Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Evolvd]

Hoping someone can help me out with a quick question. I'm looking to get an 18 mustang ecoboost premium. It seems the consensus is the speakers suck on the shaker, so my question is, like what do i need to make it sounds decent im not an audiophile or anything i just want it to sound decent to good. I would need speakers a sub and an amp? sorry car audio is so confusing for me lol

If you’re not an audiophile I’d get the car first and see how it sounds to you. The shaker system isn’t horrible, but it could better. If you do decide to upgrade start with a budget and work from there. Car audio gets expensive very quickly if you’re not careful. Sometimes even simple fixes can make your stock system sound better. Sound deadening then inside of the subwoofer box and adding some poly fill will give a little tighter punch to your bass frequencies. Upgrading the door speakers would be the next logical step and can be done without adding an amp if you want to keep costs down. You can find component sets with similar ohms ratings so that your stock system doesn’t suffer any volume loss.
The sky is the limit from there.

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[darthlung37]

If you’re not an audiophile I’d get the car first and see how it sounds to you. The shaker system isn’t horrible, but it could better. If you do decide to upgrade start with a budget and work from there. Car audio gets expensive very quickly if you’re not careful. Sometimes even simple fixes can make your stock system sound better. Sound deadening then inside of the subwoofer box and adding some poly fill will give a little tighter punch to your bass frequencies. Upgrading the door speakers would be the next logical step and can be done without adding an amp if you want to keep costs down. You can find component sets with similar ohms ratings so that your stock system doesn’t suffer any volume loss.
The sky is the limit from there.

well the shaker system seems to be hard to find on the premiums used right now, so I’m thinking just getting the regular 9 speaker config and then upgrading but idk how much of a pain that is

 

[Evolvd]

well the shaker system seems to be hard to find on the premiums used right now, so I’m thinking just getting the regular 9 speaker config and then upgrading but idk how much of a pain that is

Well the tech package is more than just a shaker system and has many useful features. I’d consider that before picking a stereo setup. But, that being said, either one is upgradable. There are aftermarket solutions for each to tie into the stock system and reduce the amount of splicing required.

 

[GTP]

I started a couple of threads on how to improve the sound without spending money.
Either disconnect the center dash speaker or at least try the "surround" mode.
Fade almost all the sound to the front.
The center and rear shelf speakers are horrible, so get those quiet first.
The door speakers are actually quite good and will suddenly sound much better after doing those two things.
The 9-speaker system is lacking bass and that can only be improved by adding a subwoofer. You could repurpose the high-level rear shelf speaker cables to run a high-level-input mono or stereo sub amp and woofer.

 

[Cathul]

Tbh... i would do sound treatment on the doors and trunk first before changing the speakers.
Disable the center speaker and fade to the front was already mentioned.

If you got no sub this would be my second step. There are plenty of nice active powered subs out there that you can reuse when you upgrade the rest of the system later.
If you add a powered sub (or an amp and a sub) think about power wire routing beforehand, so you don't have to do that twice! Route the power wires in a way that you can reuse it if you add an amplifier for your front speakers later on.

Think twice, do it once.

 

[ICU812]

well the shaker system seems to be hard to find on the premiums used right now, so I’m thinking just getting the regular 9 speaker config and then upgrading but idk how much of a pain that is

If you are not an audiophile , the 12 speaker set up, is most likely fine.
Remember the 12 speaker set up has a c/d player, I don't think the 9 pod does, if that matters to you.
The stock set up is good if you have the sound faded to favor the front speakers . You will be money ahead finding a car with the 12 speaker set up, than getting the 6 speaker set up and reworking it.
The speaker numbers are misleading. Somehow they get away with listing a single speaker with a tweeter 2 speakers.
I am an audiophile with home gear, I found out long ago, going down that rabbit hole in car audio is a waste of money. All it does is make your vehicle a target of theft.
If you upgrade your stereo, Don't Show it off at cruises /shows or the internet or even your friends, let them all think it is a stock set up. More peoples cars get jacked because a "friend" tells others about the system his/her buddy has in his/her car.

 

[darthlung37]

If you are not an audiophile , the 12 speaker set up, is most likely fine.
Remember the 12 speaker set up has a c/d player, I don't think the 9 pod does, if that matters to you.
The stock set up is good if you have the sound faded to favor the front speakers . You will be money ahead finding a car with the 12 speaker set up, than getting the 6 speaker set up and reworking it.
The speaker numbers are misleading. Somehow they get away with listing a single speaker with a tweeter 2 speakers.
I am an audiophile with home gear, I found out long ago, going down that rabbit hole in car audio is a waste of money. All it does is make your vehicle a target of theft.
If you upgrade your stereo, Don't Show it off at cruises /shows or the internet or even your friends, let them all think it is a stock set up. More peoples cars get jacked because a "friend" tells others about the system his/her buddy has in his/her car.

interesting so the 9 speaker setup isn’t really 9, the problem with the shaker is finding one used lol they’re Few and far between

 

[ICU812]

interesting so the 9 speaker setup isn’t really 9, the problem with the shaker is finding one used lol they’re Few and far between

The 12 speaker isn't 12
It is onc set of 3 way seperates in the doors (counted as 6 ) 2 rear coax (counted as 4) a sub in trunk. and a center channel in dash.
When you buy speakers the fronts would be a pair of 3 way seperates, and rears a pair of coax speakers. but car oems it isa numbers game, the mopars list 18 speakers lol

 

[Evolvd]

The 12 speaker isn't 12
It is onc set of 3 way seperates in the doors (counted as 6 ) 2 rear coax (counted as 4) a sub in trunk. and a center channel in dash.
When you buy speakers the fronts would be a pair of 3 way seperates, and rears a pair of coax speakers. but car oems it isa numbers game, the mopars list 18 speakers lol

A coax is still two speakers regardless of the location for each driver.

