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I keep my quiet mode from 12-12, so 24/7. All my cold starts are in quiet mode and car stays in quiet mode until i switch my drive mode to my mode or other which changes the exhaust to whatever the preset is, in my case track mode

Yes but for someone trying to get something in between, i think rear springs are more important than fronts for drag Having all 4 drag springs still gets decent handling though

You could swap the rear springs to steeda or bmr drag springs, they make minimum drop i believe, imo they help a ton for street

What springs are you running? Stock? Ive got stock shocks with bmr 1” drop drag springs, i find that they do a lot for just being springs for traction In curves, im sure track springs would do better, but the drag springs seem to do just fine You can also always only do rear drag springs and...

Or just budget in a used motor, they go for a few grand. Nothing major if you get the car for so cheap

Worst case its an electrical issue youll never find, which engine work wont help On the other hand, 3k is nothing for any ecoboost stang. Its probably something stupid, but it could be a pain in the ass. Just be aware youll have to do quite some diag, otherwise go for it while you can

Ah, still, the last gear typically isnt meant for wot racing and will feel slow, and in general if your hurting for more power then get more power. If your on a mild setup, pulley down

Up the boost is the typical approach to what sounds like your problem. Where are you in 6th driving wot? Most people barely get into 5th while racing 6th is a double overdrive gear meant for highway driving, maybe look into a tranny swap or a 6th gear swap

Do 1050s on gen3 support 900whp on e85? I thought they did with supplemental di

This^ However i usually hear the 1050s are worth it in every time i hear this question

Let us know his responses, i am likely going this route over summer with his system as well

Theyre talking about exhaust wise, turbos quieting the exhaust down when not in boost

Not gonna lie, your post of 3000rpm up doesnt make sense to me either. 3000rpm is almost the middle point of the rpms, kinda useless data. Im sure most dont dyno lower, but then why post data that doesnt show any relevance? Even on your dyno, 3000rpm, your data shows less than double, not...

15% gain is a matter of perspective. 15% of 1000? Alot 15% of 300? Thats 45 torque, which maybe is alot to standards of N/A, but to standards of boost, a single turbo makes more at this rpm…

Based off my car, until 3000rpm, which i consider below that low rpm, the car feels stock, as well as has under 1 psi of boost. Are you really trying to argue +20torque at 2500rpm is “more than stock”? Thats negligable gains, losing 20lbs of fat makes a bigger difference

Is this you trying to say centri makes low end torque?

I never said a whipple was a bad choice nor did i say i didnt like it. With my goals of 900whp, a whipple doesnt fit. But the point of a whipple being a lot harder to drive without driving into a ditch is true. Your anecdotal evidence is just showing you being a good driver, not everyone boosted...

Its not about one on one racing. Its about how the driver plans to drive and wants to have their car work. Some like to floor it and have it work, some like the car to burn rubber through 6th gear. I personally like something in between, something that wont kill me but i stillneed to respect

My 675whp setup is doing fine currently on all seasons, and i plan on using 200w tires instead of radials But hey when i get there we will see I just hate the idea of slicks with rain

Your wife is driving the car easy to get groceries. The op is driving the car spiritedly, two different scenarios. The point of not having or having power has nothing to do when you dont ever press the gas pedal. And yes you can tame the whipple down low to make it comparable to a centri, but...