Subwoofer replacement options

[scottgt500]

That is strange as the sub should not affect the rest. Did your installer check all the levels and fader to make sure nothing changed.

Well I don't think so. The fader has always been in the middle pre and post install. The bass is flat at 0 and the treble is between mid and all the way up. The surround sound mode WAS the best and loudest sound, stock. Surround now is almost useless somehow (compared to stereo). I had to switch to stereo to get some mid and highs back. Its not terrible but it is noticeable hence me using 20 vs the 15 that I mainly had it at before. I will get used to it but I was just wondering if a plug or connector was inadvertently unplugged...ie a simple fix.

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[m3incorp]

Being a researcher, I have to say that something changed, other than adding the subwoofer via the stock subwoofer wires. Was ForScan used or any other type of tuning conducted? Are you using the same music source? Did you listen to CDs before, if you did; put one in that you are familiar with and see how it sounds. Are you playing from your phone, make sure the phones media volume is turned all the way up. I'm just throwing out things that come to mind.

Well I don't think so. The fader has always been in the middle pre and post install. The bass is flat at 0 and the treble is between mid and all the way up. The surround sound mode WAS the best and loudest sound, stock. Surround now is almost useless somehow (compared to stereo). I had to switch to stereo to get some mid and highs back. Its not terrible but it is noticeable hence me using 20 vs the 15 that I mainly had it at before. I will get used to it but I was just wondering if a plug or connector was inadvertently unplugged...ie a simple fix.

 

[FreePenguin]

Well I don't think so. The fader has always been in the middle pre and post install. The bass is flat at 0 and the treble is between mid and all the way up. The surround sound mode WAS the best and loudest sound, stock. Surround now is almost useless somehow (compared to stereo). I had to switch to stereo to get some mid and highs back. Its not terrible but it is noticeable hence me using 20 vs the 15 that I mainly had it at before. I will get used to it but I was just wondering if a plug or connector was inadvertently unplugged...ie a simple fix.

I wish you was near me in Ohio, id do my best to straighten out your install. no one puts as much time and effort to make it as good as possible than ourselves, thats a fact. it may be working, but idk. something about knowing exactly how somethings installed gives you the ability to fine tune things how you like it. not saying they didn't try, but somethings wonky with what you are explaining.

the subwoofer should have zero impact on the rest of the systems draw. you should be able to unplug it, or replug it, and the music volumes should all the same.

 

[scottgt500]

Being a researcher, I have to say that something changed, other than adding the subwoofer via the stock subwoofer wires. Was ForScan used or any other type of tuning conducted? Are you using the same music source? Did you listen to CDs before, if you did; put one in that you are familiar with and see how it sounds. Are you playing from your phone, make sure the phones media volume is turned all the way up. I'm just throwing out things that come to mind.

Forscan was not used. XM radio and Bluetooth from my phone are what I use. same as before. Something changed...like I said before, I went through 3 different installers. What would forscan do? Not familiar with that.

 

[m3incorp]

ForScan to do too many things to name, to include making changes to your audio system, but since it wasn't used, it out of the question. Did you check your phone settings, especially ensuring the media output volume in set to max? I can say that when I play local radio staations, they tend to play a lot louder than the music I am streaming from Spotify or XM. Of course that is because of the source and not dependant on how the system is set up. The fact that even your surround sound mode doesn't appear to be working anymore, has me wondering.

Forscan was not used. XM radio and Bluetooth from my phone are what I use. same as before. Something changed...like I said before, I went through 3 different installers. What would forscan do? Not familiar with that.

 

[StangTime]

Well sometimes you have to improvise for the short term. The rear shelf rattle was unbearable in my car so i wedged a sock between window and package tray. 95% fixed. Researching shows to dynamat the area really well, even double, seal it up, and possibly sometime of weather striping at edge where it touches window. I am up for suggestions, remember my bass is at miniscule levels right now so once i get the subs/gain figured out its just going to get worse. Not sure of the exact model but mens large sock works pretty well.

@protraxduner what was your final solution to the rear shelf rattle? I have the same problem now. I think I want to remove the shelf and add a strip of thick foam along the rear edge to compress against the glass. Is it easy to remove the shelf without taking the side panels off?

 

[protraxduner]

@protraxduner what was your final solution to the rear shelf rattle? I have the same problem now. I think I want to remove the shelf and add a strip of thick foam along the rear edge to compress against the glass. Is it easy to remove the shelf without taking the side panels off?

I bought some edge foam, and will dynamat the rear shelf, the problem is you have to remove the seats AND the rear quarter interior trim panels to get the rear shelf off. SO i have not done it yet. Not hard just time consuming.

 

[StangTime]

I bought some edge foam, and will dynamat the rear shelf, the problem is you have to remove the seats AND the rear quarter interior trim panels to get the rear shelf off. SO i have not done it yet. Not hard just time consuming.

I was hoping to not have to remove those side panels. It's a pain to have to remove them. I just put my car all back together and now I have the rear deck panel flapping like a bird. The metal seems solid and non-resonant. I will try inserting some foam weather stripping material between the rear window and the deck before taking it all apart.

