Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Hilfloskind]

No idea tbh. I run my system fully active with a DSP amplifier, so no passive crossovers in my system. If you have a dedicated amp for the frontstage i would put the crossovers near the amp and run the wires from there. If you got an amplified system you could get the idatalink harness for the AR and use the harness to connect your speaker wires to your stock wiring.

I'll be running off the factory 12 speaker amp. I have never installed crossovers, so I'm clueless about how and where to wire them.

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[Rash]

Technically yes, at least the tweeter is protected, but you miss the lowpass for the midrange.

I’m confused. I thought the factory midrange and tweeter are wired together and receive the same signal and the only crossover/capacitor is between them (in-line at the tweeter). So if I replace the tweeter and crossover with aftermarket tweeter and crossover in same position, how is that different?

These are the tweeters I have coming - they come with inline crossovers.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-y9ipv...etp0ADjiXNLwjs2LAXTtCZOCt0oQ77fQaAli-EALw_wcB

 

[dgreene]

For the Infinity's, you said you had to modify and solder the lead wires. I assume you cut the wires off the factory speakers and soldered them on the infinity posts, or do the infinity speakers come with wiring? I bought one from Rash recently to replace the dash speaker, but he made his own harness, so it was truly plug and play when I installed that one. This sounds quite different when installed in the doors. What modifications did you mean? Also, can you share links to the spacers and foam you used when you mounted these? I was going to put Dynamat material behind the speakers anyway, so would that still be necessary? Doesn't sound like it.

As far as the tweeters, I'm not sure if I understood correctly. Did you use the included PB tweeters or just retain the stock ones? If you used the PB ones, did you also use their included crossovers or just connect them to the existing wires in the pillar?

Thanks!

Infinities: I cut ford wires from speaker bracket and soldered new wire to speaker posts and OEM connector on bracket (be careful OEM connector is easily melted, pins will move) also postivie and negitve flip on each side make sure you mark posts before unsoldering.

Spacers were nylon spaces from my local hardware store. I puchased new screws #8 @ 7/8" i believe along with some washers to hold speaker down. Also some strong stick on foam (window seal) for space / gap.

I installed the PB tweeters to A Piller, replaced OEM units. The "crossover" is just a capacitor that acts as a passive crossover in the included connector that connects to OEM connector. The solder joints from PB were a little questionble so I fixed them and also super glued wires in place to ensure no movement.

The A pillar is a pain to get in and out TAKE YOUR TIME. Video here is helpful. The convertible has two pins that hold in sun visors. Look for information on removing them and the rest matches the video of coupe.

 

[Cathul]

I’m confused. I thought the factory midrange and tweeter are wired together and receive the same signal and the only crossover/capacitor is between them (in-line at the tweeter). So if I replace the tweeter and crossover with aftermarket tweeter and crossover in same position, how is that different?

These are the tweeters I have coming - they come with inline crossovers.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-y9ipv...etp0ADjiXNLwjs2LAXTtCZOCt0oQ77fQaAli-EALw_wcB

It might be the same, but you want to have better sound, right? Then a lowpass for the midrange is mandatory. That‘s one of the many reasons the stock system sounds not good.

 

[Rash]

I’m confused. I thought the factory midrange and tweeter are wired together and receive the same signal, and the only crossover/capacitor is between them (in-line at the tweeter). So if I replace the tweeter and crossover with aftermarket tweeter and crossover in same position, how is that different?

It might be the same, but you want to have better sound, right? Then a lowpass for the midrange is mandatory. That‘s one of the many reasons the stock system sounds not good.

But why does the mid range need a low pass filter if I cut the tweeter wire ( on a coax mid)?

 

[Cathul]

Because the midrange will play high frequencies without a lowpass, too. And this is detrimental for sound quality.

 

[dgreene]

Because the mid range will play high frequencies without a low pass, too. And this is detrimental for sound quality.

