Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[NotMarc]

I'm kind of stumped and hoping maybe someone has some ideas. I've replaced the factory 9-speaker setup with Polk MM's front&rear and followed this post to make a RCA T-harness before the factory amp. The plan is to have a 4-channel amp for the speakers (Polk PA D4000.4) and a second one for a sub (PA D2000.2).

The problem is I've tested these amps individually and they go into protect with the RCA's connected from the HU whenever I open the door, start the car, unlock, etc. I am using the spare tire connector as a ground. Meanwhile, output from the factory amp is fine. If I plug my phone in at the footwell instead of the HU I can play music through my amp without any problems. If I connect my laptop to the T-harness RCA's through the microphone port I can play music from the headunit crisp and clear. But when the HU is connected to the amp it just wont work. I've checked all the pins to ensure nothing is shorting. I managed to get the amp to stay on once and audio from the HU was very quiet and there was a couple pops and crackles. I've even tried making a second molex connector with only pins 7&8 connected and it still throws my amps into protect. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Are you able to play a test tone at listening or max volume and then check the voltage (with a DMM) you're getting and putting into the amp (with all of the speakers disconnected)? According to Sonic Electronix, that Polk amp you listed has a max input voltage it can see before it may get unhappy (6V). If you test that input RCA voltage at higher than that number, that could be contributing to your issue. If the issue doesn't happen at near 0 volume, to me this would suggest/confirm that its due to input level.

Somebody else please let me know if I'm missing something.

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[CM010]

Are you able to play a test tone at listening or max volume and then check the voltage (with a DMM) you're getting and putting into the amp (with all of the speakers disconnected)? According to Sonic Electronix, that Polk amp you listed has a max input voltage it can see before it may get unhappy (6V). If you test that input RCA voltage at higher than that number, that could be contributing to your issue. If the issue doesn't happen at near 0 volume, to me this would suggest/confirm that its due to input level.

Somebody else please let me know if I'm missing something.

Thanks for the suggestion, it seems I'm getting a high level signal. I've measured the output at 12.5-14.5V with no real change in volume. I've checked my FORScan values for 727-01-01 and it seems to be configured correctly. I recently installed a plug and play "Tesla style" radio that retains the Sync 2 APIM and OEM cd player/AC controls. This is almost certainly the culprit and I'll have to find a way to reconfigure or use a line out converter.

 

[Cathul]

With a 9-speaker factory Radio the ACM should send out a variable low level signal, not high-level.

 

[thill444]

Yes, exactly that. RCAs from DSR1 to amp, speaker wires from amp to the harness of the DSR1.


Not really needed imho. The DSR1 should provide you a clean fullrange signal. But it doesn't hurt either to do that.

The DSR1 harness has a remote out wire, it's even labeled "Remote-Out" or something.

Question for you (or anyone else who knows). The idatalink harness has two tweeters, two fronts, two rears, and the center channel for speaker connections. I am going three way active for the front mains, does the tweeter wire from the harness carry both the tweeter and 3.5” mins? Or does the front speaker wires carry the 3.5 and 6.5’s?

 

[StangTime]

Mids and tweeters are one channel. Lower door speakers have their own channel.

 

[NotMarc]

Question for you (or anyone else who knows). The idatalink harness has two tweeters, two fronts, two rears, and the center channel for speaker connections. I am going three way active for the front mains, does the tweeter wire from the harness carry both the tweeter and 3.5” mins? Or does the front speaker wires carry the 3.5 and 6.5’s?

You want to use the tweeter wires for your 3.5. Ford calls the 3.5 a tweeter as well. You have to run a speaker wire from your aftermarket amplifier up to the a pillar for your tweeter.

 

[thill444]

You want to use the tweeter wires for your 3.5. Ford calls the 3.5 a tweeter as well. You have to run a speaker wire from your aftermarket amplifier up to the a pillar for your tweeter.

Ahhh.. So the only way to go full active is to run tweeters back to the amp. I was under the impression I could use the DSP to run 8 channels out to the amp and use the processors to split up the signals? Since the DSR1 has 8 outputs.

But what you state makes sense.

The stock tweeter must be wired into the 3.5, no? Can’t I just grab the wire there in the door and a solder a longer wire back to the amp? It seems like running wires through the doors to the A pillars could be a pain?

 

[NotMarc]

Most people that run active in this car (and others of this size) don't run rear speakers or the center channel as they can negatively impact the imaging you're trying to accomplish. So your 8 channels in the DSR1 would be adequate for the door speakers (6), and one or two for the sub channel. To answer your last question, you don't need to solder into any factory wires except for the 3.5 speaker (unless guys are using an adapter I haven't seen). Speaker adapters for the 6.5's are dirt cheap on Amazon.

The DSR1 sits between the Head unit (by way of an amp bypass harness), then out to the amplifier. All channels get run into the after market amp via RCA, then Channels 3,4,5,6 get run back up to the T Harness which will be your Left and Right door 3.5s and door woofers. The tweeters just get run from the amp direct up the side of the car. I recommend the drivers side for both of them (I ran power down the passenger side to keep them separate, which works out because the battery is on the passenger side and the stock amp is on the driver's side). No need to go through the doors. You go from trunk (I'm assuming), through the rear quarter panel trim behind the rear seat belt bolt, down behind the trim next to the drivers seat then pull the trim piece where the hood release is (use a 1/4 10mm bolt to free the clips under the little cover - check the CJ Pony Parts video for the Steeda Hood Release replacement if you're unsure). Then go straight up to the left of the headlight knob and into the A pillar. Everything pops right off very easily except that Hood release piece. It's pretty easy to get the passenger side tweeter's speaker wire to pass through from drivers footwell to the passenger footwell then up the a pillar the same way.

