thoughts on boost for track setup?

[cheetoh]

Planning on tracking my 2020 GT alot more this year and hopefully running it for times but wondering what would be the optimal boost to run (turbos? supercharger?) or if I should boost at all... finally at the point where I NEED to decide since my motor is going to be pretty much toast shortly (trying to figure out if I should just fix my current motor and stay N/A or get a new motor and boost it). thoughts?

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[robvas]

The S550 GT500 uses a 2650 TVS supercharger as does the Corvette. So a PD blower can work, even though everyone says they won't. A lot of people will tell you to go centrifigual "because they don't heat soak"

But not many people post any actual data from on the track.

 

[mavisky]

The S550 GT500 uses a 2650 TVS supercharger as does the Corvette. So a PD blower can work, even though everyone says they won't. A lot of people will tell you to go centrifigual "because they don't heat soak"

But not many people post any actual data from on the track.

True, but that car is also covered in heat exchangers front to rear to deal with the heat build up from the driveline.

 

[Mach1Racer]

The S550 GT500 uses a 2650 TVS supercharger as does the Corvette. So a PD blower can work, even though everyone says they won't. A lot of people will tell you to go centrifigual "because they don't heat soak"

But not many people post any actual data from on the track.

There is a reason for not choosing centrifugal superchargers for track work like Willow Springs.

The lack of torque down low and mid rpm power is often not the greatest in centrifugal supercharger. Additionally, the peaky power at the top of the rpm range could unsettle the car while powering out of a turn.

The TVS 2650 has found a home in cars built and sold as track performance oriented like the C7 ZR1 Corvette and GT500 as stated above due it power under the curve and reliability.

This wouldn’t be a bad choice for your road course track car. Turbos could be great too if they are sized correctly and have sophisticated wastegate management with boost by gear and adjustable boost rate.

Centrifugal superchargers often does well in dig (1/4 mile, 1/8 mile) racing and Roll racing. The softer low end can help with tire spin when the car is at a high power level. I enjoyed a F1A-94 Procharger on a 447 ci (7.3 liter) LSX in a 6 speed manual Pontiac GTO.

 

[beefcake]

Planning on tracking my 2020 GT alot more this year and hopefully running it for times but wondering what would be the optimal boost to run (turbos? supercharger?) or if I should boost at all... finally at the point where I NEED to decide since my motor is going to be pretty much toast shortly (trying to figure out if I should just fix my current motor and stay N/A or get a new motor and boost it). thoughts?

Give me a shout & we can go over your goals for your 2020 GT. We always are willing to help the guys out on price and are always open to answer any questions you might have.


I'm the owner of Beefcake Racing by the way. Let me know anything you need. www.beefcakeracing.com

 

[tosha]

The S550 GT500 uses a 2650 TVS supercharger as does the Corvette. So a PD blower can work, even though everyone says they won't. A lot of people will tell you to go centrifigual "because they don't heat soak"

But not many people post any actual data from on the track.

Sure, if the engine is engineered to handle this, and cats, and cooling system, and transmission, and all other components. Regular GT with coyote has none of these things. One can certainly reverse engineer all of these things with enough money and time, but it will be a lot cheaper to just buy a GT500.

PD blower heat soak is the least of the worries here.

 

[MrMike]

If you're staying N/A, build it. If you're going boost, buy a GT500 if you want to stick with this platform.

It is a lot of work to make an aftermarket F/I setup track ready.

 

[Ewheels]

Just reiterating what has already been said.
Many, many aspects of the car will over heat very quickly with boost on track. You might be able to build a one-lap hero car fairly easily, but if you want to do more than one lap, you will spend more in cooling/aero/ducting than you will on the actual supercharger just to keep the car from immediately pulling timing....or exploding.

If track days are what you want, keep it NA or just buy a GT500.

 

[Dallas J]

To play devils advocate, its not all lost playing with boost on track.

When it comes to power, making what is "needed" N/A can be done in a pretty aggressive way with the same power boosted being very safe. A mild boost, low timing setup will make power without the same level of knock risks.

Of course, power is power and power = heat. Dealing with that there are 2 main approaches but most will likely land somewhere in between. Either youre creating a 1-2 lap time attack hero or you find thermal equilibrium in the endurance crowd.

Im an Evo guy and have friends from both schools. A 24h Evo at 300hp can run completely reliable but the AU time attack guys pushing 1000hp expect to run 1-2 laps before cooling down.

At the end of the day, you gotta figure out what you need. 9/10th 20min sessions is different than 2on/1off TimeAttack laps.

 

[SBR70.3]

You can put FI on your car, but you will be constantly fighting overheating issues. If I could build my 2016 GT again for track use, I would 100% stay N/A and do E85, long tube headers, and spend money on brakes, suspension, tires, etc. Boost sounds fun, and it is on the street, but a nightmare on a GT at the track.

Probably not what you want to hear, but hey.....I saved you $10k.

 

[WItoTX]

NA, E85, and hood vents. With the right set up, you can be north of 500 whp. Maybe not 500 territory, but lighter and better balanced. Then play with the suspension.

 

[Mikepol2]

Are the factory electronics capable of telling you when your temps are getting hot enough for engine/cat damage? The stock display lists CHT, is that the indicator you would use, or have you guys installed some other temp sensing equipment?

Is there a CHT limit that I should keep an eye on even on back roads? So far I've never been able to get it past 205F.

 

[Ewheels]

Are the factory electronics capable of telling you when your temps are getting hot enough for engine/cat damage? The stock display lists CHT, is that the indicator you would use, or have you guys installed some other temp sensing equipment?

Is there a CHT limit that I should keep an eye on even on back roads? So far I've never been able to get it past 205F.

I keep an eye on CHT, engine oil temp, and diff oil temp.

For CHT, I back off once it goes over 235°F.

For engine oil, I added a real temp gauge plumbed into the sandwich plate for my oil cooler. I've read the general rule of thumb is to avoid going over 260°F. Oil additives are only designed up to 270°F so anything over that, degradation has begun. That's not to say if you hit 280°F the engine will immediately explode but you should change your oil afterwards.

 

[tosha]

Are the factory electronics capable of telling you when your temps are getting hot enough for engine/cat damage? The stock display lists CHT, is that the indicator you would use, or have you guys installed some other temp sensing equipment?

Is there a CHT limit that I should keep an eye on even on back roads? So far I've never been able to get it past 205F.

There is no point to monitor cats. if you take your boosted coyote with stock cats to hpde, they will be toast very quickly and there is nothing you can do about it. They don't even survive street use.

@Ewheels gave a good breakdown on other temps.

 

[MrMike]

I keep an eye on CHT, engine oil temp, and diff oil temp.

For CHT, I back off once it goes over 235°F.

For engine oil, I added a real temp gauge plumbed into the sandwich plate for my oil cooler. I've read the general rule of thumb is to avoid going over 260°F. Oil additives are only designed up to 270°F so anything over that, degradation has begun. That's not to say if you hit 280°F the engine will immediately explode but you should change your oil afterwards.

Do you have more details on your oil temp gauge setup?

How do you monitor diff temp, or did you just shove an active cooler back there and move on with your life?

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