PPF questions

[Charlemagne]

Not required. Think of it like quick detail spray, maybe with a little more protection.

I'm using exactly this kind of detailer, did it one time so far to try it, it looks perfect (on glossy PPF that is). Since it has SiO2 it only needs careful buffing with fluffy microfiber so there are no smears left. Took maybe 30 min to do the whole car and I intend to do it every 2 months or so. Detailer said with this and my low mileage the PPF will last forever.
https://www.autofinesse.com/en/ceramic-infused-gloss-enhancer


When Xpel doesn't have hydrophobic layer, I'd probably give some ceramics on it, yeah, now I understand why you guys talk about PPF+ceramics combo.
I see you have STEK PPF in USA with hydrophobic and self-healing properties in both glossy and matte versions, that looks very similar to my Magnus Pro (except for the thickness 150 μm vs 210 μm on Magnus).
https://www.stek-usa.com/dynoshield
https://www.stek-usa.com/dynomatt

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[dethmaShine]

2 bucket method wash by hand. I used Optimum no rinse. I'd avoid power washing so you don't damage the film. Waffle weave towel dry. Things wipe off the PPF pretty easily.

Actually one question - so you never power wash it seems. If so, how do you rinse after washing or you don’t and just dry off with the dry towel?

I think I found a cool place to wash it off without paying a dime. Ordering a bunch of stuff.

 

[dethmaShine]

Also - any recommendations on Adam’s vs Leno’s garage? Any other resources?

 

[Atlas1]

Also - any recommendations on Adam’s vs Leno’s garage? Any other resources?

I’ve been loyal to adams for over 15 years. I’ve had great results using their line up of products. I’ve only had a couple items that I didn’t reorder. Otherwise my cabinet is stocked with exclusively their stuff. FYI there’s probably a Black Friday discount code to use to save some money later this week. I don’t have any experience with Lenos garage to compare sorry.

 

[Zelek]

Actually one question - so you never power wash it seems. If so, how do you rinse after washing or you don’t and just dry off with the dry towel?

I think I found a cool place to wash it off without paying a dime. Ordering a bunch of stuff.

I have a power washer too. When I two bucket method wash, I rinse with a regular hose first then you use Optirinse in the bucket and towel dry right after. There is no additional rinse.

 

[Zelek]

Getting my car back tomorrow since it is done. I'll get pictures. Currently have a 101 degree fever and achy feeling all over but that won't stop me from getting it.

 

[Atlas1]

Getting my car back tomorrow since it is done. I'll get pictures. Currently have a 101 degree fever and achy feeling all over but that won't stop me from getting it.

Get your fluids and rest up! You have a big day tomorrow

 

[Zelek]

As promised, here are pictures.

Look how great the Mach 1 emblem came out:

 

[Atlas1]

As promised, here are pictures.

Look how great the Mach 1 emblem came out:

looks too nice to drive it! what did you end up doing with the hood vinyl? cut around it or covered in PPF?

 

[Zelek]

looks too nice to drive it! what did you end up doing with the hood vinyl? cut around it or covered in PPF?

Matte piece cut and put up against the gloss strip. All hand cut.

 

[LikeMike]

If you want the best protection remove the vinyl, PPF the whole hood, and reapply new vinyl. The hood graphic is cheaper than a PPF wrap and definitely cheaper than repainting the hood. You can ceramic coat vinyl to help protect it.

I consulted with one of the top wrappers in the NJ/NYC area and this was their way of doing things. Everything is removed, Decals, badges, etc and re-applied. Not sure if they understood how large the hood decal is though. I think the WORST option here is cutting around the vinyl. A wrapper who doesnt know what they are doing WILL cut through your clear coat and possibly paint, hand cutting around such a large decal. Then on top of that there is what is called shrinkage and you risk having a large enough gap between the vinyl and PPF where dirt will collect, or premature failure will occur.

Long story short the BEST option is removal, PPF, and then reapply new (or old if possible) decals, then ceramic coat the vinyl decals (or whatever else you choose to protect it), unfortunately I think the only vinyl out right now is expensive OEM but in the future they will be a tenth of the cost.

The next best, less expensive option, is to cover the decals. The only risk here is failure over the matte portion (the FMJ vs non FMJ debate, which may also be ppf material dependent). Regardless there will be a small ring of separation between the vinyl decal and PPF. It wont be that noticeable from a distance but it will be there. It will be less noticeable on oxford white, and more noticeable on shadow black.

Lastly, the cutting around thing just doesn't make sense. The vinyl, if protected, will last longer than most here will own the car before it gets wrapped around a tree or sold.

Hopefully in the future ford offers the ability to ship with the decals unapplied, the same way they are doing the splitter. Until then you should be consulting with the wrappers as they will have the most experience than anyone here. They will breakdown the pros and cons of each, give a recommendation, and leave it up to you to decide.

 

[murick]

The vinyl, if protected, will last longer than most here will own the car before it gets wrapped around a tree or sold.

I believe this is not that clear from few posts about the topic here, at least I draw an opposite conclusion. The PPF will last (much) longer than the stickers on Mach 1, and the right way to do it is cover the stickers with PPF. Which is what I plan to do. Would be interesting to discuss it in a few years.

 

[S550VIN54]

I am going with Suntek Ultra scheduled for Jan 18th and I am considering a few options My installer has 19 hrs exp so making cuts is his specialty and hiding seams.

1) partial hood cutting around decal just below vents.
2) partial hood just above the vents.
3) hood covering decal which looked good to me as far as the decal to hood transition which BTW is very descrete due to the FJG hides the line very well. I wouldn't have believed it if hadn't showed using sample piece.

My only questions do I want a glossy look over the matte decal. It would be a piece of mind as far as upkeep. I have had decals in the past specifically the 12 boss and once the swirls arrive not too much you can do about it except try to mask it best you can.

 

[cheeser]

I believe this is not that clear from few posts about the topic here, at least I draw an opposite conclusion. The PPF will last (much) longer than the stickers on Mach 1, and the right way to do it is cover the stickers with PPF. Which is what I plan to do. Would be interesting to discuss it in a few years.

Some PPF installers have access to a machine that precuts some the film…no cutting on car.

 

[LikeMike]

I believe this is not that clear from few posts about the topic here, at least I draw an opposite conclusion. The PPF will last (much) longer than the stickers on Mach 1, and the right way to do it is cover the stickers with PPF. Which is what I plan to do. Would be interesting to discuss it in a few years.

I never said the vinyl will last longer than PPF, protected vinyl will last longer than people would sell or total the car which is within 3-7 years, a top brand PPF with qualified installers will last 10 years (material wise). By then 3rd party OEM decals will exist. There's no need imho to cut around these decals so they can be swapped or to preserve their appearance. Do people here think they will be able to precisely place the new vinyl over the PPF cutout? There's a reason why pre-cut PPF that includes decal cutouts don't exist. Over or under is what most people with high end cars with decals are doing. What you are doing is not uncommon, just go through this page to know which PPF is right for your type of Matte

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