BBQ Tick After Oil Change...

[Kong76]

Really wish they would have installed those heavy duty opg when they had it all apart. Would have been an extra 10 minutes. They wanted $900 labor.

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[Kong76]

Who is going to be the first to try that $100 syringe? Curious how thick that Tribotex is.

 

[NoVaGT]

FWIW, my tick that started with a Royal Purple oil change has gone away after a few thousand miles.

I think I'll use Mobil 1 from now on.

 

[accel]

FWIW, my tick that started with a Royal Purple oil change has gone away after a few thousand miles.

I think I'll use Mobil 1 from now on.

I'm ticking on Mobil 1. Ceratec additive pretty much eliminated it.

Will switch to Castrol Edgr 5w30. My tick was before oil change was made.

 

[barron64]

I finally got around to my first oil change at 4500 mi. Used Mobile 1, 5w-30wt and a Purolator Boss filter. Tick sound is very intermittent at this point. Best way to not hear it is to have your phone ready for some video of the sound and it will be quiet, lol. I have heard it occasionally at start up, the same for the hot restart. Never any tick after driving the car for a while and then listening at idle. For the short term I may add the Cera-Tec additive. May run some Rotella 5w-40 for next change but that will be well into next year at this point. Maybe Ford will figure this out in a TSB between now and then.

 

[scotty]

Well, Alex Flores from Lund Racing now has the tick as well - this should be interesting to follow....

 

[Kong76]

Ford is blaming its problems on tarriffs but I think they need money for the upcoming class action lawsuit. They know there is a problem, they know what it is( typewriter tick) and they know it affects a lot of model years.

 

[TheLion]

By the way I wanted to note something in case anyone else experiences this. Ever since installing the JLT3.0 I noticed a metallic dust in the catch can. Seems to vary in how much, some times there's a lot and other times there's very little. It may correlate to hard use or it may not. And it's not a one time thing, I've emptied the can about 5 times now every 1k miles and some is there each time, a few times almost none was in there, while others quite a bit. So it cannot be from the threads or the filter element as many believed (which are also coated in oil).

The JLT3.0 uses a fine mesh screen filter and honey comb, so there's nothing up in the filtering area to really "shed debris". Also if it was from the machining process it would be a one time thing. This occurs nearly every time the can fills up. So either my 5.0 is going to die (hard to believe considering how well it's running and how many miles are already on it) or it's from the oil.

I'm also running TriboTEX MSH in the Diesel concentration (2 grams of MSH), which has about 2,000 miles on it now, so the DLC coating should be well formed now. The dust was there before and after TriboTEX and hasn't seemed to change in the amount, but has been something I've kept an eye on. I did some digging and found these threads with completely different engines noticing the same exact thing and it's not a one time occurrence in any of them either:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forum...ert-do-you-have-fairy-dust-in-your-oil-4.html

https://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/5-wk1-srt8-general-discussion/20400-metal-dust-catchcan.html

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/137586-fine-metal-particles-pcv-catch-can.html

https://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f5/metal-catch-can-40563/

https://www.challengerforumz.com/threads/catch-can-oil-now-with-metal-shavings.67107/

What is the primary anti-wear additive in motor oil? Zinc Dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP), which is Zinc bound to the anion of a dialkyldithiophosphoric acid. What does pure zinc look like? Like this:

Or this:

So, what's that "fairy dust" or "gold dust" as it's been coined in the catch can? I believe it to be zinc that has decomposed and separated from the metal surfaces due to heat and pressure or possibly being pulled out of suspension in vaporized oil that is now chemically broken down (that which is in the catch can). The tribofilms formed by ZDDP on load surfaces form much more rapidly than something like hBN or MSH tribofilms, but they also break down much more rapidly as well and the ZDDP DLC needs to be re-applied with every oil change, hence why your motor oil uses ZDDP in various forms.

