19gtMD
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What type and how do i wire that in. Any pics on this ?
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Remote turn-on should draw only a few milliamps at most.You may also need to wire a relay in, if the current draw happens to be too much for your remote source. No idea how much current you’re pulling but relays are cheap
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htmWhat type and how do i wire that in. Any pics on this ?
Yes to both. So when the remote is hooked to the sub and amp i get a steady blue light, the sub plays. But then it starts to flicker as like its not connected or under power, and while its doing that the sub doesnt play. I know its connected because when i cut the car off down to accessory mode it stays blue (powered) and the sub plays no problem. And as stated nothing is loose. Ill post a video in a secWhen you say "flicker" do you mean the LED on the amp is going on-off. Or the sound from the sub is cutting in and out?
Edit: I just realized you said you have an all-in-one amp/sub. So don't open the box to try this. I thought you had a separate amp.Yes to both. So when the remote is hooked to the sub and amp i get a steady blue light, the sub plays. But then it starts to flicker as like its not connected or under power, and while its doing that the sub doesnt play. I know its connected because when i cut the car off down to accessory mode it stays blue (powered) and the sub plays no problem. And as stated nothing is loose. Ill post a video in a sec
Before you do that... are you using the speaker level inputs or the RCA inputs? I just looked at the wiring diagram.So im going to try the pac tr-4 module. Would i be able to use the hot, ground and speaker source from the same sources i have going or should i run them all off the connectors on the driver side from the amp?
I will try thatYou should be using both + and - for your signal connection. Never use just one side of a signal source.
That might be your issue. The amp might have some signal detection scheme.