 

[ICU812]

A coax is still two speakers regardless of the location for each driver.

Right, and my home front speaker pairs have 3 drivers each but are a PAIR of speakers, my center has 9 drivers but is ONE center speaker, the surround sound mid room speakers are 2 drivers, but a pair of speakers not 4, same with rear surround,
Again the oem vehicle brands play funk games when counting speakers.
Go buy a set/pair of 6.5" coax speakers does the box state 4 speakers or a PAIR. Same with 2 or 3 way seperates, it is a PAIR, not 4 or 6 speakers .
That type of math is as bad as the Cheap gear that claims 4000 watts amp 29.99

 

[Evolvd]

Right, and my home front speaker pairs have 3 drivers each but are a PAIR of speakers, my center has 9 drivers but is ONE center speaker, the surround sound mid room speakers are 2 drivers, but a pair of speakers not 4, same with rear surround,
Again the oem vehicle brands play funk games when counting speakers.
Go buy a set/pair of 6.5" coax speakers does the box state 4 speakers or a PAIR. Same with 2 or 3 way seperates, it is a PAIR, not 4 or 6 speakers .
That type of math is as bad as the Cheap gear that claims 4000 watts amp 29.99

You’re arguing semantics. A “pair” of Coax is still 4 speakers. It’s simplified as pair since there are two coax speakers. You’re still getting 4 speakers regardless of what’s written on the box. Same with 3 way. It’s a pair of three ways as each of the three speakers is considered “one” set.
I can’t imagine why or how it makes you so upset at their “word games” when they claim “12-speaker system”….that’s EXACTLY what you’re getting, 12 speakers. Regardless if they are stacked all on top of each other or mounted in separate locations. The only confusion this could create is people who don’t understand the simple concept that each speaker location can hold more than one speaker.

 

[ICU812]

You’re arguing semantics. A “pair” of Coax is still 4 speakers. It’s simplified as pair since there are two coax speakers. You’re still getting 4 speakers regardless of what’s written on the box. Same with 3 way. It’s a pair of three ways as each of the three speakers is considered “one” set.
I can’t imagine why or how it makes you so upset at their “word games” when they claim “12-speaker system”….that’s EXACTLY what you’re getting, 12 speakers. Regardless if they are stacked all on top of each other or mounted in separate locations. The only confusion this could create is people who don’t understand the simple concept that each speaker location can hold more than one speaker.

Whatever you say, buddy.

 

[jbeez]

Yes, it makes it sound better if you don't put in another DSP or amplifier into the equation.
But if you ever plan to replace the stock amplifier then it's not necessary to shut of the EQ in a 9- or 12-speaker setup as the ACM is only putting out front left/right and rear left/right fullrange variable line output in this case. Not highpassed, not equalized not anything as all this is done in the stock amplifier in such setups as the Forscan settings regarding the EQ only change the high output from the amplifier in these setups.

But (!) don't ever make the mistake to use a line output converter in case you got a 9- or 12-speaker system, ever!

Why someone wants to convert a high output signal when he could use a variable line output signal for aftermarket amplification is beyond my imagination.

Why convert a crap signal, probably high passed and clipping at a given volume setting while he could use a non-clipping up to volume setting 30, unaltered and flat variable line signal?

Even if you "only" have a 6-speaker system and want to use an aftermarket setup it's just using Forscan and an OBD2 adapter to reprogram the ACM to put out variable line voltage for front/rear left and right to get rid of any eq, clipping or whatever.
Better spend the money of a line output converter into a DSP of some kind and have your ACM reprogammed.

There are T-harnesses for both non- and amplified systems available that go either directly beyond the ACM or at the stock amplifier connectors, and they are way cheaper than any LOC you could possibly get.

Cathul, do you know the settings in forscan for a 2020gt 12 speaker b&o to make the acm do variable line out? I was just testing it as it sits the other day and the vol was fixed. I’m about to add a helix v eight dsp/amp and I’m trying to figure out if I’m going to use a PAC unit or if I can do this with forscan.

 

[Cathul]

B&O is using A2B-protocoll.... You need a NavTV Zen-A2B or a Pac-Audio AmpPro for this.

 

[jbeez]

B&O is using A2B-protocoll.... You need a NavTV Zen-A2B or a Pac-Audio AmpPro for this.

This should do it? I was trying to use as little gear as possible but sounds like this is a requirement.

thank you!

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