Topblissgt
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Issues like what? Been doing since 2015. No issues here
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I Bleed Ford Blue
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I don't see how the BMS could be affected since the only time the battery tender is hooked up and charging is when the car is not running or charging. The idea is to keep the battery topped off during prolonged periods of storage, not keep the BMS module happy. As I stated before, I've been doing it this way since 2017 and my car is fine, no issues.
Topblissgt
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Exactly. Ive been doing it since 2015 on my F150 and now on my 18 Mustang GT with absolutly NO ill side effects. Its just people overthinkinh stuff. The car is not running when the charger is on it and when you fire it up, the BMS starts monitoring the charge, so its no problem at all
HoosierDaddy
Well-Known Member
I am not taking a stand on negative hook up BUT if the purpose of BMS is to maximize battery life and since battery life is impacted by LOTS of factors, there is no way to conclude battery life of any specific battery was not reduced (i.e. had no issues) if BMS was bypassed.
Seems no brainer to connect negative to body if you know about BMS when connecting. Whether worth moving connection after becoming aware of BMS is worth it is another issue. Maybe the opportunity cost or chance of making a mistake doing the move isn't worth some unknown minutes/hours/days of extra battery life. Statistically, the odds of bypassing BMS while maintaining actually reducing the number of batteries an individual owner ends up buying has got to be very low. So, unless bypassing BMS means your battery dies right before you sell the car instead of right after you sell the car it makes no financial difference (to you).
Seems no brainer to connect negative to body if you know about BMS when connecting. Whether worth moving connection after becoming aware of BMS is worth it is another issue. Maybe the opportunity cost or chance of making a mistake doing the move isn't worth some unknown minutes/hours/days of extra battery life. Statistically, the odds of bypassing BMS while maintaining actually reducing the number of batteries an individual owner ends up buying has got to be very low. So, unless bypassing BMS means your battery dies right before you sell the car instead of right after you sell the car it makes no financial difference (to you).
Skye
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It's best to remove the negative cable from the battery, before starting any of this. Dropping a tool at the wrong moment can short something out, causing damage to you or the car. When connecting back up, the car is going to make all kinds of weird noises, several times, as it performs self-checks. Perform a BMS reset when done.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bms-reset-no-tools-required.151602/
Yesterday, I attached my Ford Performance battery tender for the first time, to check it out. Using alligator clamps and leaving the hood up might be alright for the weekend, but it wasn't going to work long-term. I began eyeing the fuse block, another pigtail I had with the kit and these threads.
Thank You for the insight and the inspiration. Below are two options I'm playing with. Maybe these ideas and others might help you.
Cowl: the advantage of the cowl is I can tuck it under the hood and take it out as needed. To a passerby, it's almost invisible. The disadvantage is the hood closes snug and its a water area. The cable I fabricated is sealed with heat shrink, but still.
Front: the advantage of the front is all the wiring under the hood stays away from water, sharp edges or rubbing. But the plug poking out isn't very esthetically pleasing. I considered the grill, but it's a heat area and snug fit, for best airflow. If I Sharpie out the orange it will probably be less obvious.
For now, the front headlight area.
The advantages to either solution are not having to pop the hood, being able to hock up in moments and having a visual on the tender at any time.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/bms-reset-no-tools-required.151602/
Yesterday, I attached my Ford Performance battery tender for the first time, to check it out. Using alligator clamps and leaving the hood up might be alright for the weekend, but it wasn't going to work long-term. I began eyeing the fuse block, another pigtail I had with the kit and these threads.
Thank You for the insight and the inspiration. Below are two options I'm playing with. Maybe these ideas and others might help you.
Cowl: the advantage of the cowl is I can tuck it under the hood and take it out as needed. To a passerby, it's almost invisible. The disadvantage is the hood closes snug and its a water area. The cable I fabricated is sealed with heat shrink, but still.
Front: the advantage of the front is all the wiring under the hood stays away from water, sharp edges or rubbing. But the plug poking out isn't very esthetically pleasing. I considered the grill, but it's a heat area and snug fit, for best airflow. If I Sharpie out the orange it will probably be less obvious.
For now, the front headlight area.
The advantages to either solution are not having to pop the hood, being able to hock up in moments and having a visual on the tender at any time.
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