 

[Tybone]

JL has several 500 watt mono subwoofer amps. This is their low end model: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...d/products/jd500-1-car-audio-amplifiers-98362. The next one is a step up and the one I got: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...roducts/rd500-1-car-audio-rd-amplifiers-98618. It is a good workhorse and I did not need to get anything crazy as it is not like I will be in any audio competitions. Then their upper end models, and they make four more at 600 watts and above, are overkill for what I wanted. They are all subwoofer amps.



Yes you can stuff the box and I did and not only that, I covered the entire back end and sides with dynamat so the plastic box would not vibrate so much. While this helped a bit to make the bass tighter, there just isn't the volume there nor doesn't go very deep. You can however, replace the OEM speaker with a JLAudio 10W1-V4 or similar shallow 10" sub and it will make a much bigger improvement. The problem is, then you will want to add and amp to get even more volume. I decided I only wanted to do this once so when with the Stealthbox and a dedicated sub amp.



I picked up the signal from the existing wires going into the OEM sub. There are 4 wires as it is a dual voice coil speaker. There is a green and black wire to one side, yellow and purple to the other. I could have used just one side but I combined the green and yellow (both are +) and black and purple (both are -) and ran them to the input on the JL amp.

Quick question, I installed a shallow mount rockford fosgate p3sd2-8 in my stock 2017 premium box, direct plug and and play. Isn't enough power I believe so I'm hooking a amp into it using a loc, can I tie the speaker directly into the sub wires to the amp? Also a dual voice coil but my wires are blue- blue white on one side and red- red white on the other. Can I just put the 2 positives together? Thanks

 

[marklboris]

Hey Tyler,
I don't have the wiring diagram for the 2017 audio system so not sure about the wire colors you have. Also I cannot say with your system that you can join the two positive audio sub wires together like I did with the B&O system. Do you have a B&O audio system in your 2017? I'm really only familiar with the B&O system that are 2020 and up and don't want to be giving you any wrong info or advise.

 

[Tybone]

Hey Tyler,
I don't have the wiring diagram for the 2017 audio system so not sure about the wire colors you have. Also I cannot say with your system that you can join the two positive audio sub wires together like I did with the B&O system. Do you have a B&O audio system in your 2017? I'm really only familiar with the B&O system that are 2020 and up and don't want to be giving you any wrong info or advise.

I don't think it's the same as the b/o system, I believe yours came with a 10". Same concept i believe, Mine came with a 8" so I replaced it with a rockford 8" dual voice coil. It has an amp on the back of the box I'm gonna tie my positive and negative from my loc to the 2 preamp wires at the box and was gonna tie in my speaker wire post amp before the box to the amp, I just didnt know if I need to run them separately or tie the positives together? Or I seen somewhere that you use 1 side neg and one side positive.. I'm not an audiophile by any means just know the basics thanks

 

[marklboris]

I don't think it's the same as the b/o system, I believe yours came with a 10". Same concept i believe, Mine came with a 8" so I replaced it with a rockford 8" dual voice coil. It has an amp on the back of the box I'm gonna tie my positive and negative from my loc to the 2 preamp wires at the box and was gonna tie in my speaker wire post amp before the box to the amp, I just didnt know if I need to run them separately or tie the positives together? Or I seen somewhere that you use 1 side neg and one side positive.. I'm not an audiophile by any means just know the basics thanks

When you mention you want to tie the two positives together, are you talking about the two on the dual voice coil speaker or the ones coming from the audio system that will be supplying the signal to the amp?

 

[Tybone]

When you mention you want to tie the two positives together, are you talking about the two on the dual voice coil speaker or the ones coming from the audio system that will be supplying the signal to the amp?
[/QUOTE
Well I'm actually grabbing signal pre amp from 2 wires going into factory amp and wiring those into the loc, tieing the the positives together on loc and negatives together on the loc. Then I've got 4 wires post amp (speaker wires) that I need to tap into to run to my aftermarket amp. I wired everything up yesterday just waiting on the loc. Finally got in touch with Crutchfield and he gave me this.. so I might have to go back and rewire the sub wires (I guess to get the right ohms?)

 

[Tybone]

Looks like since I'm gonna have to use a jumper wire from post 1 (negative) to post 2 (positive) on the dual coil sub I will only need to use 1 negative and 1 positive coming out of the box? And just put wire caps on the unused wires? Still waiting on my loc so I'm gonna rewire the setup and see if the speaker still works not being hooked up to amp

 

[marklboris]

Looks like since I'm gonna have to use a jumper wire from post 1 (negative) to post 2 (positive) on the dual coil sub I will only need to use 1 negative and 1 positive coming out of the box? And just put wire caps on the unused wires? Still waiting on my loc so I'm gonna rewire the setup and see if the speaker still works not being hooked up to amp

You would connect it this way if the amp is rated for an 8 ohm load like the one in your diagram because it's bridged. If it is not a bridged amp and a standard mono 4 ohm amp then connect it up to the dual voice coil woofer but don't use the jumper.

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