I agree, it will ad too much to the stage (double what is needed) the shaker amp/dsp is already programed to be more harsh (highs and mids) (in my opinion). Currently I have both connected, like said example above and I had to douse treble setting in ACM head unit for my ear's comfort. I don't think I will disconnect or add a crossover however if there is an opportunity I would have or purchased a non-coaxial unit for the 3.5" in doors.

 

[Rash]

I agree, it will ad too much to the stage (double what is needed) the shaker amp/dsp is already programed to be more harsh (highs and mids) (in my opinion). Currently I have both connected, like said example above and I had to douse treble setting in ACM head unit for my ear's comfort. I don't think I will disconnect or add a crossover however if there is an opportunity I would have or purchased a non-coaxial unit for the 3.5" in doors.

But again, if you snip the tweeter wire in a 3.5 coaxial, then it wouldn’t play the high frequencies correct?

 

[dgreene]

But again, if you snip the tweeter wire in a 3.5 coaxial, then it wouldn’t play the high frequencies correct?

Yes it would stop producing them, however remember that it will change the OHM value of the speaker.

 

[Rash]

Yes it would stop producing them, however remember that it will change the OHM value of the speaker.

By how much?

 

[Cathul]

But again, if you snip the tweeter wire in a 3.5 coaxial, then it wouldn’t play the high frequencies correct?

The tweeter in the coax will stop playing high frequencies, yes, but if the midrange in that coax has no lowpass filter it will still play up to 20kHz and produce cone breakups and stuff like that which are bad for sound quality. Therefor having an inline filter for the tweeter will protect it, but won’t stop the midrange from playing high frequencies.

 

[Rash]

The tweeter in the coax will stop playing high frequencies, yes, but if the midrange in that coax has no lowpass filter it will still play up to 20kHz and produce cone breakups and stuff like that which are bad for sound quality. Therefor having an inline filter for the tweeter will protect it, but won’t stop the midrange from playing high frequencies.

So you’re saying that the factory system itself will produce come breakups etc since the factory mid does not have a low pass filter.

 

[Hilfloskind]

The power base units also don't fit in the rear holder of the convertible as the promise they do (they were designed for the coupe) however a quick dremel tool to them did the trick. See photos attached.

I noticed that Crutchfield no longer shows the Powerbass L2-652s as compatible for the rears. They must have recently changed this, because I had them in my cart for a while since they showed them as compatible for the rear side panels. What did you do to make them fit with the Dremel? Did you trim the mounting rings or something? Also did you use Metra 82-5605 Speaker Mounting Brackets and Metra 72-5602 Speaker Wiring Harnesses for the install?

I'm tempted to just go ahead and buy these and do all my speakers at once instead of only the fronts, but now I'm worried I'll have to do a hack job to make these work. I was also looking for JBL GTO638s as an alternative, but they're discontinued. I want to make sure I stick to 2 ohms for the rears since going to 4 ohm will drop the output level, which is the exact opposite of my goal. The rears are virtually non-existent right now and when I FORScan the EQ flat, I figure the stock speakers may simply blow out.

 

[Cathul]

So you’re saying that the factory system itself will produce come breakups etc since the factory mid does not have a low pass filter.

Well.... that‘s the way it is and one reason the stock system isn’t good. Every speaker will suffer from cone breakup. No matter how expensive it is. That’s why you put high- and lowpass filters on drivers. More expensive components and coaxials have both on their midbass and midrange speakers. Cheap ones omit them and that’s one of the reasons they don’t sound as good when playing with a bit more volume.

 

[Hilfloskind]

Well everything is here as of today, except for the trim tools coming on Friday. Here is this weekend's plan:

Infinity Reference 3032CFX 3.5s and Powerbass L2-6C 6.5s in the front doors, Kicker 43DSC6704 6.5 coaxials in the side rear panels, Kilmat for both front and rear for sound damping, FORScan to flatten the EQ. It's gonna be a long weekend of work!

The RF Punch P3S2D-8 sub was installed in the factory enclosure last weekend and still breaking in slowly due to that there Rona. RF says 24-48 hours of play time with low bass to properly break it in. No commute to work is making this a very slow process.

Looking forward to a completely transformed system!

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