Thoughts on my first upgrades to hit the track?

[chain]

I will be using the stock pads until they are worn out. I do want the cooling kit as my last time on track, I couldn't believe how much heat was radiating from the brakes after the sessions. From my little experience, I feel this is one of the first upgrades I should do for the track.

Sponsored

 

[sonicc]

I will be using the stock pads until they are worn out. I do want the cooling kit as my last time on track, I couldn't believe how much heat was radiating from the brakes after the sessions. From my little experience, I feel this is one of the first upgrades I should do for the track.

If it's between fluid and cooling ducts, get the fluid. Otherwise, if you can get both. Definitely no harm in reducing brake temps.

 

[chain]

Yeah I will make sure to do the fluid before my first outing. Worst thing that could happen on the track is lose brakes.

 

[hulk_smash]

Stock pads are quite good for a novice.

Also, I wouldn't run sticky tires for your first track event. The grip will mask your mistakes mid corner.

I think you should try to run as stock as possible for your first time out. Run stock pads if you have at least 75% pad. They are actually quite good.

Run stock wheels/tires.
Make sure your oil is fresh.
Run a 75W140 diff oil.
Make sure your coolant level is good.
Make sure your brake fluid is fresh.
Bring a GoPro so you can review your mistakes after the track event.

And go at your own pace. Don't try to be competitive on the first time out. Just work on your driving lines, getting the braking zones right, always look for the apex and watch your rear view mirror whenever you get on a straightaway to make sure you're not holding up traffic.

Have fun!

 

[chain]

Stock pads are quite good for a novice.

Also, I wouldn't run sticky tires for your first track event. The grip will mask your mistakes mid corner.

I think you should try to run as stock as possible for your first time out. Run stock pads if you have at least 75% pad. They are actually quite good.

Run stock wheels/tires.
Make sure your oil is fresh.
Run a 75W140 diff oil.
Make sure your coolant level is good.
Make sure your brake fluid is fresh.
Bring a GoPro so you can review your mistakes after the track event.

And go at your own pace. Don't try to be competitive on the first time out. Just work on your driving lines, getting the braking zones right, always look for the apex and watch your rear view mirror whenever you get on a straightaway to make sure you're not holding up traffic.

Have fun!

I ended up just ordering MPSS's for the new wheels. Figure it's a better tire overall than what comes on the car with pretty good grip, but not so much that it should mask my issues like you and a couple others noted can happen with sticky tires. Also a good option if I end up deciding to sell the PP set of wheel and tires.

Question on the thicker diff oil. I understand it's better for the track but would the thicker oil be an issue in day to day driving?

As for being aggressive I just am. =) Last time I was out I did surprisingly well compared to the others cars I ran with. I had expected to run in the back and watch everyone pass me up, ended up I was the one passing most of the time. Of course it was a bit different as I was driving a small car with an auto. I think I was generally overpowered by the bigger cars but was able to beat most of them in the turns. Biggest change this time will be trying to get good at this with the stick. I have never driven a stick on the track and am sure that it will be a bit more challenging.

I have the wheels and tires on the way along with the camber plates and rear camber adjusting kit from Steeda. I understand getting my camber right will help handling along with saving my tires. Last thing I plan to order is a brake duct kit. Aside from that just plan to take care of my fluids and I'm ready.

This is of course after I get my car in the first place lol. 4 more weeks!

 

[hulk_smash]

I ended up just ordering MPSS's for the new wheels. Figure it's a better tire overall than what comes on the car with pretty good grip, but not so much that it should mask my issues like you and a couple others noted can happen with sticky tires. Also a good option if I end up deciding to sell the PP set of wheel and tires.

Question on the thicker diff oil. I understand it's better for the track but would the thicker oil be an issue in day to day driving?

As for being aggressive I just am. =) Last time I was out I did surprisingly well compared to the others cars I ran with. I had expected to run in the back and watch everyone pass me up, ended up I was the one passing most of the time. Of course it was a bit different as I was driving a small car with an auto. I think I was generally overpowered by the bigger cars but was able to beat most of them in the turns. Biggest change this time will be trying to get good at this with the stick. I have never driven a stick on the track and am sure that it will be a bit more challenging.

I have the wheels and tires on the way along with the camber plates and rear camber adjusting kit from Steeda. I understand getting my camber right will help handling along with saving my tires. Last thing I plan to order is a brake duct kit. Aside from that just plan to take care of my fluids and I'm ready.

This is of course after I get my car in the first place lol. 4 more weeks!

I don't see any issues with daily driving the 75W140. Just make sure to properly warm up your engine and diff properly.

Driving a heavier car on track is much harder than a lighter car. You will feel the weight mid corner and when braking.

I have to say though that the Mustang feels very nimble for a heavy car.

The purpose of rev matching is to control weight transfer. And of course to save your transmission and clutch. It's hard to practice on street but once you get the hang of it, it kind of becomes natural.

 

[chain]

Yeah I fully expect to feel the weight. Last time was my Solstice coupe. Running around 300hp and about 900lbs lighter than the Mustang. I miss that car. =(

 

[lilgdad]

I agree with what others have said. The stock PP GT is gtg as is on the tack for a novice, feels surprisingly nimble and I had all the traction I needed with the stock setup, I could not bring myself to go 10/10 I kept it more like 7/10 on the track because I still have the warranty and didn't want to chance wrecking a car I am making payments. I was catching a few Miatas and modified M3s in the corners. So that says something, Miatas typically own most cars in the corners. I was so surprised they never braked going into corners like I had to. I saw an s197 spin and wreck into a barrier, was not pretty. Of course he was doing time trials while I was HPDE. Stock PP seats SUCK on the track, I did everything I could to stay in my seat, oil temp did climb, so running a better oil would be good, I got above 3/4 on my oil temp gauge running in 80 to 90 degree temps (using stock oil), I did change the diff fluid prior as insurance since its super easy to do, I would also recommend tranny fluid change to something better. Heat kills fluids and its cheap insurance against failure.

