge of the wheels rubbing (so right wheel is rubbing when full left, left wheel rubs on full right) is there any way to stop it? My guess is the pebble/mud guard is interfering.

Hmmm what offset did you go with, 35 or 40? Might just convince me to change my choice vs running spacers...

 

[HourlyB]

Hmmm what offset did you go with, 35 or 40? Might just convince me to change my choice vs running spacers...

The R357 has a offset of +35mm. https://lmr.com/item/WK-357906A/mustang-sve-r357-wheel-kit-19x10-bronze-1519

 

[HourlyB]

Still trying to keep it to one thread, but now for brake stuff;

The pads are getting to the end of their life, so I'm going to replace both the pads as well as the fluid.
I'm going to be going to use Motul RBF 600 fluid (https://www.amazon.com/Motul-MTL100949-Factory-Percent-Synthetic/dp/B07KY29S4L?th=1)
But I'm not sure which brake pads to get. Kinda?
I know Norm Petersen already suggested on here using Carbotech brake pads (https://ctbrakes.com/), but I'm not sure which pad type to go with. Since this is going to be a daily driver for the winter, I was thinking of going with the 1521 pads. Anything above that might have more issues in the Massachusetts winter. Are there any other pads that offers a better performance in all seasons?
And finally, I've heard mixed opinions (thanks, Engineering Explained) on replacing the stock rubber brake lines with stainless steel ones, would it be worth it to get them installed as well? They don't seem to be too expensive overall (front lines - https://www.cjponyparts.com/stoptec...-ecoboost-performance-pack-2015-2020/p/BHS68/, rear lines - https://www.cjponyparts.com/wilwood-rear-brake-hose-kit-flexline-v6-ecoboost-gt-2015-2020/p/BHS64/), but I'm guessing the work is what is going to be what drives the price up, and it might not be worth it overall.
Thanks in advance!

 

[HourlyB]

So, bought a set of Eibach 5mm spacers (https://www.cjponyparts.com/eibach-...lac_guid=c8548edf-3ec8-ea11-8348-0050568938fc) and put them on my car yesterday, and there is a problem. I also finally saw where they were rubbing.

(Passenger side)

(Driver side)
I torqued the wheels down yesterday, and after about 50 miles of driving, about 40 of which were on the highway, I checked the lug nuts again, and they were loose. Not crazy loose or anything, and there wasn't any wobble or vibrations while driving, but I still had to torque the nuts about a 1/4 of a turn to spec (150 lbs).
So, the options;

1. Take the spacers off and just cut the part of plastic liner that is rubbing off, cover the hole with like 5 layers of duct tape and try to return the spacers to CJ
2. Buy some Locktite and put it on.

To be honest, I prefer the first option to trusting a chemical compound to hold the wheel. What is exactly behind the pseudo-cone? And is there a guide to removing and reinstalling the liner?

 

[HourlyB]

Which lug nuts are you using?

Generic Autozone spline drive kit (https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/wheel-nut/white-knight-wheel-nut-743809/883498_0_0), because the SVE wheels spline drive kit got lost in shipping. The front wheels lug nuts were fine before (torqued them after 500 miles), and the rear wheels are still fine.

 

[SAY WHAT]

You still have some rubbing with et35+5mm spacer? I'm about to jump the gun on some apex ec7wheels 19x10 et 40. I have the same struts and shocks so I am a bit worried now.

 

[HourlyB]

You still have some rubbing with et35+5mm spacer? I'm about to jump the gun on some apex ec7wheels 19x10 et 40. I have the same struts and shocks so I am a bit worried now.

No, the rubbing issue is solved. Just a new issue with the lug nuts loosening.

 

[HourlyB]

You still have some rubbing with et35+5mm spacer? I'm about to jump the gun on some apex ec7wheels 19x10 et 40. I have the same struts and shocks so I am a bit worried now.

Actually, I'll double check it ASAP. I'll say this, I did not hear rubbing on full lock in either direction when I tested by doing as tight of a circle as possible in my cul-de-sac.

 

[HourlyB]

@SAY WHAT @Mach VII

So, the spacers did not solve the rubbing issue, but only on the passenger side. Driver side was fine.

It was only on full lock and still slight, but definitely there. I took video, but oops, "file size too large"

So, I "hot rod-ed" aka "did a shitty bodge job but i mean i guess it works for the time and it's better than doing nothing and at least nothing important got damaged".
I cut the area that was scraping with some shears and then used a file to make the edges softer and less jagged, then I put some neon green duct tape on so that I can more easily check for marks if the rubbing remains a issue.

Took it for a couple loops in the cul-de-sac. Not sure if it's rubbing or not, but duct tape will offer more cushion than basically self sharpening plastic. When I get my brakes job done, I ask if they can provide a more permanent solution.







Oh, also the lug nuts stay torqued now.

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