Subwoofer replacement options

protraxduner

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Give this a try.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G352P2C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an amp that accepts high level (bare wires) and low-level RCA. I had it wired to the high level on my amp and worked great and then as an experiment, used the adapter above and plugged it into the low-level RCA, and sounds exactly the same.

It is cheap and worth a try.

One of the other members is going to use a voltmeter to test if the signal coming from the sub part of the B&O amp is actually high or low level.

That is what i am using(kicker brand)....and what i am telling you is that is the only way to connect to the kicker amp there are no speaker/bare wire connectors on my amp. You have to use that connector and it magically figures it out.





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m3incorp

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Ooops it was early when I responded.

That is what i am using(kicker brand)....and what i am telling you is that is the only way to connect to the kicker amp there are no speaker/bare wire connectors on my amp. You have to use that connector and it magically figures it out.
 

marklboris

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Ok, as promised, I went out and measured the input voltage coming into my JM500/1 JL Audio 500 watt mono amp. The signal was originally going into the OEM B&O sub. This JL amp only has a left and right RCA inputs so I terminated the wires from the OEM sub with a left and right RCA plug.

This is how I usually determine the input voltage and if it is incorrect, then someone can explain how I should be doing it. First, I figure out the loudest I can turn the system without distortion. You can do this one of a few ways. Since I don't own an oscilloscope or a distortion device, I just did the ear test. With the sub disconnected, I used a signal generator (app on my iPhone) to produce frequencies between 100 Hz -400 Hz I listen to the tones and when it goes from sounding pure to a buzzing, I know I have reached distortion. I don't go higher in frequency than 400 Hz as I have found I reach distortion earlier in these lower frequencies than higher ones. It is not the most scientific way but I don't have fancy equipment to test with. The car stereo dealer I have used and trusted for over 30 years is now 3 hours away and if I ever get down there with the GT500 I will have them check for sure with their equipment like I have had them do in my other vehicles.

I know it makes a difference what input source you are using and I am using my iPhone 12 Pro connected to the USB input which is a constant output, not variable. With that said, the loudest I can turn the volume knob is 20. At 21, I start to hear buzzing coming out of the speakers (and no it is not plastic trim vibrating). I then turned on the sub and ran the signal generator at 60 Hz which happens to be around the loudest frequency the sub produces in it's frequency range, and I tested the voltage of the inputs going into the JL amp at 1.1 volts for each for a total of 2.2 volts. With the volume level still at 20, I adjust the JL amp input level until the clipping light just starts to blink then back down a bit. I do all of this with the remote volume control of the JL amp disconnected. The input level switch on the JL amp is set to High and the input level adjustment knob is around 1/3 up. If I were to turn the input switch to Low, the distortion light will come on even if the input level on the amp is all the way down so for this amp, it needs to be set on High.

I have been listening to the stereo now for over 6 months and it is a decent sounding system. No, it is not an awesome sounding system like I have installed in a few of my other vehicles with my favorite Focal separates and Mosconi amps but I don't drive the car all that much and when I do like to listen to the engine and exhaust more than the stereo. I have not used Forescan to disable the EQ. I have the surround sound disabled, balance is set 2 clicks to the right, fader at center, bass at center, midrange set 4 clicks to the right and treble set 5 clicks to the right. I disconnected the center speaker the day I got the car home.

I know this was more info than just the input voltage but thought I would explain more of how I tested it and have my inputs and settings set up.
 

kilobravo

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..but I don't drive the car all that much and when I do like to listen to the engine and exhaust more than the stereo.
I wonder how many owners have had that thought, Mark? It's kinda why I'm pushing the audio upgrade back, (if even any portion of it ever occurs,) because I'm simply not in her enough to throw a big ol' chunk of pesos at the issue and, like you, when I AM in the car, I wanna hear her growl, full time.

The trip out to my dealer is about 15-20 miles, mostly highway and one part has a seventy-five sign so that's fun. :-) I got to (sort of) enjoy the drive out early this morning for the recall. But truth be told, it is still difficult for me to listen to anything BUT the car when I go out, it's like my senses are tweaked. Fact is, it's stressful for me in traffic at speed with all the poor drivers out there these days. Dang mobile phones, I bet they kill way more folks annually than alcohol. Just a guess of course but seems like everywhere you turn while driving, SOMEONE is looking down at a device. Nothing to be done about it of course other than be more vigilant but as I say, a big dose of that can quickly kill the fun.

<off soap box>

:-)
 

protraxduner

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On another note, i just got my car out because the weather is nice....I have not looked at the settings yet.... However even at low to mid volume, my rear deck area, speakers, package tray rattle something fierce. Almost unbearable. i assume the rearward facing subs are definately creating a pressure zone and relief is through the rear deck.....i have not done anything up there. when i get a chance i will hop back there and try and i figure out what is rattling.....def will have to dynamat that area....its horrible
 

scottgt500

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100% fixed now. The rear sub wires needed to be tapped for the signal NOT the rear speakers...thanks a TON for all of your help. All good now...lots of bass. Definitely worth the money spent now.

Scott
 

protraxduner

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So i have been driving the GT500 the last couple days....have NOT messed with the amp but have noticed that bass does NOT increase with the volume at about level 20....basically it peaks around 20.....This may be what some have been referring to as bass roll off or speaker protection. It would appear anyone with an aftermarket sub/amp could benefit from using forscan to disable eq. It is VERY prominent in my car...maybe because i have huge subs and about the time i think they should start hitting is when the head unit cuts them off. I am using sub signal.
 

m3incorp

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Thanks for that. I think there is a much simpler method to test with a come meter. I'm wondering why mine plays at the same level regardless of if I plug the wires into high level on the amp or used the adapter and plug into the RCA on the amp? It could very well be the amp doing it's own conversion.

