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Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

19gtMD

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What type and how do i wire that in. Any pics on this ?
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You may also need to wire a relay in, if the current draw happens to be too much for your remote source. No idea how much current you’re pulling but relays are cheap
Remote turn-on should draw only a few milliamps at most.

If all else fails use the 6V audio enable at the sub connector and a PAC-TR-4 module and skip the relay. That way the head unit can control the remote amp directly. The module boosts the 6V audio enable voltage to 12V.
 

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Oh also let me say im using the micro add a fuse currently in spot 23 inside the passenger side fuse box. As a checked the voltage it read around 13v with accessory on, and 0 when switched off. Also 13-14v with the car turned on, again 0 when completely off. So i figured that was perfect to run my remote on. Perfect crimp from the add a fuse, and i have the wires twisted at the amp and sub because i am still in trial before i make it permanent. That twisted wire shouldnt make it flicker though im sure, because it doesnt come loose at all. So i have no idea, its almost like the voltage drops below what the remote wire needs and makes it flicker.
 

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When you say "flicker" do you mean the LED on the amp is going on-off. Or the sound from the sub is cutting in and out?
 

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19gtMD

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When you say "flicker" do you mean the LED on the amp is going on-off. Or the sound from the sub is cutting in and out?
Yes to both. So when the remote is hooked to the sub and amp i get a steady blue light, the sub plays. But then it starts to flicker as like its not connected or under power, and while its doing that the sub doesnt play. I know its connected because when i cut the car off down to accessory mode it stays blue (powered) and the sub plays no problem. And as stated nothing is loose. Ill post a video in a sec
 

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dang video wont upload here at my job. Ill have to do it this afternoon at home
 

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Yes to both. So when the remote is hooked to the sub and amp i get a steady blue light, the sub plays. But then it starts to flicker as like its not connected or under power, and while its doing that the sub doesnt play. I know its connected because when i cut the car off down to accessory mode it stays blue (powered) and the sub plays no problem. And as stated nothing is loose. Ill post a video in a sec
Edit: I just realized you said you have an all-in-one amp/sub. So don't open the box to try this. I thought you had a separate amp.

Try disconnecting the subwoofer from the amp. Does the amp stay on or does it behave the same way? If it stays on, the amp might be going into a protection mode.
 
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19gtMD

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I have an all in one sub amp setup you cant separate them. It has a harness that has hot,ground, rca hookups, speaker wire, and a remote lead.

1221210919_HDR.jpg
 

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So im going to try the pac tr-4 module. Would i be able to use the hot, ground and speaker source from the same sources i have going or should i run them all off the connectors on the driver side from the amp?
 

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So im going to try the pac tr-4 module. Would i be able to use the hot, ground and speaker source from the same sources i have going or should i run them all off the connectors on the driver side from the amp?
Before you do that... are you using the speaker level inputs or the RCA inputs? I just looked at the wiring diagram.
 

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Im using the speaker level inputs because i wasnt using an LOC to use the RCA's. Im using the right rear positive as my speaker input. Should i use both + and - . I had this same system in my honda before i took it out, ran the same exact way with no issues.
 

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The whole thing works. Its the signal from the remote wire im having the issue with. Its not staying on under power.
 

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You should be using both + and - for your signal connection. Never use just one side of a signal source.

That might be your issue. The amp might have some signal detection scheme.
 

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You should be using both + and - for your signal connection. Never use just one side of a signal source.

That might be your issue. The amp might have some signal detection scheme.
I will try that
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