Stereo Information (Wiring, Upgrades, etc...)

[Hilfloskind]

Question for the experts:

As I noted in one of my previous posts, I am about to swap my door speakers with Powerbass component 6.5s and Infinity coax 3.5s. I am prepared to disconnect the factory tweeter since the 3.5s will be coax, but they are also 4 ohm so I'm not sure it will be necessary to even do so. I feel like the Powerbass tweeter is going to go to waste so I'm also considering installing that to replace the factory tweeter. The PB comes with crossovers, but the factory 12 speaker system is already crossed over so only high frequency signals go to the tweeters. Could I just connect the PB tweeters without the included crossovers? Is this just a waste anyway considering the 3.5s are coax?

Alternatively, Powerbass makes a 6.5 coax which I intend to install in the rear later down the road. These are also a little cheaper than the component version but slightly less sensitive (88 vs 90) and 60 watts vs 75. The factory amp doesn't put out close to either in terms of wattage, so would I be able to tell a difference in terms of bass output? I feel like buying the components are a waste since I'll likely never use the tweeters. Since the factory 6.5 door speakers are already set to only receive lower frequencies from the amp, could I just get those 6.5 coax PBs for the front and the built in tweeters would basically just do nothing in terms of sending out any perceptible sound? Even further, I could just cut the tweeter line on the 6.5 coaxials if necessary.

I'll be flattening the EQ with FORScan when I do all this, by the way.

Any advice?

TIA

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[dgreene]

It's definitely not a physics thing. Literally when you twist the latch, the audio cuts off and then comes back on with a different sound profile. It doesn't even require opening the roof all the way. The latch twist itself engages the change when it silences the audio momentarily.

I also have had this happen ... I noticed this the other day when the latch is opened the audio is shut off for a moment and then returns. I would love to know why this happens. My friend and I listened for a difference but could hear one.

I agree with some of the convo below that it was possibly meant to adjust the system to handle a higher than normal volume with the convertible top down.

 

[dgreene]

Question for the experts:

As I noted in one of my previous posts, I am about to swap my door speakers with Powerbass component 6.5s and Infinity coax 3.5s. I am prepared to disconnect the factory tweeter since the 3.5s will be coax, but they are also 4 ohm so I'm not sure it will be necessary to even do so. I feel like the Powerbass tweeter is going to go to waste so I'm also considering installing that to replace the factory tweeter. The PB comes with crossovers, but the factory 12 speaker system is already crossed over so only high frequency signals go to the tweeters. Could I just connect the PB tweeters without the included crossovers? Is this just a waste anyway considering the 3.5s are coax?

Alternatively, Powerbass makes a 6.5 coax which I intend to install in the rear later down the road. These are also a little cheaper than the component version but slightly less sensitive (88 vs 90) and 60 watts vs 75. The factory amp doesn't put out close to either in terms of wattage, so would I be able to tell a difference in terms of bass output? I feel like buying the components are a waste since I'll likely never use the tweeters. Since the factory 6.5 door speakers are already set to only receive lower frequencies from the amp, could I just get those 6.5 coax PBs for the front and the built in tweeters would basically just do nothing in terms of sending out any perceptible sound? Even further, I could just cut the tweeter line on the 6.5 coaxials if necessary.

I'll be flattening the EQ with FORScan when I do all this, by the way.

Any advice?

TIA

I purchased the power bass component set and the coaxial set. I too used that same infinity unit but had to modify and soldier the lead wires to fit. Also had to raise it about 1/4" - 1/2" with a plastic spacer to ensure connections would short out by touching metal of door frame. I also added some stick on foam to speaker bracket to seal. I also added some of this and silicon to back connections to ensure that there is no way of it shorting. (still close to door panel however see photo below) (there is just enough clearance) for mid range portion of the woofer. I checked.

The tweeters include a passive capacitor crossover so the mid frequencies will be removed from them anyways, I would install them and not just remove them.

The 3.5" units do have a tweeter as well, I have not noticed a harshness issue yet but if I do I can always remove the coax tweeter by clipping a wire, or remove the a pillar by unplugging. (PS take your time getting those a pillars off they are quite a bitch)

Remember that the 3.5" in the door and tweeter on the a pillar are on the same wire.

I also installed a 3.5" infinity in center dash. I have the extra one if you want to buy it from me :-) It fits just fine. I added some foam to keep new wires from vibrating is all.

The power base units also don't fit in the rear holder of the convertible as the promise they do (they were designed for the coupe) however a quick dremel tool to them did the trick. See photos attached.

 

[Rash]

I purchased the power bass component set and the coaxial set. I too used that same infinity unit but had to modify and soldier the lead wires to fit. Also had to raise it about 1/4" - 1/2" with a plastic spacer to ensure connections would short out by touching metal of door frame. I also added some stick on foam to speaker bracket to seal. I also added some of this and silicon to back connections to ensure that there is no way of it shorting. (still close to door panel however see photo below) (there is just enough clearance) for mid range portion of the woofer. I checked.

The tweeters include a passive capacitor crossover so the mid frequencies will be removed from them anyways, I would install them and not just remove them.

The 3.5" units do have a tweeter as well, I have not noticed a harshness issue yet but if I do I can always remove the coax tweeter by clipping a wire, or remove the a pillar by unplugging. (PS take your time getting those a pillars off they are quite a bitch)

Remember that the 3.5" in the door and tweeter on the a pillar are on the same wire.

I also installed a 3.5" infinity in center dash. I have the extra one if you want to buy it from me :-) It fits just fine. I added some foam to keep new wires from vibrating is all.

