If you would allow me to help.
It's not just the suspension itself that needs help. Both front and rear, the subframe connections to the unit body are......hysterically bad. Ridiculously bad. So bad they don't allow the suspension to properly do it's job. And has the shocks and struts acting as...
Is the idea that MR can't handle the power?
I'd think that Ford Performance's MR upgrade kit it would be just fine, in addition to a lot of Steeda/BMR subframe & suspension mods.
Unless you're looking for ultimate drag-racing application.
Gotcha. I did one of those tunes on my 2005 GT.
I don't think those tuners work on 2011+ Mustangs. I Bama tuned my 2012 and 2016 Mustangs, and the tuning process started with me sending Bama pictures of the ECM so they could see all the numbers on the stickers, then the tune(s) were loaded onto...
Hand-held tuner loaded with tune = canned tune.
No hand-held tuner, a PC is plugged directly into the OBD port = custom tune.
At least, that's my definition.
Maybe tuning isn't done via PC plugged directly into the OBD port on Mustangs?
Anyways, the point is that the OP should never have...
Yes....that's a canned tune, not a custom tune. It's what I described in my previous post.
I'm talking custom tunes, where there's no hand-held tuner involved, and the person tuning the car plugs their lap-top directly into the OBD port?
Maybe that's not done on Mustangs?
Interesting question on this;
I know with canned tunes from Bamma, you get a pre-loaded tune on a hand-held tuner, which saves the factory tune for when it's needed again.
What happens with a "custom tune"? Do they modify the original/OEM tune? Do they save the original/OEM tune or a copy of...
Both fenders will have to be repainted and blended into the rest of the paint. A real quality job will be.....a few thousand dollars or so??
IMO, not worth it. But YMMV.
Ebay's spoiler production QC has been a bit lacking since they started doing aero parts for Aston Martin and Formula 1. Their molds for the PP1 spoiler aren't quite up to snuff, so sometimes fitment isn't exactly perfect.
It would be so great if there was a place on the internet where people...
Good Christ......the obsessiveness is silly.
Open pet-cock, remove over-flow tank cap, allow to drain out. Close pet-cock.
Pour back in pre-mixed OEM coolant from your local dealership. Run engine/allow to bleed, put over-flow tank cap back on.
Done.
Start making them in a rich Corinthian Leather, like the Chrysler New Yorker, in something like a deep, rich darker tan/brown, and I'm in.
Fast.
Do something like this;
Both cars were/are identical?? Really? Both have exactly the same tires, at the same PSI?
Both have the same suspension?
Where and why are you test driving these cars? Just for shits and giggles?
The factory alignment has some slight negative camber I believe. And tread-depth gauges mean nothing if you're not checking the right part of the tread.
Turn the wheel all the way one way or another, and check the inside edges. Or crawl under the rear end and take a real hard look.
Or not...
I'd think it's just condensation. When it's hot & muggy, you turn the A/C on without recirculating (you should always use recirc) water/moisture collects on the metal (plastic) chrome rings around the vents. If enough moisture collects, the driven air will spit water droplets at you...
There's is no "feels like" about this. The car either is, or is not, spitting water from the vents.
What is most likely happening, is condensation from the A/C. Do your vent surrounds get water on them???