Upper Rear Shock Mounts - Broke 'em both

[Jmeo]

For those reading who have the Viking Shocks, I recommend installing bump-stops.

They are somewhat tricky to get over the top of the Viking Shafts. You can simply unthread the upper portion of the Viking, put the stop on, and re-attach the upper portion - or you can slide the stop over the shaft (this is a tight fit)

As for the bump stop itself, it is easiest to use the following bump-stop part # when using the Viking Shocks.

FR3C-5K570-A (The A part # has a larger top ID)

If you are also lowered, I recommend trimming the lower portion of the rear stop approximately 3/4".

I am working with Viking on a shaft design that makes the Bump Stop install easier, as well as some different shock bodies to help prevent bottoming out based on various ride heights. It is looking like it will be about 5-6 weeks before these are available.

Kelly,

Should I order the bump stops for the soon to be released Vikings? Or will they not need the bump stop with the redesign?

Also, will the rattling be addressed as well?

Oh, and if I should get the bump stops should I be using the part # you provided or is there some question if it should be an A or B?

Thank you,

Jaime

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[BMR Tech]

Kelly,

Should I order the bump stops for the soon to be released Vikings? Or will they not need the bump stop with the redesign?

Also, will the rattling be addressed as well?

Oh, and if I should get the bump stops should I be using the part # you provided or is there some question if it should be an A or B?

Thank you,

Jaime

If the rattling is due to the design change, then yes. We have not determined where the rattle is coming from, so the best we can do is simply make a replication of the OEM design. If it still rattles, it may be in the valving, or in an OEM part that is seeing more movement from the valving.

As for the bump stops, I would go ahead and grab the part # I listed, as they will fit the new Viking Shaft nicely. ;)

 

[Jmeo]

If the rattling is due to the design change, then yes. We have not determined where the rattle is coming from, so the best we can do is simply make a replication of the OEM design. If it still rattles, it may be in the valving, or in an OEM part that is seeing more movement from the valving.

As for the bump stops, I would go ahead and grab the part # I listed, as they will fit the new Viking Shaft nicely. ;)

Ok, will do thank you

I forgot to ask are you still planning on making a replacement upper shock mount? At this point I think 99.9% of people will scoop up a pair of them.

 

[MtnBiker]

I dont get how frpp gets away with their upgrade shocks and springs not breaking it. How did they not come across that during testing? I get the impression they do a nice bit of testing before putting stuff on the market. Maybe they dont. Hell. :shrug:

Looks like the bump stop is handling most of the load and stopping suspension travel before the shaft bottoms in the shock body. If the suspension keeps moving, i.e. no bump stop, after the shock bottoms out you get the catastrophic failure shown (the fuse effect).

 

[GTP]

I gradually read this entire thread up to this point.

It would interesting to know if Ford wants the broken parts back. And if they would provide us ANY feedback. If this happened to me, I would surely offer them the broken mounts. (My day job involves returned part failure investigation, and (hopefully) root cause determination. When parts replaced in the field don't come back to me, I can only speculate as to causes of failure.)

Second, it would be even more interesting to know if the mount design was purposely implemented as a cast piece for either cost or as a "mechanical fuse" (or both). Because it seems to me that a billet aluminum part might be stronger, but also would impart the severe load (from an accident) to the body threaded mounts before breaking. In turn this could cause distortion of the body mount, which is a MUCH bigger problem to solve than broken cast mounts.

I think I would prefer the cast mount to break instead of distorting the body. At least the springs would still be there!

 

[DarkSubRosa]

Sub'd on this.

 

[BTM]

sub'd so I remember...

 

[chrisgonzales]

fyi steeda has billet mounts avail if anyone comes across this

 

[BmacIL]

I gradually read this entire thread up to this point.

It would interesting to know if Ford wants the broken parts back. And if they would provide us ANY feedback. If this happened to me, I would surely offer them the broken mounts. (My day job involves returned part failure investigation, and (hopefully) root cause determination. When parts replaced in the field don't come back to me, I can only speculate as to causes of failure.)

Second, it would be even more interesting to know if the mount design was purposely implemented as a cast piece for either cost or as a "mechanical fuse" (or both). Because it seems to me that a billet aluminum part might be stronger, but also would impart the severe load (from an accident) to the body threaded mounts before breaking. In turn this could cause distortion of the body mount, which is a MUCH bigger problem to solve than broken cast mounts.

I think I would prefer the cast mount to break instead of distorting the body. At least the springs would still be there!

Sacrificial engineering is a real thing, and not just in case of accidents, but things like huge potholes too. At some level of jounce, the bump stop effectively becomes solid and all the load goes straight into the mount bracket. I'd rather have it break and keep the threads and body intact, too...

 

[rainmaker]

bump stops

If the rattling is due to the design change, then yes. We have not determined where the rattle is coming from, so the best we can do is simply make a replication of the OEM design. If it still rattles, it may be in the valving, or in an OEM part that is seeing more movement from the valving.

As for the bump stops, I would go ahead and grab the part # I listed, as they will fit the new Viking Shaft nicely. ;)

[MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] Kelly are you sure the part number for the rear shock bump stops is FR3C-5K570-A? I only find FR3Z-5K570-A.

Also, what Viking settings do you recommend for a centri manual car on the Hoosier 17x10-28" slicks?

 

[rainmaker]

@BMR Tech Kelly are you sure the part number for the rear shock bump stops is FR3C-5K570-A? I only find FR3Z-5K570-A.

Also, what Viking settings do you recommend for a centri manual car on the Hoosier 17x10-28" slicks?

[MENTION=8761]Jmeo[/MENTION] what part number did you order for the bump stops?? :cheers:

 

[tj@steeda]

fyi steeda has billet mounts avail if anyone comes across this

We most certainly do!

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-billet-rear-shock-mount-12mm-rear-shocks-555-8152/


http://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-billet-rear-shock-mount-10mm-rear-shocks-555-8151/

http://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-12mm-spacer-kit-billet-rear-shock-mounts-oem-aftermarket-555-8153/

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[Dominant1]

Try here:

http://www.tascaparts.com/

 

[Jmeo]

[MENTION=8761]Jmeo[/MENTION] what part number did you order for the bump stops?? :cheers:

Don't bother buying the, they are the same as the stock ones only trimmed, just trim down the ones you have now. I forget the measurements but Kelly from BMR know

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