 

[chain]

If you are worried about hurting the car on the track, you might want to look into insurance. You can get insurance for track days and while not necessarily cheap, it is much cheaper than not having it should you need it. I also think it would mean more fun as it gives you peace of mind not having to worry about crashing and you can push harder.

Did you do an event at Mid Ohio?

 

[Must_Tang]

I agree with what others have said. The stock PP GT is gtg as is on the tack for a novice, feels surprisingly nimble and I had all the traction I needed with the stock setup, I could not bring myself to go 10/10 I kept it more like 7/10 on the track because I still have the warranty and didn't want to chance wrecking a car I am making payments. I was catching a few Miatas and modified M3s in the corners. So that says something, Miatas typically own most cars in the corners. I was so surprised they never braked going into corners like I had to. I saw an s197 spin and wreck into a barrier, was not pretty. Of course he was doing time trials while I was HPDE. Stock PP seats SUCK on the track, I did everything I could to stay in my seat, oil temp did climb, so running a better oil would be good, I got above 3/4 on my oil temp gauge running in 80 to 90 degree temps (using stock oil), I did change the diff fluid prior as insurance since its super easy to do, I would also recommend tranny fluid change to something better. Heat kills fluids and its cheap insurance against failure.

Yeah, I always buy the Lockton track day insurance. Agreed value policy. It adds a few hundred to the track day expense, but worth it IMO.

The stock seats do suck for track day. You're holding on for dear life in them. I purchased some Schroth quick fit harness over the winter and will be using those for track days. Nice thing about them is that you can remove them when not driving in anger. Nothing says "pull me over officer" more than driving around with harnesses on the street!

 

[Norm Peterson]

I agree with what others have said. The stock PP GT is gtg as is on the tack for a novice, feels surprisingly nimble and I had all the traction I needed with the stock setup, I could not bring myself to go 10/10 I kept it more like 7/10 on the track because I still have the warranty and didn't want to chance wrecking a car I am making payments. I was catching a few Miatas and modified M3s in the corners. So that says something, Miatas typically own most cars in the corners. I was so surprised they never braked going into corners like I had to.

If they weren't braking going into the corners and you were catching them from the middle on out you may have actually entered the corners at slightly higher speeds where braking might still have been necessary for them. At the novice level, what the driver is comfortable with for any of the various skills - this being his individual notion of where 7/10ths driving is - can vary widely.

If this was Mid-Ohio, which corners were you catching them in?

There are a couple of inexpensive ways to help remain centered behind the steering wheel when cornering hard. CG-lock for one, a secondary non-slacking lap belt for another (I use the belt shown below, strapped around the seat cushion because it's just a stitched-together loop not attached to the car at all . . . salvaged it from the Chevy Malibu I used to own).

And a $0.00 suggestion. Try to relax every muscle that isn't directly involved with turning the steering wheel or stepping on a pedal. Unneeded muscle tension tends to lift weight off the seat cushion and sometimes even the seatback, meaning that your own weight isn't helping you by as much as it could be. You'll probably still be bracing a knee against the door, but try to resist only the sideways force and avoid stepping harder on the dead pedal.

Norm

 

[Must_Tang]

Norm_Peterson, I could not get CG Lock to clamp onto my 2016 seatbelts. Were you able to do that? That was why I ended up going with the Schroth Quick Fits. I send the CG Locks back...

 

[Norm Peterson]

I've never used a CG-lock, only know that it exists and that because some people swear by them I should at least mention it as an option when a track day topic comes around to working with OE (non-harness) restraint systems.

FWIW, the belt approach has never been questioned at tech or gone un-used by any passenger (including instructors). One instructor I offered a ride-along to even passed the idea along to his student of that day.


Norm

 

[DickR]

At least for autocross using one of these at waist level instead of torso level works well.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/GForceTorsoHarness/s#reviews

Another approach used by many autocrossers is to twist the lap belt 2 or 3 times prior to latching it. However I found that the belt will loosen a little and is hard to "adjust" snugly compared to using the torso strap at waist level.

I looked into the CG-lock in 2015 but they didn't have a version to fit a 2015 Mustang buckle. Plus it looked like the design would damage belt fabric.

Since I already owned a torso belt I decided to try it at waist level since the "twist the lap belt" approach wasn't satisfactory.

 

[chain]

At least for autocross using one of these at waist level instead of torso level works well.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/GForceTorsoHarness/s#reviews

Another approach used by many autocrossers is to twist the lap belt 2 or 3 times prior to latching it. However I found that the belt will loosen a little and is hard to "adjust" snugly compared to using the torso strap at waist level.

I looked into the CG-lock in 2015 but they didn't have a version to fit a 2015 Mustang buckle. Plus it looked like the design would damage belt fabric.

Since I already owned a torso belt I decided to try it at waist level since the "twist the lap belt" approach wasn't satisfactory.

Might have to get one of them. Hard to argue with for the price. If I don't care for it, I am not really losing anything.

Sponsored