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Need Help With Boost Setup

22Coyoti

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I need to make a decision this week for a boost setup for my 2022 Mustang Gt A10 car. I have narrowed it down to ESS G3 Setup with a 125 MM pulley BAP and gt500 injectors, or a whipple stage 2 complete kit using whipples tune. I have read all the forms and I’m having a hard time deciding on which way to go. I want to keep on stock headers and cats, i’d be happy with 600-700 whp. I’m running a drag Pack setup currently. When you look at the cost there’s not much difference once you get the tuning for the ESS. I will not be using e85, Looking for a 91/93 tune. I know the ESS is better for higher rpm but will it also help down low compared to stock? I’m worried that the ESS won’t have the power below 60mph, I know both are reliable, I just can’t make the decision. For suspension wise should I be running BMR Cradle lockouts with vertical links, or The Starter Steeda Stop the Hop. I’m looking for a daily street car that will see the track once or twice a year.
What do you guys recommend?
Your Help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in Advance.
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DougS550

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I need to make a decision this week for a boost setup for my 2022 Mustang Gt A10 car. I have narrowed it down to ESS G3 Setup with a 125 MM pulley BAP and gt500 injectors, or a whipple stage 2 complete kit using whipples tune. I have read all the forms and I’m having a hard time deciding on which way to go. I want to keep on stock headers and cats, i’d be happy with 600-700 whp. I’m running a drag Pack setup currently. When you look at the cost there’s not much difference once you get the tuning for the ESS. I will not be using e85, Looking for a 91/93 tune. I know the ESS is better for higher rpm but will it also help down low compared to stock? I’m worried that the ESS won’t have the power below 60mph, I know both are reliable, I just can’t make the decision. For suspension wise should I be running BMR Cradle lockouts with vertical links, or The Starter Steeda Stop the Hop. I’m looking for a daily street car that will see the track once or twice a year.
What do you guys recommend?
Your Help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in Advance.
I would recommend searching this forum for this discussion been discussed ALOT!!. ESS would be the easiest route and lower in cost. It just depends what you are expecting and what are your end goals. Goid Luck
 

Wolfys11

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On auto setup, all is great for boost. Ess is cheaper and louder for autos
 

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CrackedHorn

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Roll racing type speed ? Ess

20-80mph? Whipple

Neither is bad. Centri is easy to control on the street
 
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22Coyoti

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I would recommend searching this forum for this discussion been discussed ALOT!!. ESS would be the easiest route and lower in cost. It just depends what you are expecting and what are your end goals. Goid Luck
Thank you, Much appreciated
 

TonyT930

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I need to make a decision this week for a boost setup for my 2022 Mustang Gt A10 car. I have narrowed it down to ESS G3 Setup with a 125 MM pulley BAP and gt500 injectors, or a whipple stage 2 complete kit using whipples tune. I have read all the forms and I’m having a hard time deciding on which way to go. I want to keep on stock headers and cats, i’d be happy with 600-700 whp. I’m running a drag Pack setup currently. When you look at the cost there’s not much difference once you get the tuning for the ESS. I will not be using e85, Looking for a 91/93 tune. I know the ESS is better for higher rpm but will it also help down low compared to stock? I’m worried that the ESS won’t have the power below 60mph, I know both are reliable, I just can’t make the decision. For suspension wise should I be running BMR Cradle lockouts with vertical links, or The Starter Steeda Stop the Hop. I’m looking for a daily street car that will see the track once or twice a year.
What do you guys recommend?
Your Help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in Advance.
ESS will be easier to control on the street and easier on the transmission, rear end, and axles.
 
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daSNAK3

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Stop the hop works for my G3 w/ 100mm pulley.
 

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engineermike

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I know the ESS is better for higher rpm….
They’re actually about even up top.

We’ve proven capable of arguing technical aspects for days at a time, but everyone seems to agree the pd makes more low and mid rpm torque than the centrif. This part is owner-preference. Personally, I feel like the stock coyote is lacking torque and the pd really fills in what was missing. A pd naturally augments a high-reving dohc engine's torque curve, whereas a centrif doesn’t help it much in the range where it’s already weak. Personally, I like the pedal response and want it to “feel” like a massive big block, and have made a bunch of changes to increase part throttle low rpm torque even further.

I also don’t believe anyone who says the low/mid “hit” of a pd is uncontrollable has ever actually driven one.

Furthermore, you can use tuning to give a pd the exact same torque curve as a centrif if you like (but not vice versa). No one seems to do this, though.
 
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22Coyoti

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They’re actually about even up top.

We’ve proven capable of arguing technical aspects for days at a time, but everyone seems to agree the pd makes more low and mid rpm torque than the centrif. This part is owner-preference. Personally, I feel like the stock coyote is lacking torque and the pd really fills in what was missing. A pd naturally augments a high-reving dohc engine's torque curve, whereas a centrif doesn’t help it much in the range where it’s already weak.

I also don’t believe anyone who says the low/mid “hit” of a pd is uncontrollable has ever actually driven one.

Furthermore, you can use tuning to give a pd the exact same torque curve as a centrif if you like (but not vice versa). No one seems to do this, though.
Thank You for your detailed Response
 

robvas

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I also don’t believe anyone who says the low/mid “hit” of a pd is uncontrollable has ever actually driven one.

Furthermore, you can use tuning to give a pd the exact same torque curve as a centrif if you like (but not vice versa). No one seems to do this, though.
Can you really turn it down to basically stock levels of torque on the low end?
 

DougS550

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They’re actually about even up top.

We’ve proven capable of arguing technical aspects for days at a time, but everyone seems to agree the pd makes more low and mid rpm torque than the centrif. This part is owner-preference. Personally, I feel like the stock coyote is lacking torque and the pd really fills in what was missing. A pd naturally augments a high-reving dohc engine's torque curve, whereas a centrif doesn’t help it much in the range where it’s already weak. Personally, I like the pedal response and want it to “feel” like a massive big block, and have made a bunch of changes to increase part throttle low rpm torque even further.

I also don’t believe anyone who says the low/mid “hit” of a pd is uncontrollable has ever actually driven one.

Furthermore, you can use tuning to give a pd the exact same torque curve as a centrif if you like (but not vice versa). No one seems to do this, though.
I agree a PD at 650-700 with Sticky tires is totally manageable with a little common and respect since. Lol. But, Boosting around 16 lbs on a Whipple is challenging to say the least and takes a little more common sense and respect. But I choose the PD because I wanted unbridled Instant power. Either way, they all satisfy your "Need For Speed"!!
 

engineermike

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Can you really turn it down to basically stock levels of torque on the low end?
Absolutely. You can shape the torque curve however you want it.

In my Roush truck, I have 3 torque curves programmed in. One is related to flex fuel, limiting it to about 10 psi when it learns gasoline, one is for heavy or long-distance towing where I’ve limited it to the stock torque curve and shift points, and finally the unlimited mode for learned ethanol and normal, manual, or sport modes. You can also shape any of them to ramp torque up, down, flat, torque by gear, or whatever pleases you.
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