Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[NotMarc]

I have a question for those that have completed a audio upgrade in our cars.

I have a 401a car with no shaker. I'm at the "finish line" after installing 2 5-channel amps, Focal 3-way front stage active, with a dsp (Dayton DSP408) trying to do the processing. I used the iDatalink Harness T Harness with RCA to Speaker adapters.

I have not yet flattened out the signal and switched between low and high level input. Would that be a reason to have weird loud noises, followed by complete silence when testing the signal? I'm waiting for my forscan adapter to come in the mail.

Thanks!

@Cathul @cheezhed

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[StangTime]

I have a question for those that have completed a audio upgrade in our cars.

I have a 401a car with no shaker. I'm at the "finish line" after installing 2 5-channel amps, Focal 3-way front stage active, with a dsp (Dayton DSP408) trying to do the processing. I used the iDatalink Harness T Harness with RCA to Speaker adapters.

I have not yet flattened out the signal and switched between low and high level input. Would that be a reason to have weird loud noises, followed by complete silence when testing the signal? I'm waiting for my forscan adapter to come in the mail.

Thanks!

@Cathul @cheezhed

What do you mean by "testing the signal"?

 

[NotMarc]

I just ran the regular stereo/bluetooth audio. I thought maybe I'd connected something wrong because I was getting the boomy noise even when

After doing some reading I'm really starting to think it's because I'm feeding the DSP the unchanged high-level signal switched into RCA's from the Amp T harness and it's possibly overwhelming the DSP but then getting pushed through the amplifier then back to the speakers.

I tried running an iPad straight to the DSP via 3.5mm to RCA's to rule out the high-level/low-level stuff, but that came through extremely quiet. So I plan to just flash the car with ForScan and pick up from there.

Sorry for the long response.

 

[StangTime]

The only thing I can suggest is to make sure you are not over driving inputs by using high level where low level is expected. If you're hearing loud noise followed by silence, the amplifiers might be going into protection mode.

 

[5.0_SD]

You are probably over-driving the inputs. I wouldn't even send a signal to a dsp, amp, or speakers without first changing the output of the HU to line level.

 

[NotMarc]

Okay will do and report back tomorrow or friday.

Thanks.

 

[rambunctious]

We have not commercialize the harness. we were busy actually launching a unique audio solution for private jets....
anyway, regaring the changes with the convertible top. One function I suspect, but have not confirmed is that the ANC (active noise cancellation) system for the ecoboost turns off when the top is lowered. I suspect it does the same when the window is opened. this prevents a potential feedback stability issue with the change in cabin characteristics.
If it is doing it for the GT, it may be a unique profile for the top down, potentially adding bass? at any rate a differenct tune. I know the auto industry will have different audio tunes for cloth or leather cabins for example because of the absorbtion differences.
Ramb

 

[dgreene]

We have not commercialize the harness. we were busy actually launching a unique audio solution for private jets....
anyway, regaring the changes with the convertible top. One function I suspect, but have not confirmed is that the ANC (active noise cancellation) system for the ecoboost turns off when the top is lowered. I suspect it does the same when the window is opened. this prevents a potential feedback stability issue with the change in cabin characteristics.
If it is doing it for the GT, it may be a unique profile for the top down, potentially adding bass? at any rate a differenct tune. I know the auto industry will have different audio tunes for cloth or leather cabins for example because of the absorbtion differences.
Ramb

Good point. I can say I haven't really noticed an EQ change when top is latched or not. All I know is that the audio pauses for some reason. Wish we knew why. So many possibilities.

 

[NotMarc]

The only thing I can suggest is to make sure you are not over driving inputs by using high level where low level is expected. If you're hearing loud noise followed by silence, the amplifiers might be going into protection mode.

You are probably over-driving the inputs. I wouldn't even send a signal to a dsp, amp, or speakers without first changing the output of the HU to line level.

So I made the changes and even verified yesterday that the Forscan writes were made. I still get a loud buzz from all speakers even when removing the DSP from the signal path. I just got a SMD DD1+ in the mail, and was going to start setting gains, but I don't know that I'm even at that point yet if I can't get proper signal from the radio back to the amps.

