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He's not sold on the ESS "hype".

I'll mention this, instead of a Centri, do an NA Godzilla swap and LOVE all that torque and HP without ANY lag at all.... https://media.giphy.com/media/v1.Y2lkPTc5MGI3NjExZTl6ZzRobXl5eTI5bGkzdmIybDNneDFjN2xsMGk5cXQ4YXRrdXhkaiZlcD12MV9pbnRlcm5hbF9naWZfYnlfaWQmY3Q9Zw/l4FGl5oHLL4vqOvV6/giphy.gif

I broke one last year, passenger side front bolt, when installing my Whipple. Heli-coil it and you'll be fine. Watch some videos on how it's done if you've never done it before.

I would get something like this...

Get some rubber washers to isolate it from the body. How do you have it secured?

There are many Whipple 3.0's and 3.8's running those fuel rails north of 1000whp, pretty "comfortably." I think it's safe to say, many of us here running Whipple rails aren't going to run out of rail before something else becomes an issue.

If you get the PCMTec software and license, I believe they give you a code with a discount on the OBDX Pro FT - Ford OBD2 J2534.

Very good!!

Here's a nice budget friendly wheel that Terry at @beefcake has on his site. Reach out to him and his guys, they are very helpful. https://www.beefcakeracing.com/vms-vwst013/ I get you on the tires. You can get a nice drag radial for the street and a set of Hoosier slicks for all out drag...

She's going to be a little ripper!! It's going to be a whole different animal when you put it back on the ground for sure. Depending on boost level you are going to want a sticky rear, probably a 17 inch so you have as much side wall wrinkle as possible. If you plan to get caught in the rain on...

He said he's doing the crank gears, so he definitely is going to be in the vicinity. I agree, he should just do it all at once.

If it breaks, you're pretty much done. It's not the worst thing in the world. Basic set of hand tools and watch a couple of YouTube videos. Taking your time, start pulling things Friday night, and you'll be buttoning it up Saturday night. If you do the ESS install too, you'll be done Sunday...

I would get with PCMtec, get their software, do a read and have them look at it. They will be able to help you out. @Rolls

Aww man...I "only" have a stage 2 and no barking seal...I want a seal...or at least an otter...I love otters....I don't want to give Juggernaut any more of my money....

Get a Gen3 block (and oil pan to add capacity), build it out to your specs with ARP hardware, pistons and rods of your choice. Massage the Gen2 heads you have, get a fuel cell in the trunk to negate the fuel starvation issues you hate on-track, and have another 100k miles of fun. For what you...

Have you tried putting in some Ceratec? https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/ceratec-question.189075/

UH oh... :D OP, I know @Cory S was running a stock (6R80 car) on his at 800+ wheel running low 9's. I think stock will be fine for you at the power level you are going to see.

I get that they are in business to make money. I also get that the car loses value as you drive it off the lot, but 125 miles, less than 30 days, and $50k is a bit of a stretch for me, personally, and I owned a Shelby GT500, currently own an '18 GT, and an '04 Teminator, so I get the "mystique"...

I wanted to put this here for reference for the OP's discovery of the taps on the OBDII port. @Skye provided it in another post earlier this week.

I would leave it as is. I have these and the "mini cat" portion is an absolute joke. But they got the 02 code to go away.