Resonator delete

[njweatherman]

On my 2020 Mustang GT and now my 2023 GT, California Special with active exhaust, I went with the FORD Performance X-pipe, to keep it all FORD. I love it.
If you are having a hard time choosing between an X or H pipe, see below for a great video comparison:

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[Mikestang20]

Nice comparison.

 

[EZ-GT]

I removed my res for a Steeda X-Pipe, and never re-tuned on a dyno after, so don’t know if added any whp. However for sure the sound changed. Paired with my Roush axle back and my Whipple SC, it gave a large crackle when I let off. Almost sounded like it was a verbal tune and too loud for a daily. I later changed my axle back to an XForce Varex, and now I can open and close the muffler valves as needed.

For me being in a convertible, the loud crackle was fun when doing rips and pulls, but too much for a daily just getting groceries. But a lot of people run straight pipes, so maybe I am not the best judge of what is too loud.

 

[Joshinator99]

I removed my res for a Steeda X-Pipe, and never re-tuned on a dyno after, so don’t know if added any whp. However for sure the sound changed. Paired with my Roush axle back and my Whipple SC, it gave a large crackle when I let off. Almost sounded like it was a verbal tune and too loud for a daily. I later changed my axle back to an XForce Varex, and now I can open and close the muffler valves as needed.

For me being in a convertible, the loud crackle was fun when doing rips and pulls, but too much for a daily just getting groceries. But a lot of people run straight pipes, so maybe I am not the best judge of what is too loud.

Yeah to be honest I probably would not have done it if I didn’t have the Active Exhaust. Having the valves is tough to beat.

 

[Mikestang20]

I removed my res for a Steeda X-Pipe, and never re-tuned on a dyno after, so don’t know if added any whp. However for sure the sound changed. Paired with my Roush axle back and my Whipple SC, it gave a large crackle when I let off. Almost sounded like it was a verbal tune and too loud for a daily. I later changed my axle back to an XForce Varex, and now I can open and close the muffler valves as needed.

For me being in a convertible, the loud crackle was fun when doing rips and pulls, but too much for a daily just getting groceries. But a lot of people run straight pipes, so maybe I am not the best judge of what is too loud.

Yeah to be honest I probably would not have done it if I didn’t have the Active Exhaust. Having the valves is tough to beat.

Yeah I mostly just get groceries, spank a challenger now and then.

 

[Mikestang20]

Yeah I mostly just get groceries, spank a challenger now and then.

Thanks EZ-GT, now I want a Whipple. Jeez, you guys are a bad influence

 

[MAGS1]

I keep seeing this re: resonator deletes. It doesn't chagne the volume much, and seems to add a rattly, marbles in a can tone at high RPM. I just don't see why it's such a popular mod. Because it's cheap? I will say that exhausts have gotten ridiculously expensive especially from the big names like Borla and Corsa.

On an active exhaust car, it raises the volume up one notch (I.e. Normal sounds like Sport, Sport sounds like Track and Track is Track+). The active mufflers have a completely different and cleaner sound than the non-active cars IMO. I think that’s where people hear and say tinny sounding (the CJPP videos for the Acceletec X and H pipes illustrate this well as the car they used is non-active).

Borla and Corsa are expensive, however, in terms of quality they’re at the top (and AWE as well). All 304 stainless and the fitment is top notch from what I’ve seen. The active systems cost more because they have to build in the valves. And everything is just more expensive in general these days.

As to why a resonator delete? Fairly inexpensive, Increases volume a bit without going over the top and weight savings (for those that want/need it). It’s been shown (I think @WD Pro has a pic of the resonator cut open) that the stock resonator actually flows quite well, it just tones down the volume a bit

 

[GrabberBargeCaptain]

Fitment was fine on my Borla but i wasn't impressed by the welds. Compare it to say an HKS for a japanese car and it's not even close. Especially for what it costs.

Sounds fantastic though.

I think the tinny sound is exactly what it sounds like, something that the resonator was canceling out and now that it's removed, it goes straight through to the mufflers. I don't think it being active or not matters.

 

[MACHtobers Very Own]

I can never decide. Some videos I like H and some I like x.

)=

 

[MAGS1]

I can never decide. Some videos I like H and some I like x.