 

[5.0_SD]

So if it is a buzz at all times you probably have a ground loop or bad ground. Initially I said what said because of the symptom, which told me over driving sending amps into protect mode. Now what you describe sounds like a ground issue or power wires too close to signal wires.

 

[NotMarc]

So if it is a buzz at all times you probably have a ground loop or bad ground. Initially I said what said because of the symptom, which told me over driving sending amps into protect mode. Now what you describe sounds like a ground issue or power wires too close to signal wires.

You’re right. I resoldered the harness on both the input and output side thinking I got something wrong. But when testing I noticed that the noise only happens with DSP in the path. The Dayton Audio DSP has one of those stupid signal sensing remote turn ons that only works for 50% of people it seems. I’m going to run remote turn on from fuse #23 and then try to connect the DSP the old fashioned way.

 

[thill444]

Want to make sure I got this right..

I have an 18 GT350 with the 9 channel premium system. I am going with a full 3 way active front and using rear speakers as 6.5" IB subs.

I ordered a DSR1 and the proper T-Harness for my car. I also ordered dual 4 channel amps (8 channels available).

I plan on mounting the DSR1 in the existing location where the factory amp is now.

My question (probably dumb), but using the DSR1 and proper T-Harness, the only connection after the DSR1 will be to the two amps using RCA cables (RCA out from the DSR1 to RCA out on the subs)?


Then run speaker wires from the T-Harness to the amps inputs for each channel?

Do I still need Forscan to program the headunit at all with this setup?

Lastly, what about the remote out input/output.. Do I need to go from the back of the headunit to my aftermarket amps or is there a way to do this with the DSR1?

 

[Cathul]

My question (probably dumb), but using the DSR1 and proper T-Harness, the only connection after the DSR1 will be to the two amps using RCA cables (RCA out from the DSR1 to RCA out on the subs)?
Then run speaker wires from the T-Harness to the amps inputs for each channel?

Yes, exactly that. RCAs from DSR1 to amp, speaker wires from amp to the harness of the DSR1.

Do I still need Forscan to program the headunit at all with this setup?

Not really needed imho. The DSR1 should provide you a clean fullrange signal. But it doesn't hurt either to do that.

Lastly, what about the remote out input/output.. Do I need to go from the back of the headunit to my aftermarket amps or is there a way to do this with the DSR1?

The DSR1 harness has a remote out wire, it's even labeled "Remote-Out" or something.

 

[thill444]

Yes, exactly that. RCAs from DSR1 to amp, speaker wires from amp to the harness of the DSR1.


Not really needed imho. The DSR1 should provide you a clean fullrange signal. But it doesn't hurt either to do that.

The DSR1 harness has a remote out wire, it's even labeled "Remote-Out" or something.

Thank you! I see that remote out wire now after I read through the documentation. I am hoping the DRS1 install goes smoothly, on the surface it seems amazing, but I know some people had issues getting it to work. I will make sure to update to all the latest firmware for everything before I start.

 

[CM010]

I'm kind of stumped and hoping maybe someone has some ideas. I've replaced the factory 9-speaker setup with Polk MM's front&rear and followed this post to make a RCA T-harness before the factory amp. The plan is to have a 4-channel amp for the speakers (Polk PA D4000.4) and a second one for a sub (PA D2000.2).

The problem is I've tested these amps individually and they go into protect with the RCA's connected from the HU whenever I open the door, start the car, unlock, etc. I am using the spare tire connector as a ground. Meanwhile, output from the factory amp is fine. If I plug my phone in at the footwell instead of the HU I can play music through my amp without any problems. If I connect my laptop to the T-harness RCA's through the microphone port I can play music from the headunit crisp and clear. But when the HU is connected to the amp it just wont work. I've checked all the pins to ensure nothing is shorting. I managed to get the amp to stay on once and audio from the HU was very quiet and there was a couple pops and crackles. I've even tried making a second molex connector with only pins 7&8 connected and it still throws my amps into protect. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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