Ok, as promised, I went out and measured the input voltage coming into my JM500/1 JL Audio 500 watt mono amp. The signal was originally going into the OEM B&O sub. This JL amp only has a left and right RCA inputs so I terminated the wires from the OEM sub with a left and right RCA plug.

This is how I usually determine the input voltage and if it is incorrect, then someone can explain how I should be doing it. First, I figure out the loudest I can turn the system without distortion. You can do this one of a few ways. Since I don't own an oscilloscope or a distortion device, I just did the ear test. With the sub disconnected, I used a signal generator (app on my iPhone) to produce frequencies between 100 Hz -400 Hz I listen to the tones and when it goes from sounding pure to a buzzing, I know I have reached distortion. I don't go higher in frequency than 400 Hz as I have found I reach distortion earlier in these lower frequencies than higher ones. It is not the most scientific way but I don't have fancy equipment to test with. The car stereo dealer I have used and trusted for over 30 years is now 3 hours away and if I ever get down there with the GT500 I will have them check for sure with their equipment like I have had them do in my other vehicles.

I know it makes a difference what input source you are using and I am using my iPhone 12 Pro connected to the USB input which is a constant output, not variable. With that said, the loudest I can turn the volume knob is 20. At 21, I start to hear buzzing coming out of the speakers (and no it is not plastic trim vibrating). I then turned on the sub and ran the signal generator at 60 Hz which happens to be around the loudest frequency the sub produces in it's frequency range, and I tested the voltage of the inputs going into the JL amp at 1.1 volts for each for a total of 2.2 volts. With the volume level still at 20, I adjust the JL amp input level until the clipping light just starts to blink then back down a bit. I do all of this with the remote volume control of the JL amp disconnected. The input level switch on the JL amp is set to High and the input level adjustment knob is around 1/3 up. If I were to turn the input switch to Low, the distortion light will come on even if the input level on the amp is all the way down so for this amp, it needs to be set on High.

I have been listening to the stereo now for over 6 months and it is a decent sounding system. No, it is not an awesome sounding system like I have installed in a few of my other vehicles with my favorite Focal separates and Mosconi amps but I don't drive the car all that much and when I do like to listen to the engine and exhaust more than the stereo. I have not used Forescan to disable the EQ. I have the surround sound disabled, balance is set 2 clicks to the right, fader at center, bass at center, midrange set 4 clicks to the right and treble set 5 clicks to the right. I disconnected the center speaker the day I got the car home.

I know this was more info than just the input voltage but thought I would explain more of how I tested it and have my inputs and settings set up.
 

marklboris

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Yes your amp most likely does that. Many amps today will adjust for the incoming input voltage.

Meanwhile, I am glad Scott got his sub working correctly. I talked to his installer and explained exactly what to do and sounds like he has all the bass he needs now. 😊
 

m3incorp

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When setting the amp, the usual technique is to have max bass without clipping at 3/4 volume, which is 20 on our cars. It is assumed that most people don't listen with their volume at 100%.

So i have been driving the GT500 the last couple days....have NOT messed with the amp but have noticed that bass does NOT increase with the volume at about level 20....basically it peaks around 20.....This may be what some have been referring to as bass roll off or speaker protection. It would appear anyone with an aftermarket sub/amp could benefit from using forscan to disable eq. It is VERY prominent in my car...maybe because i have huge subs and about the time i think they should start hitting is when the head unit cuts them off. I am using sub signal.
 

marklboris

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That is a good rule of thumb and like I said earlier, happens to be the setting (21) where I start to hear distortion from the test tones. Again, I was using an iPhone 12 Pro for the input and I am sure it would vary a bit depending on your source but going past 20 on the volume with my input source, is loud enough. No, it is not concert level loud but I don't want that, at least in this car.
 

protraxduner

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My ears must be shot cause at volume 20 is 'normal' listening for me and even at 30 it is not loud....to me.
 

FreePenguin

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I use JL audios method, 50hz 0 db, loaded from iTunes onto iPhone. I don’t listen too tune music over 22, it’s my strongest source. Pandora on phone (doesn’t use iPhones eq) has to be like 28 to match the same itune song on 22. I rarely go over 20

I set volume to 22x7.5=16.5 volume they recommend 3/4 of your listening volume to set gain

since I rarely listen to 22, so went to 16 instead of 17 for a little more oomph.

Turn knob up til it goes red and boom done. (New jl amps have clipping indicator on it)

my old style was using volt meter and using 2/3 listening volume and setting gains using rms, Ie. Speaker matching watts to sub Ie. If sub is rated 500 rms watts, I set the voltage accordingly.

I personally set treble, mid and bass to 0 flat. I keep the movement adjustment speed to off, and I don’t have surround/driver anymore when I disabled eq that option disappeared. I keep my iPhone eq off (same as flat) so the music plays as it was intended
 

FreePenguin

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So i have been driving the GT500 the last couple days....have NOT messed with the amp but have noticed that bass does NOT increase with the volume at about level 20....basically it peaks around 20.....This may be what some have been referring to as bass roll off or speaker protection. It would appear anyone with an aftermarket sub/amp could benefit from using forscan to disable eq. It is VERY prominent in my car...maybe because i have huge subs and about the time i think they should start hitting is when the head unit cuts them off. I am using sub signal.
Yep. That’s the bass roll off. It’s heavy roll off. Most cars have it factory.
 

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