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The "how to disable the data link to Ford" thread

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Tomster

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Tom
Is the old antenna a bolt on, or does it require drilling holes?
The hole in the roof is standard for both antenna models (shark fin or low profile). It is a 1" x 1" square hole. Both the low profile antenna and the shark fin antenna have the same mount and use the same sized hole. No modifications to the car are needed.

See the attached photos. The holes are the same for whatever antenna you are using.

20200902_173918.jpg


20200902_173936.jpg
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As I mentioned, the shark antenna uses a different plastic connector (blue). I was able to locate it via mouser electronics. I ordered 25 pieces. If anyone would like to swap antennas, PM me and I would be happy to send you the plastic part that you would need. They are currently backordered, so I will just rob the plastic connector off my original antenna and replace it when the item is shipped to me.

connector.jpg
 
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Thanks KB. It really is a win-win. Get a low profile antenna and loose the FoMoCo big brother.
 

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Thank you for all of the extreme detail Tom. Perhaps you posted this previously and I missed it, but I just wanted to confirm the part number you used when you ordered the low profile antenna. I have found several antennas when searching, however the part numbers do not match-up to the part number on your antenna. I doubt they are interchangeable and wanted to confirm what part number you used.
 

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Thank you for all of the extreme detail Tom. Perhaps you posted this previously and I missed it, but I just wanted to confirm the part number you used when you ordered the low profile antenna. I have found several antennas when searching, however the part numbers do not match-up to the part number on your antenna. I doubt they are interchangeable and wanted to confirm what part number you used.
I'm pretty sure any low profile antenna from '15 and up would work. The one that was custom oreded for this application, specific to a job 1 car is part number HR3Z-10E893-ACPTM

The photo attached had part of the label ripped off.


20200902_230900.jpg
 

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Tom: Roger that, amigo and I never knew that high-quality paint came in rattle cans. The rain drop looks great.

I'm just thankful that with the info gleaned from here, I was able to stop mine from ringing up Mother Ford.
 
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Tom: Roger that, amigo and I never knew that high-quality paint came in rattle cans. The rain drop looks great.

I'm just thankful that with the info gleaned from here, I was able to stop mine from ringing up Mother Ford.
Yes, I recall that you were having a problem with it. Your car might have been one of the first CFTPs in the world (for public consumption).... If not, very close. So my point is maybe your fuse location isn't as advertised. I know that's very unlikely, but I find it strange that after pulling the fuse, ET kept calling mother Ford.

I'll PM you with a diagnostic that was graciously sent my way from a member here. Maybe that will help with your issue.

There was some nut job on here the other night that was throwing around the notion that WiFi is a possible secondary communication backup. In a drunken super he even went so far as to hint that the car can somehow log into encrypted networks. While I don't believe that, I think a secondary communication backup channel like wifi is plausible.

The diagram found in the manual is a lot like the ones you find in an aircraft systems manual, simplified and not always correct, but put forth in such a manner to dumb it down for the lowest common denominator. Even though the wifi is depicted as part of the TCU, who knows what is really going on within the actual system (see diagram below).

So keep me updated. Your story left off with a rogue track pack who just missed its mama too much.

Below is the dumbed down diagram I spoke of. According to that, kill the TCU power and wifi should go with it. If its still phonimg home at that point, maybe it is time to put the foil hat on.

20200829_181921.jpg
 

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Yes, I recall that you were having a problem with it. Your car might have been one of the first CFTPs in the world (for public consumption).... If not, very close. So my point is maybe your fuse location isn't as advertised. I know that's very unlikely, but I find it strange that after pulling the fuse, ET kept calling mother Ford.

I'll PM you with a diagnostic that was graciously sent my way from a member here. Maybe that will help with your issue.

There was some nut job on here the other night that was throwing around the notion that WiFi is a possible secondary communication backup. In a drunken super he even went so far as to hint that the car can somehow log into encrypted networks. While I don't believe that, I think a secondary communication backup channel like wifi is plausible.

The diagram found in the manual is a lot like the ones you find in an aircraft systems manual, simplified and not always correct, but put forth in such a manner to dumb it down for the lowest common denominator.

So keep me updated. Your story left off with a rogue track pack who just missed its mama too much.

Below is the dumbed down diagram I spoke of. According to that, kill the TCU power and wifi should go with it. If its still phonimg home at that point, maybe it is time to put the foil hat on.

20200829_181921.jpg
Interesting. Looks like the APIM has a big hand in what gets fed to the TCU. Maybe that means the options they give you actually do something? Lol. It also explains why Ford spent the money to update the back end for the base screen to be identical to the 8 inch unit. Makes me wonder what the APIM differences between the two systems are...
 

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Tom: As it turned out, a master reset solved the problem, don't ask me why. All I can think of is that the first time I tried it, I was getting previous "ghost" events that made FordPass seem live when it wasn't since it couldn't physically connect with the correct breaker pulled.
 

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Interesting. Looks like the APIM has a big hand in what gets fed to the TCU. Maybe that means the options they give you actually do something? Lol. It also explains why Ford spent the money to update the back end for the base screen to be identical to the 8 inch unit. Makes me wonder what the APIM differences between the two systems are...
Keep in mind that bathroom literature seems to have been written for a job 1 car. Job 2 cars have differences. Elsewhere in the manual all the system descriptions (narratives) describe the cabling and subsystems of the job 1 car. I think that may be only pertinent to the telematic system of the car, so I would expect some kind of update pertaining to the changes if they don't already exist as a supplement somewhere.
 
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Tom: As it turned out, a master reset solved the problem, don't ask me why. All I can think of is that the first time I tried it, I was getting previous "ghost" events that made FordPass seem live when it wasn't since it couldn't physically connect with the correct breaker pulled.
It is my understanding that a master reset will remove your preferences for the Ford Pass system. Its kind of like hitting the factory reset button on the back of your modem.....it will return it to factory defaults. The question i would have for you is that even if your system was reset, is it still transmitting data? That may or may not be de-identified as an individual (through Ford Pass account), but i believe the VIN would still be part of that communication.

My question is there still a data link? Your case was bizarre in that you pulled the fuse and you couldn't turn it off.
 

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I think the the WI-Fi could be a valid secondary communication source. There are a lot of WI-Fi hot spots around that are open and not encrypted. Comcast has an open access that is available on every modem they service. I have disabled the Wi-Fi on my Modem, because I am hardwired through a LAN connection. Now I don't have to worry about my car watching porn.
 

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Tom: The initial problem was me plus lousy eyesight and lighting, I pulled the wrong 5A breaker.

Figured that out and after pulling the correct one, I saw what I believed was communication. That's when I thought I had a weird car.

I think it was you who mentioned the reset so I tried that and it was only then that I saw a dead system via FP. So, nothing weird, just me. Pulling #8 will do the trick, even on the early cars.
 
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I may not agree with the reasons behind this, but there is some fantastic research and work being put into it. @Tomster, well done.
You like the shark fin antenna? I think its hideous. It belongs on an SUV.
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