)=

I honestly don’t think there’s a wrong answer. I have an H and my dad has an X. Both sound fantastic IMO. Both are active exhaust cars too. I think my dad’s X sounds a little smoother whereas my H barks a little more, if that makes sense.

I’ve only heard a stock Mach in person but in the videos the tone sounds great with either one (volume is hard to gauge on a video for me)

 

[WD Pro]

On an active exhaust car, it raises the volume up one notch (I.e. Normal sounds like Sport, Sport sounds like Track and Track is Track+). The active mufflers have a completely different and cleaner sound than the non-active cars IMO. I think that’s where people hear and say tinny sounding (the CJPP videos for the Acceletec X and H pipes illustrate this well as the car they used is non-active).

Borla and Corsa are expensive, however, in terms of quality they’re at the top (and AWE as well). All 304 stainless and the fitment is top notch from what I’ve seen. The active systems cost more because they have to build in the valves. And everything is just more expensive in general these days.

As to why a resonator delete? Fairly inexpensive, Increases volume a bit without going over the top and weight savings (for those that want/need it). It’s been shown (I think @WD Pro has a pic of the resonator cut open) that the stock resonator actually flows quite well, it just tones down the volume a bit

Yeah I gathered quite a bit of info messing around with my exhaust and exhaust modifications last year ... lol

Here is a standard resonator that shows that it's straight through :

But for what it's worth, it does neck down a little on some of the tubing joints. Here is some info I posted on that :

Standard GT resonator does a similar thing :

• Standard pipe diameter = 2.5"
• Diameter at front manifold clamps = 2.25" (same for standard resonator and resonator deletes).
• Diameter at resonator outlet joint = 2.00" (removed with resonator delete).

WD

Here is a non active silencer :

Doesn't look so nice in there does it ...

The active is a straight through design (when the valve is open). Here is what I posted about its design :

Our euro exhausts get delivered like this :

Which looks a bit shit if your one of those people that doesn't just look at the wheel, but you are tempted to look past the wheel :

So why it was off I took the opportunity to strip it and have it metallic ceramic coated - it should keep it looking good (especially compared to 'as supplied') and it should keep about 30% of the radiated heat away from the diff without having to wrap that area.

Anyhow, the descriptions on how the box works further up this thread are perfect, but I can add a bit more info when you reference these three photos.

Note the spot welds around the box :

They hold an internal baffle plate. splitting the box into two chambers.

I will call the first smaller chamber number 1 and the second larger chamber number 2.

Chamber 1 has a condensation drain.

Here is the non valve outer exhaust pipe internals :

That's the outer box wall you can see (remember our euros have a GPF so the internals are pretty mush as clean as the day they were made).

That pipe is perforated and runs through both chambers, pretty much up to the outer box wall.

Here is the valve inner / central exhaust pipe internals :

Note it was really hard to get a good photo down there as the valve took all the flash and the focus.

By naked eye, you can see straight down it, out of the back of the box and right to the first bend in the exhaust tubing.

Like the outer pipe it's perforated and as best as my eye can make out, I think the pipe has a small gap in it that vents into chamber 1 i.e. rather than one continuous pipe, it looks like two pipes perfectly in line, but slightly separated.

So ...

Valve open = Gas is straight through both chambers with some pipe perforations.

Valve closed = Gas backs up behind the valve. (depending on the box stuffing in chamber 2) a small proportion of the gas will pass through the perforations into chamber 2 and out of the perforations into the other tailpipe. Majority of the gas will pass through the pipe separation into chamber 1, head to the back of the box, to exit the other tailpipe passing some more perforations on the way.

Hope that helps - and saves @skinnyb from taking the sawzall to his exhaust ... lol

WD

It's not hard to see how the two OE systems could sound considerably different once a resonator delete is thrown into the mix

WD

 

[gameovergt]

Thanks EZ-GT, now I want a Whipple. Jeez, you guys are a bad influence

ESS. lol

 

[EZ-GT]

Thanks EZ-GT, now I want a Whipple. Jeez, you guys are a bad influence

The best mod I made, period!

 

[HKusp]

Thanks EZ-GT, now I want a Whipple. Jeez, you guys are a bad influence

DO IT!!!!!

 

[shogun32]

I hate rasp and sharp high frequency. Steeda H pipe with borla sport is a lovely rumble but not obnoxious even at full song. I'm frankly surprised none of these systems or parts use exhaust batting.

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