Check Youtube for the A pillar mounting if you've never had them off and avoid running wires in front of that airbag.

It's all pretty straight forward believe it or not.

 

[thill444]

Most people that run active in this car (and others of this size) don't run rear speakers or the center channel as they can negatively impact the imaging you're trying to accomplish. So your 8 channels in the DSR1 would be adequate for the door speakers (6), and one or two for the sub channel. To answer your last question, you don't need to solder into any factory wires except for the 3.5 speaker (unless guys are using an adapter I haven't seen). Speaker adapters for the 6.5's are dirt cheap on Amazon.

The DSR1 sits between the Head unit (by way of an amp bypass harness), then out to the amplifier. All channels get run into the after market amp via RCA, then Channels 3,4,5,6 get run back up to the T Harness which will be your Left and Right door 3.5s and door woofers. The tweeters just get run from the amp direct up the side of the car. I recommend the drivers side for both of them (I ran power down the passenger side to keep them separate, which works out because the battery is on the passenger side and the stock amp is on the driver's side). No need to go through the doors. You go from trunk (I'm assuming), through the rear quarter panel trim behind the rear seat belt bolt, down behind the trim next to the drivers seat then pull the trim piece where the hood release is (use a 1/4 10mm bolt to free the clips under the little cover - check the CJ Pony Parts video for the Steeda Hood Release replacement if you're unsure). Then go straight up to the left of the headlight knob and into the A pillar. Everything pops right off very easily except that Hood release piece. It's pretty easy to get the passenger side tweeter's speaker wire to pass through from drivers footwell to the passenger footwell then up the a pillar the same way.

Check Youtube for the A pillar mounting if you've never had them off and avoid running wires in front of that airbag.

It's all pretty straight forward believe it or not.

This is perfect. Thank you. Makes sense to run the wires from the amp directly to the tweeters in the A pillar. I am going to disable the center channel and am actually replacing the rear speakers with dual 6.5” subs that do well in an infinite baffle setup. Not a huge bass person for car audio, just need something for the 40-80hz range. So my soundstage will be the Morrel speakers in the front primarily.

And agree, I am planning on power being run on the passenger side and all speaker wire on the drivers side. Seems straight forward.

 

[NotMarc]

This is perfect. Thank you. Makes sense to run the wires from the amp directly to the tweeters in the A pillar. I am going to disable the center channel and am actually replacing the rear speakers with dual 6.5” subs that do well in an infinite baffle setup. Not a huge bass person for car audio, just need something for the 40-80hz range. So my soundstage will be the Morrel speakers in the front primarily.

And agree, I am planning on power being run on the passenger side and all speaker wire on the drivers side. Seems straight forward.

Good luck!

Let me know how it goes! I'm considering replacing the Dayton with either a DSR1 or a Helix so I'm curious to hear how yours turns out.

 

[thill444]

Good luck!

Let me know how it goes! I'm considering replacing the Dayton with either a DSR1 or a Helix so I'm curious to hear how yours turns out.

Will do. I should be able to tell you this time next week. It's been slow getting all the parts I need from Amazon (I am one of those anal people so doing soldering, Tessa tape, sound deadening).

 

[s550_kratos]

Whoever can help me I will appreciate it. 2018 GT premium with the lil subwoofer in trunk.

I intended on just small speaker upgrade with 4 channel amp for cleaner louder audio.

JBL GX302 3 1/2 75w 2 way speakers in doors and front center
Alpine 6.5 s65 s series coax 2 way in doors and rear

Boss audio ar1600.4 4 channel 1600 watt amp

I did the speaker swap myself, then I paid an audio guy for amp install
He did some tapping and splicing down by driver kick panel factory amp connections, i moved from NJ to FL before realizing intermittent issue where amp shuts off cant figure out what's causing it and its totally random, just trying to fix it for regular continuous function. I already paid one time and cant go back to installer. If you have information to help me save cash or troubleshoot thank you for your time in advance

 

[Hilfloskind]

Hey there folks. I just swapped out the factory sub on my 2018 Shaker Pro system for a second time. I originally put in an RF Punch, but it was defective. Today I installed a Pioneer sub to replace it. Now that I've swapped the sub twice, I just want to get a gut check on the wiring inside the enclosure going to the DVCs. Can someone confirm that the wires with the white stripes are the negative wires? There are red and blue wire sets, both of which have a wire with and without a white stripe.

Can someone confirm if the white striped wires are the negative wires?

Thanks!

 

[josephstef]

Hey all, general question. Ive got a NZ 2016 9 speaker Mustang, Ive added a sub &amp, added new rear deck 6.5"s and amped them.
On the front i'm using the stock amp, have changed the 3.5" on the door and centre speaker.
Overall I'm pretty happy but the door woofers tend to rattle if i have the volume turned up.
Is this due to the quality of the door 6.5? Would i get any benefit upgrading them? Looking at these JBL 600cs

Appreciate any advice.

 

[Emilbadal]

Are your 3.5”s same impedance as the stock speakers?

Hey all, general question. Ive got a NZ 2016 9 speaker Mustang, Ive added a sub &amp, added new rear deck 6.5"s and amped them.
On the front i'm using the stock amp, have changed the 3.5" on the door and centre speaker.
Overall I'm pretty happy but the door woofers tend to rattle if i have the volume turned up.
Is this due to the quality of the door 6.5? Would i get any benefit upgrading them? Looking at these JBL 600cs

Appreciate any advice.

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