I ran my PAC down and back under the ACM. You can reach your hand over the transmission hump and have access to it. My plan is to run my toslink directly down the middle of the car and into the spare tire well.Have my PAC unit in, have a few notes.
The metal behind the dash is extremely sharp, so sharp I was trying to unplug the wire harness from the bottom unit with the CD slot(ACM) and it sliced my hand without me even knowing, just try covering it with a rag if you can.
I used a 20' toslink cable and routed it down the passenger side and to the back of the trunk along with other factory wiring before it made it to my spare well, it was just long enough i have very little extra. I had a 16' at first and it didn't work out.l
The optical out of the PAC is very "soft", my previous source feeding my dsp was analog rca. I had to go into the PAC unit and change the "minimum volume" to +10dB. I think thats a great starting point. My gain structure was way off until I adjusted that up. I suggest running a permanent micro USB from the PAC unit to the glovebox so you can adjust this later when doing your gains without having to rip apart the interior panels to get back to the PAC unit.
The remote out of *MY* PAC unit kept turning my dsp on and off when my car was off, I used it at first but ended up going back to what I was using before which works perfect, the very bottom of the passenger side footwell is a fuse panel, I'm running my remote line out of there, and have switched back to that and capped off the PAC remote out. I've seen a few other people having this issue too, not sure why but not worth my time investigating further.
Sure don’t and not gonna bother looking. I’m disconnect the tweeter wiring so no watts will be going anywhere other than the door.
Is there no wiring diagram for the subwoofer in the trunkI figured this information is kind of scattered everywhere, so I am trying to condense it all into one place to help everyone out.
If there is information that needs to be edited or added, let me know. Hopefully I will be able to edit this later to keep it up to date.
Speaker Info
Base Model (6 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
6.5" (Rear Deck)
Premium Models 200A/400A (9 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" (Rear Deck)
Premium Models w/ Shaker Audio 201A/401A (12 Speaker Configuration)
6.5" (Doors)
3.5" (Doors)
Tweeters (A Pillars)
3.5" Center Channel (In dash)
6.5" Coax (Rear Deck)
Subwoofer
Speaker Pictures (Premium Shaker Shown) - Thank you stoli!!
Amplifier Information
Base cars do not have an amplifier, all speakers are powered directly from the head unit.
Premium/Shaker cars have an amplifier in the drivers side kick panel area that is driven from line level feeds from the head unit. The center channel is "created" by the amplifier itself, not the head unit. The sub signal also seems to be artificially created as I see no wiring to suggest it comes directly from the head unit.
The subwoofer amplifier is located on the subwoofer box itself.
Wiring Information
Here are the wiring diagrams for the cars. Thank you Heinoceros.
Base radio (only shows front speakers):
Premium (including Shaker systems):
Head Unit to Amplifier
Amplifier to Speakers
Amplifier Connectors Thank you ThirtyThreePointThree and h65 for getting part numbers and the rest of this information.
These are made by Molex and can be had from Mouser.com.
34690-0160 - C4270 has the RCA-level audio and noise cancellation.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0160
34690-0161 - C2385A has most of the speaker outputs.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34690-0161
34772-0142 - C2385B has the other speakers plus 6v Remote, 12V power and ground. Mouser does not stock the 34772-0142 plug so use the 34772-0140 variant. To use this you'll need to trim the bumps off the factory end. They come off easily with a boxknife. This is easier than trimming the inside of the new connector. It won't affect its ability to lock in place with the amp or the new connector.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=34772-0140
Pre-Amp Signal Measurements - Thank you h65!
The range is 0.04 volts at 20% volume to 1.53 volts at 80% volume (and 3.1 volts at max volume) with a CD audio source. Measurement was taken from pins 7 and 8 which represent the front left signal.
12v Remote Turn-on Lead
There is one conveniently located in the trunk wiring harness near the right rear speaker. The wire you are looking for is the blue/white one.
I am basically Trying to add a aftermarket sub and amp by just taking out the stock sub in the side of the trunk I was told to tap into the existing plug , that plugs into the sub for signal to my Lc2 pro. So I believe this is it
Like these?
That works great, its how I was initially setup.
So that is the plug from the sub ? then you connected 4 wires to the tip and the the other end went to the Lc2 pro ?That works great, its how I was initially setup.
I depinned the factory sub connector and used a canare 4 conductor wire to feed my zapco LOC.
I crimped pins onto my wire, but if you dont want to go buy new pins and a crimper for them if you dont have them, just cut the subwoofer wire, and solder/shrink your wires to that. There's a spot in the fender it clips to so its not flopping around
When you get this put together could you please reply to post 32 I have in the below thread so others who lack the audio knowledge like myself can add an aftermarket amp and sub while removing the factory unit?