It's possible in my case that TriobTEX may increase the zinc formation as it's taking the place of the function of zinc as an anti-wear additive in the oil, so the ZDDP is no longer forming tribo-films on the surfaces due to the presence of MSH films, hence I'd expect my oil to contain an unusally high concentration of zinc which normally would be used up more rapidly over the oils service life and the oil depleted of zinc towards the end of it's life.

In one of the threads above, a vette owner with a lot of the "fairy dust" (the corvette one looks about like mine as far as how much) also had Used Oil Analysis done which came back with stellar results, more or less they said wear analysis showed very low engine wear rates that would not indicate any issues. This further backs up the theory of the "fairy dust" as being zinc from the motor oil.

Keep in mind this "metallic dust" is always non-magnetic in all of the cited examples above, mine included. So unless the rod bearings are just wearing away rapidly (I'd imagine 22k miles of frequent WOT and high RPM use would have spun one by now and dropped my oil pressure as well as severe knocking, none of which occur), the only possible explanation for continued dust content is zinc in the oil. It will obviously get replenished every time one changes their oil as well, so it will continue to occur to varying degrees over the life of the engine. Depending on your oil and engine loads, you may or may not notice any, but it's fairly common to see, especially in cars that get driven hard.

 

[Condor1970]

I hope Ford moves engine production back to the US. Even though we got a new trade deal with Canada, I can't help but wonder if this will slow things down for people who may need new engines.

 

[TheLion]

I recall back in the day that hot rod builders wanted the Cleveland built 4.6's and not the Windsor build 4.6's because word on the street was that the Cleveland engines just held up much better. Maybe it was urban legend, but maybe not.

 

[careature]

Well, Alex Flores from Lund Racing now has the tick as well - this should be interesting to follow....

Subscribed to his youtube channel. Waiting for his update on 5w50.

I had exact tick he had at the video, was told - rod bearing, got new short block and now wonder if I need to run thicker oil.

tick paranoia is difficult to get rid of.

IMO, once you got the tick - the damage is already done like the guy said. It might pointless to play with oil viscosity after that.

But I'm wondering what I should do to prevent the tick from now on.

 

[GT Pony]

I had exact tick he had at the video, was told - rod bearing, got new short block and now wonder if I need to run thicker oil.

The Coyote engines shear oil pretty good too because of all the cam chains. I've seen enough UOAs on Morotcraft oil to see it shears down in viscosity pretty good in the Coyote. That means 5W-20 only gets thinner from shearing as the miles go on it. For those reasons, I'm going to 5W-30 next oil change which will be very soon.

 

[careature]

The Coyote engines shear oil pretty good too because of all the cam chains. I've seen enough UOAs on Morotcraft oil to see it shears down in viscosity pretty good in the Coyote. That means 5W-20 only gets thinner from shearing as the miles go on it. For those reasons, I'm going to 5W-30 next oil change which will be very soon.

I'm thinking switching higher viscosity right away. The only question is which one.

 

[Condor1970]

The Coyote engines shear oil pretty good too because of all the cam chains. I've seen enough UOAs on Morotcraft oil to see it shears down in viscosity pretty good in the Coyote. That means 5W-20 only gets thinner from shearing as the miles go on it. For those reasons, I'm going to 5W-30 next oil change which will be very soon.

Do you have the tick, like the rest of us?

I ask, because my random idling tick, has turned into being quiet at idle, but more uniform with engine rpm above 1,500 rpm.

 

[GT Pony]

Do you have the tick, like the rest of us?

I ask, because my random idling tick, has turned into being quiet at idle, but more uniform with engine rpm above 1,500 rpm.

I don't have the tick ... my engine sounds pretty quiet, and I'm always listening for noises. I'm switching to 5W-30 Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic as it's due for an oil change soon. I researched a lot of 5W-30 oils, and Valvoline looked really good to me (high HTHS and low Noack numbers), and it has some moly in the formulation too.

I have been running Motorcraft synthetic blend 5W-20. But my GT only has 4K miles and had the first oil change at 2200 miles.

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