The Big Fat Track Car Cooling Thread

[Scootsmcgreggor]

Do you guys think that orientation ofnthe cooler is not important? What if i mount them vertical vs orizontal (so longer side running vertical )?

Do it. Big benefit is you likely can eliminate two angle fittings so much better flow rate.

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[Flyhalf]

If orientation is not an issue then i can also upgrade my oil cooler. Putting side by side the trans cooler and the same size of oil cooler.
Right now i have the mishimoto in the lover grille and this trans cooler on top.
But the I'd like to have a bigger one.
Next. Removing ac condencer and probably the fan and shroud changing it with a 16"one

 

[Flyhalf]

I would not think so. I figure which ever way catches the most efficient air flow. But I have been known to be wrong a time or two in my life.

Interesting...

 

[Cobra Jet]

OK, after seeing/reading more stuff in this thread, I've made a few changes. First, I swapped out the massive intercooler for a more reasonably sized one (Mishi clone). Second, I relocated the oil cooler from in front of the radiator to its own location alongside the intercooler opening, cut the lower valence open to provide airflow to it. Third, boxed everything in, hopefully forcing more air through the rad, intercooler, and oil cooler. I have some track time tonight, fingers crossed!

Are you running an open style front grille? Only asking because man, the top section of your A/C condenser is peppered to death resulting in compressed core row fins. Though you may not think it, those compressed fins obstruct air flow to the radiator.

I like what you did with the boxing in of the radiator section. Is that all aluminum and about how long did it take to design/cut and mount? How did you mount the “box” parts? Rivets?

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Boxing and ducting is the most effecting mod for cooling. 20 25f is what ive seen too.

Hi, I think I saw you mention somewhere what overheated first in your experience. I.e., what was the first problem to bring on "limp mode", but I can't find the post now. Do I remember right that you posted something about this?

 

[SVO MkII]

Hi, I think I saw you mention somewhere what overheated first in your experience. I.e., what was the first problem to bring on "limp mode", but I can't find the post now. Do I remember right that you posted something about this?

Going all the way back to my first track day with this car, the sequence of issues goes as follows; brake fade, intercooler heat soak (ECU pulling boost), high oil temp (ECU pulls boost). When I hooked up Track Addict via OBDII, I could see that coolant temps were also running 235-240. It's definitely much better now on all fronts. I still think I may need to add some hood venting in the future, but I'll run it like this for the rest of the season.

 

[TundraOnKings]

Hi folks. Quick question. I thought I did my homework in trackable cars, but scared I did not. Picked up a new 2020 GT last weekend, and heading to Oregon Raceway Park this weekend (HPDE type). The car is completely stock and will have 1,000 mi on it. It’s the 10-spd auto, with the PP1 package, and magnaride. Am I more likely than not, going to have rear diff, trans, or trans overheating issues?
I can’t figure out if these are all non-PP package issues, pre-2018 cars, 4cylturbo issues, or what. I took my Lexus GS350FSport a few weekends back and pushed it very hard, 5 x 20 min sessions, with zero issues. I know the 5.0 is much more powerful, but was really hoping I wouldn’t have to pull off the track early with overheating issues, being a PP equipped car.
Thanks!

 

[luc]

Depend how fast you are

 

[TundraOnKings]

Depend how fast you are

I’m completely new to tracks. This was my first time ever on track, but by 3 sessions later I was faster LOL. I know I didn’t hit my apex’s good - I didn’t learn that until my track buddy rode with me during the TrackTour later in the day.


and yeah, I know - no arm on window and peeling out LOL. Embarrassing.

 

[Flyhalf]

Hi folks. Quick question. I thought I did my homework in trackable cars, but scared I did not. Picked up a new 2020 GT last weekend, and heading to Oregon Raceway Park this weekend (HPDE type). The car is completely stock and will have 1,000 mi on it. It’s the 10-spd auto, with the PP1 package, and magnaride. Am I more likely than not, going to have rear diff, trans, or trans overheating issues?
I can’t figure out if these are all non-PP package issues, pre-2018 cars, 4cylturbo issues, or what. I took my Lexus GS350FSport a few weekends back and pushed it very hard, 5 x 20 min sessions, with zero issues. I know the 5.0 is much more powerful, but was really hoping I wouldn’t have to pull off the track early with overheating issues, being a PP equipped car.
Thanks!

Diff isnt typical a big issue on 10speed.
Trans will be. Especially with higher ambient temps. Never ever go above 225f on trans temps.
Ypu will suffer with vert high temps on engine oil.
As mentioned is all depending how fast you are.
The faster the more heat.

Alex

 

[SVO MkII]

Hi folks. Quick question. I thought I did my homework in trackable cars, but scared I did not. Picked up a new 2020 GT last weekend, and heading to Oregon Raceway Park this weekend (HPDE type). The car is completely stock and will have 1,000 mi on it. It’s the 10-spd auto, with the PP1 package, and magnaride. Am I more likely than not, going to have rear diff, trans, or trans overheating issues?
I can’t figure out if these are all non-PP package issues, pre-2018 cars, 4cylturbo issues, or what. I took my Lexus GS350FSport a few weekends back and pushed it very hard, 5 x 20 min sessions, with zero issues. I know the 5.0 is much more powerful, but was really hoping I wouldn’t have to pull off the track early with overheating issues, being a PP equipped car.
Thanks!

If you are an experienced HPDE participant, and you push the car near the limit, you will most likely have cooling issues of some sort. With respect to the diff temp, I find that putting the stability control into Track mode seems to keep diff temps down a bit. I learned this by forgetting to put it into Track mode and seeing the diff temps rise ;) The Shelby's and the Mach 1 appear to be the only "track ready" Mustangs available right from Ford.

 

[racingandfishing]

Diff isnt typical a big issue on 10speed.
Trans will be. Especially with higher ambient temps. Never ever go above 225f on trans temps.
Ypu will suffer with vert high temps on engine oil.
As mentioned is all depending how fast you are.
The faster the more heat.

Alex

Curious as to why the diff temp wouldn't be as much of an issue on the 10 speed vs. the manual?

 

[shogun32]

just 'cruise' on the straights will help with engine heat - accelerate hard out of the corner but then after a bit let up and maintain steady state and wave people by. Lack of front camber is probably going to be your biggest issue.

 

[luc]

I’m completely new to tracks. This was my first time ever on track, but by 3 sessions later I was faster LOL. I know I didn’t hit my apex’s good - I didn’t learn that until my track buddy rode with me during the TrackTour later in the day.


and yeah, I know - no arm on window and peeling out LOL. Embarrassing.

You will be fine at your level
Remember that speed is a byproduct of skills, meaning that work on your lines, braking point, smoothness, apex, etc and the speed will naturally follow

 

[Flyhalf]

Curious as to why the diff temp wouldn't be as much of an issue on the 10 speed vs. the manual?

Many ideas. No certains.
Possible that diff spin slower vs manual.
Possible that witg 10speed you are always in the optimal range for best grip without using diff too much
It is also possible related to drive style.
Ps. I tend to go high in diff temps ONLY at Laguna Seca. Bot sure why.
Solution is easy. Betweem session :LEAF BLOWER. Poor some water in front of it and spray 1-2 min the diff.
Thisnwill be lots of time.

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