The power base units also don't fit in the rear holder of the convertible as the promise they do (they were designed for the coupe) however a quick dremel tool to them did the trick. See photos attached.

My question is - does the 3.5 door speaker receive the same high frequency signal as the pillar tweeter from the factory amp? If not, the the tweeter in the Infinity coax is useless. That was my assumption so I snipped the tweeter wire when I installed them. I hate the factory tweeters though, so if the 3.5 tweeter can be used I'll re-solder the wires. For now, I've ordered Alpine S-S10TW tweeters - they are 6 ohm, so hoping not too harsh compared to stock. I've tried 4 ohm tweeters and they were unbearable. I too bought the Powerbass component set mainly for the 2 ohm 6" door speakers, which sound great, but haven't bothered with the tweeters because they are 4 ohm.

What a-pillar tweeter is that behind the grill in your pic?

 

[Cathul]

In the Coupé the midrange and tweeter in the A-pillar are connected through one wire to the stock amplifier. The tweeter is behind the midrange crossed with a simple capacitor. So both get the same signal.

 

[Rash]

In the Coupé the midrange and tweeter in the A-pillar are connected through one wire to the stock amplifier. The tweeter is behind the midrange crossed with a simple capacitor. So both get the same signal.

So do you need to remove the capacitor to allow a 3.5 coax to get the high frequency signal?

If I use an aftermarket tweeter, sounds like I need to use a crossover - otherwise it will get the full mid and high signal, correct?

 

[Hilfloskind]

Sounds like the 3.5 and the tweeter receive the same signal, so the tweeter in the coax is getting the full signal along with the coax, Rash. Given the stock tweeter is 8 ohm and the PB is 2, it wouldn't make sense to use the PB tweeter and the Infinity coax. When I install my set, I'm going to first leave the factory tweeter in place, but be prepared to disconnect it and let the 3.5 handle highs and mids. It's probably going to have a weird soundstage otherwise.

 

[Cathul]

So do you need to remove the capacitor to allow a 3.5 coax to get the high frequency signal?

If I use an aftermarket tweeter, sounds like I need to use a crossover - otherwise it will get the full mid and high signal, correct?

In regards to the 3.5 coax, no, you don't need to remove the capacitor as it's after the midrange, not before. It is a highpass for the stock tweeter to save it from getting too low frequencies that will destroy the tweeter.
If you want to use an aftermarket tweeter f.e. from a component set, you need to rewire the tweeter. Signal into the crossover, then from the crossover over the existing wiring to the midrange and new wiring to the new tweeter.

 

[Rash]

If you want to use an aftermarket tweeter f.e. from a component set, you need to rewire the tweeter. Signal into the crossover, then from the crossover over the existing wiring to the midrange and new wiring to the new tweeter.

Can’t I just use an inline crossover for the tweeter?

 

[Hilfloskind]

I purchased the power bass component set and the coaxial set. I too used that same infinity unit but had to modify and soldier the lead wires to fit. Also had to raise it about 1/4" - 1/2" with a plastic spacer to ensure connections would short out by touching metal of door frame. I also added some stick on foam to speaker bracket to seal. I also added some of this and silicon to back connections to ensure that there is no way of it shorting. (still close to door panel however see photo below) (there is just enough clearance) for mid range portion of the woofer. I checked.

The tweeters include a passive capacitor crossover so the mid frequencies will be removed from them anyways, I would install them and not just remove them.

The 3.5" units do have a tweeter as well, I have not noticed a harshness issue yet but if I do I can always remove the coax tweeter by clipping a wire, or remove the a pillar by unplugging. (PS take your time getting those a pillars off they are quite a bitch)

Remember that the 3.5" in the door and tweeter on the a pillar are on the same wire.

I also installed a 3.5" infinity in center dash. I have the extra one if you want to buy it from me :-) It fits just fine. I added some foam to keep new wires from vibrating is all.

The power base units also don't fit in the rear holder of the convertible as the promise they do (they were designed for the coupe) however a quick dremel tool to them did the trick. See photos attached.

For the Infinity's, you said you had to modify and solder the lead wires. I assume you cut the wires off the factory speakers and soldered them on the infinity posts, or do the infinity speakers come with wiring? I bought one from Rash recently to replace the dash speaker, but he made his own harness, so it was truly plug and play when I installed that one. This sounds quite different when installed in the doors. What modifications did you mean? Also, can you share links to the spacers and foam you used when you mounted these? I was going to put Dynamat material behind the speakers anyway, so would that still be necessary? Doesn't sound like it.

As far as the tweeters, I'm not sure if I understood correctly. Did you use the included PB tweeters or just retain the stock ones? If you used the PB ones, did you also use their included crossovers or just connect them to the existing wires in the pillar?

Thanks!

 

[Cathul]

Can’t I just use an inline crossover for the tweeter?

If the component set has inline crossovers, they yes.

 

[Rash]

If the component set has inline crossovers, they yes.

So if I buy tweeters that come with inline crossovers, I'm good correct?

 

[Hilfloskind]

If one were to use the crossover supplied with the Powerbass components, how would you wire it and where would you mount them?

 

[Cathul]

So if I buy tweeters that come with inline crossovers, I'm good correct?

Technically yes, at least the tweeter is protected, but you miss the lowpass for the midrange.

 

[Cathul]

If one were to use the crossover supplied with the Powerbass components, how would you wire it and where would you mount them?

No idea tbh. I run my system fully active with a DSP amplifier, so no passive crossovers in my system. If you have a dedicated amp for the frontstage i would put the crossovers near the amp and run the wires from there. If you got an amplified system you could get the idatalink harness for the AR and use the harness to connect your speaker wires to your stock wiring.

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