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Subwoofer replacement options

hoot12

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Are there any replacement options for the stock subwoofer? The stock sub just doesn't cut it...for when you need some bass. :)
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hoot12

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I'll look into that. Thank you. Is the factory one a 10" or 12" I cant recall.
 

kilobravo

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BullDogs: I believe that is the same model that Mark B. pointed us to somewhere here...(I've given up trying to find stuff and bookmarks seem to slip my brain.) :-) (Correct me if I'm wrong, Mark.)

I agree, the system needs more low end for sure and I have no doubt that the model in question improves that dramatically. (Mark wouldn't have it if it didn't.) <grin>

I'd just rather boost the HP before I boost the bass. <chuckle>
 

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I was going to post this on the mod's thread but I can do it here. I installed the JLAudio Sub that Bulldogs22 posted above. Along with one of their 500 watt mono amps. Added their remote volume control and I have great sounding bass now. I have used this particular woofer in a different enclosure in my Escape but this one sounds better for some reason and I had more power going to it (750 watts).

The install did not take too long but you do or should remove the right front tire and part of the inner fender liner to gain easy access to the boot behind it to run your power wire from the inside to the battery.

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kilobravo

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Markus, you are a class act, my friend. Gorgeous install of all the components and roger on the tire and fender well for power.

..and I have great sounding bass now.
I should hope so! <smiling>

Questions..(of course)

I couldn't find a 500w monoblock on their site, just 600w and up. Did you already have that amp?

Why didn't you go with one of their subwoofer amps, not enough output?

The amp install won't work for me as I PLAN to give her a real spare tire, just don't know if it'll fit or not.
 

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FYI, you can stuff the sub area with some polyfill and it tightens it up as well. Obv. an aftermarket sub + amp is better, but the aforementioned is $10 and 10 minutes :D
 
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hoot12

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Thank you guys. All good info
 
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hoot12

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Mark, where did you pick up the signal from?
 

marklboris

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Questions..(of course)

I couldn't find a 500w monoblock on their site, just 600w and up. Did you already have that amp?

Why didn't you go with one of their subwoofer amps, not enough output?

The amp install won't work for me as I PLAN to give her a real spare tire, just don't know if it'll fit or not.
JL has several 500 watt mono subwoofer amps. This is their low end model: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...d/products/jd500-1-car-audio-amplifiers-98362. The next one is a step up and the one I got: https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...roducts/rd500-1-car-audio-rd-amplifiers-98618. It is a good workhorse and I did not need to get anything crazy as it is not like I will be in any audio competitions. Then their upper end models, and they make four more at 600 watts and above, are overkill for what I wanted. They are all subwoofer amps.

FYI, you can stuff the sub area with some polyfill and it tightens it up as well. Obv. an aftermarket sub + amp is better, but the aforementioned is $10 and 10 minutes :D
Yes you can stuff the box and I did and not only that, I covered the entire back end and sides with dynamat so the plastic box would not vibrate so much. While this helped a bit to make the bass tighter, there just isn't the volume there nor doesn't go very deep. You can however, replace the OEM speaker with a JLAudio 10W1-V4 or similar shallow 10" sub and it will make a much bigger improvement. The problem is, then you will want to add and amp to get even more volume. I decided I only wanted to do this once so when with the Stealthbox and a dedicated sub amp.

Mark, where did you pick up the signal from?
I picked up the signal from the existing wires going into the OEM sub. There are 4 wires as it is a dual voice coil speaker. There is a green and black wire to one side, yellow and purple to the other. I could have used just one side but I combined the green and yellow (both are +) and black and purple (both are -) and ran them to the input on the JL amp.
 

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Oh, and KB, there is plenty of room in the trunk area for an amp even if you add a spare tire. You can easily mount the amp under the package tray between the two speakers or even behind the Stealthbox there is room if you want to hide it. You can also mount it on the opposite side of the Stealthbox behind the trunk liner. That trunk surprisingly has lots of room.
 

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As always, Mark, mucho thanks for the in-depth answers. But, my brain doesn't get combining both voice coil inputs. Wouldn't the varying voltage affect the sub?

And roger on the StealthBox and amp info, (I got tired of clicking on "See More Products" so I didn't get a look see at all the amps. :-))

But, under the current circumstances and to minimize grief from other quarters, <smile> I think the first major chunk of change I'm gonna spend on the car specifically will be HP-related. (Although that gorgeous SA coolant tank is still nipping at my heels.) <bigger smile>

BTW, did I miss the answer to "where did you get the shock tower covers?" If so, my apologies..I'm getting more absentminded by the day, I swear.

Thanks again, Mark.

Edit: 10-4 on the trunk room and locations, Mark and thanks for confirming the spare capability. It LOOKED like I could get away with it but it was tight on the '14 and with a 20", I wasn't sure. Still gotta find a wheel to fit the front.

(I KNOW you have one, T, but I can't justify it at the moment simply for the spare. <smile>)
 

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Yes you can stuff the box and I did and not only that, I covered the entire back end with dynamat so the plastic box would not vibrate so much. While this helped a bit to make the bass tighter, there just isn't the volume there nor doesn't go very deep. You can however, replace the OEM speaker with a JLAudio 10W1-V4 or similar shallow 10" sub and it will make a much bigger improvement. The problem is, then you will want to add and amp to get even more volume. I decided I only wanted to do this once so when with the Stealthbox and a dedicated sub amp.
Yep, read your original post. For me, the 10 minute improvement correlated to the level of f****s I had about improving the SQ (and then only because we happen to have some polyfill, hahahaha ...). I'm sure it sounds great! I've done a couple of big systems, but in these last two GT convertibles, kept the audio mostly stock (just a little packing/SD material here and there).

Another quick FYI, if you haven't spent any time in the audio area - that center speaker in the front dash apparently introduces a notable amount of noise (with music), it's specifically for voice response. Some people have removed it (the speaker itself, clipped the leads) or even put a switch on it, and apparently that really cleans up the mid-upper/upper frequencies (FWIW, the folks that totally removed it said the voice feedback is still plenty clear, just not quite as centrally isolated).
 

marklboris

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Another quick FYI, if you haven't spent any time in the audio area - that center speaker in the front dash apparently introduces a notable amount of noise (with music), it's specifically for voice response. Some people have removed it (the speaker itself, clipped the leads) or even put a switch on it, and apparently that really cleans up the mid-upper/upper frequencies (FWIW, the folks that totally removed it said the voice feedback is still plenty clear, just not quite as centrally isolated).
One of the first things I did after the car came home was disconnect the front speaker. Did the same thing on the RS but it also had one of those engine sound synthesizers thingy too. I disconnect the center speaker because it messes up the imaging (what little there is in the car) and gives you more depth. The center 3" midrange is the same one that is in the doors and just combining the mids from left and right so that it gives you a strong center. I do not use the DSP in the car so there is no need to use the center speaker. There is plenty of voice coming from all the other speakers when I listen to music or use Siri or make calls. No problem there.
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